Hi all,

Bit of an issue with a customers RR sport thats been left with me, I went out to it last night to move it into the workshop and all the dash lights were flashing away at me. All flickering at once, kind of pulsing with the key in the RUN position. If you unlock the car, sit in it and press the power to the radio it will sometimes say "Vehicle Fault, System shutting down", this is the only display on the car that is currently working .

Remove key and not a sausage.

Shut all doors, put charger on it thinking battery and come to it this morning.

the battery is not taking any more charge which is nice, but the problem persists. If you arm the alarm whilst sat in the car, and then try to start it, you can SOMETIMES fool it into thinking it's ok, and it will start.

As the car is running slowly different systems come back online, with the dashboard being the last along with the EOBD port.

My Scanner (Snap-on Solus Pro) brings up faults in the transmission module U0128, U0155 and U0126, which are all lack of communication with EPB, Instruments and Steering angle sensor. There is also a recurring fault found in the ABS module U0128, which is the EPB one.

Atm I'm a bit flumaxed by it, we did a preliminary of the wiring on the car yesterday after it was dropped off (having a subwoofer upgrade). which involved removing all the panels from the passenger side of the car from front to back, a little moving of the wiring there and also removing the battery. I must admit noticing a message on the radio yesterday when I set the car to access height before doing any of the work. I cannot 100% be sure but I think it was the "Vehicle Fault, System Shutting down" one mentioned above.

Also may be of relivance is that when you lock or unlock the car the side lights sort of flicker into life, as they flicker a buzzing (like a relay contacts bouncing) can be heard from the fusebox area, I have tried removing all noticable relays but none have done anything of any real merrit. Whilst this buzzing happens the fuses relevant for side lights show a flickering between 12v and ground.

Any help would be greatly appriciated as this is on of my better customers who I really do not want to upset.

Many Thanks


Daniel

I would check what else has ben done regarding mods before you got hold of this car. Have you tried a soft re-set? you do this by locking, unlocking, locking, unlocking using the remote key. 2005 Zambezi TDV6 - Gone but not forgotten
2009 Alaska TDV8 - Gone and much missed.



WINNER - 2009 �Idler Of The Year� Award
Runner Up - 2009 �Just Doing What It�s Designed To Do� Award


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The car is standard other than a tracker which is very badly fitted under the passenger dash (I have temp removed this to get it out of the question.

I'm wondering if it could be an issue regarding one of the HSCAN or the MSCAN systems, out of interest what colour wires are these on the RRS?

What year and model RRS?

2006 2.7 TDV6

it takes ALOT of faffing to the get the engine going, will ONLY start if good voltage at battery (circa 13v)

with the engine running, no lights on etc. the dash guages and backlighting for the LCD's flickers on and off at a rate of about 1 flash a second. If you pick the revs up to about 1200rpm it steadys and works as usual except error messages for the suspension etc. If you rev it hard, so that the turbo's really start doing their thing then the dash goes back to being flickery.
Same happens when you rev it, take your foot off the throttle, during the "no throttle" time the gauges flicker.

voltage when on idle is around 13.7-14v but when turned off and surface charge taken off the battery reads around 12.3-12.5 volts which indicates a weak battery to me.. So try the battery from my van (a 019) and it's the same. if you can sit the pedal steady at 1200rpm it's all good but it'll drink fuel like that and obviously isn't much cop with the customer

The batteries have been responsible for a LOT of these types of faults - maybe a good place to start as the age fits - My first RRS wasn't much over a year old when it needed a new battery

does it have to have a specific model like some other cars or will any that matches the output/dimensions etc do the trick?

Alternator maybe.....

I'm gunna get a 019 battery tomorrow, and see how it takes to it, as if the alternator is flattening the battery that badly then a new battery should be on the cards anyway.

When people reconnect their battery does theirs spark much?

Cheers

Dan

It shouldn't without load enabled

Has to be a short or partial short to earth(bodywork) I would think, unplug bits or pull fuses one at a time till the current drag goes. Works for me on the lifts I fix (sometimes )

new battery fitted, rear number plate light bulb changed.

after a couple of locks/unlocks the car started. It has three lights on the dashboard, which according to the manual are for Suspension (amber), DSC/ETC (amber) and Brakes (amber)

I plugged in my Solus which revealed nothing much other than communication faults, borrowed a friends Launch and it came up with a few for the ride height control module.

C1A37 front cross-link valve
C1A38 rear cross-link valve
C1A24 no temperature increase when compressor requested
C1A03 front left height sensor
C1A04 front right height sensor
C1A05 rear left height sensor
C1A06 rear right height sensor
U0122 Lost communication with vehicle dynamics control module
U0416 Invalid data received from vehicle dynamics control module
U0155 Lost communication with instrument cluster control module
U0100 Lost communication with engine control module prowertrain control module
U0126 Lost communication with steering angle sensor module
U0101 Lost communication with transmission control module
U0102 Lost communication with transfer case control module
U1A13 Lost communication with all terrain control module
C1A07 Cross Articulation
U0136 Lost communication with differential control module-rear
U1A14 CAN initialisation failure
U2000 Motor temperature
C1130 Air spring air supply
U0434 Invalid data received from active roll control module (active stabilization system)
C1139 [0, 0,51,39], Please refer to relevant technical manual
C1138 Access switch
C113A [0, 0,51,3a] Please refer to relevant technical manual

it also brought up at least one fault per module regarding software versions, and one where a module had incorrect vehicle VIN data.

it also came with some interesting faults to do with the yaw rate sensor

C1A98 Yaw rate sesnor circuit
C1A97 Lateral Accelerometer circuit

on the live data the car thought it was pulling 292g... which was slightly worrying.

I've also noticed that the vehicle is sitting leaning to the passenger side, with the passenger side at access height and the drivers side at normal/raised height. this does not change with driving where the car feels asif it is riding on it's bumb stops.

I've got a feeling that it's got to be a software fault, he said he's had the message "vehicle lean during corners" or soemthing to that effect, but when left the car reverts back to normal... just my luck it's out of warrenty as well.

Isn't there a way of clearing fault codes that maybe introduced by a bad battery level - valid faults would then re report ?

yes, these procedures have been carried out, which have removed all the invalid codes regarding voltage levels etc. the codes above are re-accuring faults.

ardler_dan wrote:

yes, these procedures have been carried out, which have removed all the invalid codes regarding voltage levels etc. the codes above are re-accuring faults.