Thanks Steve and Paul G for sharing your knowledge with us.

As one who wants to install an upgraded sub-woofer your posts are are great help and supply a good mix of parts supply and installation data .

ryanoz wrote:

stephenw wrote:

Ryanoz, I'm sorry to hear that your installation did not work too well. Perhaps it was a combination still utilising the high level outputs of the HK amp into LC6 (isn't it just a big variable resistor) and them amplified again into the pioneer sub.
Steve

No this has nothing to do with it, as I discussed in my thread the sound quality of the sub in the box is fabulous. The distortion and rattling is caused from installing a powerful sub in the factory tailgate location.

On the light side, maybe North Americans (yes I'm married to one, bit further north lets say) should stop trying to break SPL records and start listening to music. You'd be surprised what you can actually hear at normal listening levels with quality gear installed correctly

mobile fidelity
agreed

mobile fidelity wrote:

On the light side, maybe North Americans (yes I'm married to one, bit further north lets say) should stop trying to break SPL records and start listening to music. You'd be surprised what you can actually hear at normal listening levels with quality gear installed correctly

Very intelligent response, since we all know that this certainly is a regional issue.  

mobile fidelity wrote:

On the light side, maybe North Americans (yes I'm married to one, bit further north lets say) should stop trying to break SPL records and start listening to music. You'd be surprised what you can actually hear at normal listening levels with quality gear installed correctly

On the even lighter side, maybe you should be more specific about who you are talking about instead of inferring that we, Americans, are all the same. You'd be suprised how we, "music blasting" Americans, dont consider all Australians "crocodile hunters"


 James A. Cadet

07 Range Rover Sport S/C
Chawton White

Sorry, I can't resist. Anyone seen Clarkson's The Good, the Bad and the Ugly. I particularly like the first five minutes and the Las Vagas street interviews. Also, it does have a bit on Range Rovers so that I can claim it's on topic.

http://www.mininova.org/tor/480021 or http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPGKOvHtT6k

Steve

Ps To quote Michael J Dundee: "Imagine seven million people all wanting to live together. Yeah, New York must be the friendliest place on earth"  RRS TDV6 MY07 gone.
RRS TDV6 MY10 just arrived!

1º wrote:

mobile fidelity wrote:

On the light side, maybe North Americans (yes I'm married to one, bit further north lets say) should stop trying to break SPL records and start listening to music. You'd be surprised what you can actually hear at normal listening levels with quality gear installed correctly

On the even lighter side, maybe you should be more specific about who you are talking about instead of inferring that we, Americans, are all the same. You'd be suprised how we, "music blasting" Americans, dont consider all Australians "crocodile hunters"

Nor do we have kangaroo's living in our back yards, the most commonly asked question by north americans

mobile fidelity wrote:

1º wrote:

mobile fidelity wrote:

On the light side, maybe North Americans (yes I'm married to one, bit further north lets say) should stop trying to break SPL records and start listening to music. You'd be surprised what you can actually hear at normal listening levels with quality gear installed correctly

On the even lighter side, maybe you should be more specific about who you are talking about instead of inferring that we, Americans, are all the same. You'd be suprised how we, "music blasting" Americans, dont consider all Australians "crocodile hunters"

Nor do we have kangaroo's living in our back yards, the most commonly asked question by north americans

what do you expect, it was in "Crocodile Dundee"  James A. Cadet

07 Range Rover Sport S/C
Chawton White

Hello again Gents,

My business partner just alerted me to ongoing posts in this thread - including a suggestion that any appreciation of quality may be a regional thing. While Dundee and Irwin (RIP) may have presented the iconic global image of our lifestyle downunder, reality for the vast majority of we city-dwelling Aussies is just a little bit different. It's you tourists who seem to be cluttering up the outback, but we love you anyway!

On topic, it was physicists in this country who defined the engineering numbers that enable the world to predict louspeaker and subwoofer responses. They're called Thiele/Small Parameters, and yes Ryanoz, we've used them here for decades to design and build reasonably accurate, phase-coherent subwoofer systems for cars. We tend to favour a more 'critically damped' low-Q box alignment for less group delay - how about you?

