My Audi A6 didn't do that at 125mph... Nor did my A4 Avant at 135mph...

peanutbob wrote:

My Audi A6 didn't do that at 125mph... Nor did my A4 Avant at 135mph...

Tut tut Do any of the above weigh in at 2.5 ton

Used to be able to get the discs on the D3 glowing on a Minehead run up the Black Cat from Tiverton, the finish on the wheels was basicaly a mix of burnt in pad dust and iron fillings from the discs, commuting with DSC off and TR in sand mode to make the go... Thats half the reason I went for the XF, but that ended up being mega heavy on tyres and brakes, pads @ 15k and tyres in less time. 08 2.7 RRS "S"
Td5 110......very modified
RS 5
Kawasaki ZX12R me, it's quick !

Had exactly same problem on XF, rear pads in 12000 miles, never raplaced rear pads before 35000 on anything else!

Update...

Determined to find the problem I resorted to a little process of elimination.

This morning I drove normally and then tested the disc temps, 45 degrees on normal rear, 140 degrees on the problem one.

Once the temp had dropped I stuck the car in N, chocked the front wheels and stood the back end on axle stands.

Before I removed the wheels, I compared the free running ability of both by spinning by hand. The 'hot' one was definitely being held back.

I remove the wheel, took away and tied up whole caliper and replaced wheel. Hey presto, binding had gone- result I could now eliminate the EPB.

I removed the pads and VERY carefully allowed the cylinder to n extend as far as I dared. As I did I saw a small tear in the rubber gaiter. I pulled back the gaiter and there was hardly anything on the cylinder walls, but a little gunk. I used a very light wet & dry and polished the cylinder. Unfortunately I didn't have the option to replace the gaiter or caliper, so I will come back to it.

Put back the caliper and lubricated pins etc.

Back on car and road tested - pow!! - they are both back to running at normal temp -

I can only image that there must be more 'gunk' lower down on the cylinder. but for now I have found the culprit and managed to release the sticking.

I'm just disappointed I missed the tear the first time, it was caught up in the folds when retracted.

Thanks to all your comments and thoughts, I hope others can learn from this.

PS, if anyone needs a really good Brake Bible I downloaded one of the disco3 site.

Cheers

Glad you got it sorted, and thanks for the update

Good one ! at least it kept several hundred quid from those we choose to keep in ungainfull employment, I shall hazard a guess that everything was bone dry and rock hard ! 08 2.7 RRS "S"
Td5 110......very modified
RS 5
Kawasaki ZX12R me, it's quick !

Bone dry, but not so rock hard (only a matter of time though had I have left it longer.

Ran a little brake fluid around the outer piston wall before pulling gaiter back up. Hopefully it will buy me a couple of weeks until I get time to replace the seals or caliper, depending on how it looks inside.

I'm hoping that by using a little care I should be able to remove / replace the caliper and get away with a minor bleed on just this corner - sound feasible??

It is possible to disconnect the calliper from the system by gently clamping the hose, I'd need to consult my Oracle on the method for you to use to re bleed, in some instances the ABS can privide the motive power to bleed through, I've achieved = results by pulling fluid through with the pedal pressed down. 08 2.7 RRS "S"
Td5 110......very modified
RS 5
Kawasaki ZX12R me, it's quick !

tornado34 wrote:

Update...

Determined to find the problem I resorted to a little process of elimination.

This morning I drove normally and then tested the disc temps, 45 degrees on normal rear, 140 degrees on the problem one.

Once the temp had dropped I stuck the car in N, chocked the front wheels and stood the back end on axle stands.

Before I removed the wheels, I compared the free running ability of both by spinning by hand. The 'hot' one was definitely being held back.

I remove the wheel, took away and tied up whole caliper and replaced wheel. Hey presto, binding had gone- result I could now eliminate the EPB.

I removed the pads and VERY carefully allowed the cylinder to n extend as far as I dared. As I did I saw a small tear in the rubber gaiter. I pulled back the gaiter and there was hardly anything on the cylinder walls, but a little gunk. I used a very light wet & dry and polished the cylinder. Unfortunately I didn't have the option to replace the gaiter or caliper, so I will come back to it.

Put back the caliper and lubricated pins etc.

Back on car and road tested - pow!! - they are both back to running at normal temp -

I can only image that there must be more 'gunk' lower down on the cylinder. but for now I have found the culprit and managed to release the sticking.

I'm just disappointed I missed the tear the first time, it was caught up in the folds when retracted.

Thanks to all your comments and thoughts, I hope others can learn from this.

PS, if anyone needs a really good Brake Bible I downloaded one of the disco3 site.

Cheers

so ive replaced the caliper and everything seems ok and moving freely, the caliper was badly coroded, now im having a mare trying to bleed the brakes, they feel very spongey can anyone advise

What method are you using to bleed the brakes - the old-fashioned manual way? The bleed nipples tend to allow air back in via the loose-fitting threads using the manual method of pumping the pedal and opening/closing the bleed nipple.

You achieve better results by sealing the threads with teflon tape (the plumber's stuff).

Much better to pressure bleed using a Sealey pressure bleeder or Gunson Eezi-bleed. 2008 MY Java Black TDV8 HSE

ive been doing it the old way and im getting the fluid through ok, im loosing fluid through the blled nipple thread on the new caliper when im bleeding that one, ill get some thread tape on it to see if that will help ill have another go tomorrow.

cheers paddi

Get hold of a decent pressure bleeder. That'll sort it. Or if you're feeling industrious, make one from an old fuel pump and a 5 litre oil can like I did

cheers guys ive sussed it with a bit of help from bodsy, ive fitted a nearside caliper to the offside so it will never bleed as the nipple is at the bottom, didnt realise it was the nearside when i took it out the box, so ive a new one coming and ill change them both.