Techno-babble aside, of course there are side-effects to mounting any subwoofer in the leaky and resonant airspace that the RRS tailgate provides (or any similar application for that matter) as Ryanoz suggests. But if you use a moderately high-Q 'free-air' type driver and a tone sweep generator to identify specific rattles and damp those items or panels accordingly with Dynamat or whatever, you can achieve a quite reasonable result at modest cost, as I believe we showed in Stephen's RRS. And it only took a few hours.

Would I do the same in my own car? No - I would probably also stuff about for days/weeks/months making a moulded rigid fibreglass enclosure to the exact volume specified for the woofer and my target 'Q'. Would the improvement in bass quality justify that time, effort and cost (even with our facilities and at the right 'insider' prices)? Of course not. The sub is still too far away from the listening position to allow in-phase response with the front stage. So I'd also need sophisticated signal processing with extensive time correction, perhaps to 20 milliseconds or more, so that means an AlpineF#1Status processor or similar at several thousand dollars.

Fact is, truly great car sound is a constant quest for those of us infected with the bug - every car has its own unique acoustical properties and every solution presents more challenges. There are committed enthusiasts all over the world whose systems are worth more than their cars, yet very few reach real sonic nirvana. It's fun trying and sublime when you get close, but for most mere mortals a good-quality subwoofer, correctly installed in the damped tailgate of that superb new Range Rover and driven with a decent amp can be pretty damned enjoyable. It is all about the music, isn't it?

Feel free to critique & kindest regards, Paul G
Precision Car Audio Engineering
66 Planthurst Road, Carlton (Sydney)
NSW 2218, Australia
T: +61 2 9547 1574

Fantastic job, Stephen, this is exactly what I am going to do.
I was lookig for infos on how to do it, and eventually I found them in your post ... Great!!

Some questions, precising that I will have the work done by a professional installer:
- since you moved the OEM system in the boot, did you have to extend the original cables?
- did you locate it at the right or the left?
- I assume this unit is quite thick .. when you dismounted it, did you get rid of some parts to let it be thinner?
If positive, which are the parts that can be detached?
- was it difficult to connect, at the same time, both the OEM and the after market unit?
- what about the harman kardon system? does it have an amplifier? If posistive, did you use it for the new radio/navi, or you just left it with the old unit, installing a brand new amplifier?
-As for the steering wheel commands, provided that thay command also the other infos in the general system (I do not have the car yet, but this is what I understood from your post), do you still have the chance to manage also the new radio stuff (volume, frequency, etc)? If positive, did you have to buy an adapter?

Apologise for the number of questions .. maybe some of them have already been answered in the posts, but probably i lost them (because of the different language ).

Thanks a lot for your kind answers.
Ciao from Italy.
Gianluca

stephenw wrote:

All, I've been just sitting on the side of this forum for a while now, gathering info about the RRS. Ours was delivered a couple of weeks back and I just love it. Last week, I started on changing the audio system. Basically, I wasn't going to pay the huge amounts LR was going to charge to have a proper Sat Nav fitted together with the very expensive map updates.

What I have ended up with is much more capability and flexibility than the factory system for less cost than the factory system. When finished I will have a Sat Nav, DVD player, TV tuner, HDD Media Player (Divx Movies etc), rear camera and front/side camera. The project is not finished yet as can be shown by the missing facia. Also the front camera is yet to be fitted. I’ve also added a Parrot Bluetooth LS3200 into the system. This also works very well (I’ve read about the horrors of the factory PTI).
The new head unit is an Eclipse AVN 6000. Details are at http://www.eclipse-web.com.au/avn/index.html

I’m getting a company called Precision Car Audio Engineering to do the work. I am very happy with the quality and workmanship of the job. Even stuff that you can’t see is properly finished off. Here is their web address http://www.precisioncaraudio.com.au I know this is really only any good for us in the Colonies but there are a few aussies on the list.

One of the interesting things found during the fit out was that the original head unit feed data into the info centre and well as providing the capability to change the clock. The stereo steering wheel controls (as we all know) are also linked through the head unit to change the setup in the info centre. This problem was solved ‘simply’ by keeping the head unit in the system, but relocating it. It now sits in the RHS rear cargo compartment behind one of the panels. All it does is manage this clock and data changes. The steering wheel controls still work for the new unit.

Additional amplification was also added, again hidden next to the relocated head unit.

Two TV antenna’s were added, one internal on glass on the front windscreen and one on the roof where the factory Sat Nav antenna usually sits. Performance from just the one on glass antenna is great. Since the roof antenna must come off (unscrew) for entry/exit to our garage, I have just been using the on glass around town with great results.

I’ll post the finished product images when the project is complete in a couple of weeks.

Steve

Click image to enlarge

Antenna

Click image to enlarge

HDD Media Player and IPOD in the lower glove box

Click image to enlarge

Digital TV Picture

Click image to enlarge

Nav Picture

Click image to enlarge

Original Head Unit

I forgot .. for the sake of understanding, I have a 2700 TDV6 HSE version with OEM navi and harman kardon system.
Ciao.

Hi Stephen, Hi lads.
I am back with the same question I made last week, since I did not get an answer, maybe Stephen didn't see the post...

- since you moved the OEM system in the boot, did you have to extend the original cables?

- did you locate it at the right or the left?

- I assume this unit is quite thick .. when you dismounted it, did you get rid of some parts to let it be thinner?
If positive, which are the parts that can be detached?

- was it difficult to connect, at the same time, both the OEM and the after market unit?

- what about the harman kardon system? does it have an amplifier? If positive, did you use it for the new radio/navi, or you just left it with the old unit, installing a brand new amplifier?

-As for the steering wheel commands, provided that thay command also the other infos in the general system (I do not have the car yet, but this is what I understood from your post), do you still have the chance to manage also the new radio stuff (volume, frequency, etc)?
If positive, did you have to buy an adapter?


Thanks for your precious help.
Gianluca

gianluca wrote:

- since you moved the OEM system in the boot, did you have to extend the original cables?

gianluca wrote:

- did you locate it at the right or the left?

gianluca wrote:

- I assume this unit is quite thick .. when you dismounted it, did you get rid of some parts to let it be thinner? If positive, which are the parts that can be detached?

gianluca wrote:

- was it difficult to connect, at the same time, both the OEM and the after market unit?

gianluca wrote:

- what about the harman kardon system? does it have an amplifier? If positive, did you use it for the new radio/navi, or you just left it with the old unit, installing a brand new amplifier?

gianluca wrote:

-As for the steering wheel commands, provided that thay command also the other infos in the general system (I do not have the car yet, but this is what I understood from your post), do you still have the chance to manage also the new radio stuff (volume, frequency, etc)?
If positive, did you have to buy an adapter?

I noticed that some countries come with different spec of audio sys. So, just for your reference, here is the list of things I got as "OEM" here in Korea.

1. DVD Navi.
2. 6 DVD changer (in addition to in-dash 6 changer)
3. Sat. DMB(TV) using OEM antenna.

I also had dealer install rear view camera. Rear view screen pops up when gear goes into R and it uses factory navi screen.

Very useful, very interesting!

mobile fidelity wrote:

gianluca wrote:

- since you moved the OEM system in the boot, did you have to extend the original cables?

Yes the cables were extended to keep the info display working on the instrumentation cluster.

gianluca wrote:

- did you locate it at the right or the left?

The OEM unit was located on the right rear 1/4 panel.

gianluca wrote:

- I assume this unit is quite thick .. when you dismounted it, did you get rid of some parts to let it be thinner? If positive, which are the parts that can be detached?

No parts were removed from the OEM unit.

gianluca wrote:

- was it difficult to connect, at the same time, both the OEM and the after market unit?

Even thou the OEM unit is connected, it only serves as a repeater for the info on the cluster i.e. the "i" button on the indicator stalk won't activate the info on the cluster without the OEM unit connected. If the "i" button is not in the vehicle then you won't need to relocate the OEM unit.

gianluca wrote:

- what about the harman kardon system? does it have an amplifier? If positive, did you use it for the new radio/navi, or you just left it with the old unit, installing a brand new amplifier?

Base models and ones equiped with HK (Hardly Kranking) all have amplifiers, the difference being the HK runs the speakers actively i.e. internal active crossovers.

gianluca wrote:

-As for the steering wheel commands, provided that thay command also the other infos in the general system (I do not have the car yet, but this is what I understood from your post), do you still have the chance to manage also the new radio stuff (volume, frequency, etc)?
If positive, did you have to buy an adapter?

Yes, PAC SW adaptors were used, little tricky with operation from memory.