Ahh yes i never thaught of a Hi/Lo converter, does this type of conversion need a 12v feed and GNG.

How have you powerd the 12v switch for tha amp ? is this just a ignition feed Eg from the cigar socket in the boot or have you ran a seperate wire along with the main amp feeds.

Regards Pete Follow Us On Twitter @bellautos

Do you have any pictures and sizes of the standard sub and speakers ?

I remember looking at a D3 sub a few months agao that i was doing some wireing mods on but i didnt take notes as it was not in the garage for the sound system at the time.

Pete Follow Us On Twitter @bellautos

bellautos wrote:

Do you have any pictures and sizes of the standard sub and speakers ?

I remember looking at a D3 sub a few months agao that i was doing some wireing mods on but i didnt take notes as it was not in the garage for the sound system at the time.

Pete

I dont have any pics, i just chucked it in the trash. i sealed off that entire trunk lid so it had to go. it looks like a ghetto JL Tw5. it doesnt need a 12v feed just splice and go. The amp remote is hooked up to the front door window switch. i did not run the amp wires, i had a friend hook it up for me. 

Murdered out wrote:

I dont have any pics, i just chucked it in the trash. i sealed off that entire trunk lid so it had to go. it looks like a ghetto JL Tw5. it doesnt need a 12v feed just splice and go. The amp remote is hooked up to the front door window switch. i did not run the amp wires, i had a friend hook it up for me.

Hey my question is --> how do u hook up a high low converter to the subwoofer wires? I thought they are supposed to be hooked up to speaker wires and the high low convrter then converts it. (maybe I am not understanding something). Is there a way to tap into the line level speaker wires (that are not amplified and are coming directly from the head unit before they reach the stock amp)

The other question is the REM 12v wire. What do you mean you hooked it up to the window switch, isnt there an REM wire for the stock amp that you can splice into --> if there is can you please tell me where it is?

the wires that my high low converter were tapped into into are from the headunit, I'm not sure exactly on why things were done certain ways but this is the way that at least 5 other RRS owner hooked up thier systems.

I didnt do the wirring of my amp, i had a friend do it. its not wired to the switch exactly, its wired to the switch wire near the gas pedals on the left side (US). All i know about this is it works perfect and this is what other people have done with no issues. I wasnt trying to reinvent the wheel on this. email this guy- JBrac25@hotmail.com he is the RRS audio expert. 

Well due to the extreme power that is drawn from my battery and charging system due to the amp, my power system has gone down the drains causng my entire left side repeaters to fail completely. My parking sensors fart instead of beeping and my interior lights/cluster flashes like a disco everytime the bass hits.

Its getting bad. Here is what you can do to solve this problem if it occures.

1. I Installed a Kinetik Energy battery. Mine is 2250 amps! http://www.kinetikaudio.com/powercells.asp
Kinetik makes the BEST batterys for car audio, they're just expensive.

2. the next step is to upgrade the alternator. Mean Grean makes the best of the best and its a must have for anyone who needs a lot of current. http://www.mean-green.com/products/index.html


Installing a CarPC? you'll need a new battery and possibly an alternator if you have a massive audio system. 

Murdered out wrote:

Well due to the extreme power that is drawn from my battery and charging system due to the amp, my power system has gone down the drains causng my entire left side repeaters to fail completely. My parking sensors fart instead of beeping and my interior lights/cluster flashes like a disco everytime the bass hits.

Its getting bad. Here is what you can do to solve this problem if it occures.

1. I Installed a Kinetik Energy battery. Mine is 2250 amps! http://www.kinetikaudio.com/powercells.asp
Kinetik makes the BEST batterys for car audio, they're just expensive.

2. the next step is to upgrade the alternator. Mean Grean makes the best of the best and its a must have for anyone who needs a lot of current. http://www.mean-green.com/products/index.html


Installing a CarPC? you'll need a new battery and possibly an alternator if you have a massive audio system.

Chauster wrote:

Murdered out wrote:

Well due to the extreme power that is drawn from my battery and charging system due to the amp, my power system has gone down the drains causng my entire left side repeaters to fail completely. My parking sensors fart instead of beeping and my interior lights/cluster flashes like a disco everytime the bass hits.

Its getting bad. Here is what you can do to solve this problem if it occures.

1. I Installed a Kinetik Energy battery. Mine is 2250 amps! http://www.kinetikaudio.com/powercells.asp
Kinetik makes the BEST batterys for car audio, they're just expensive.

2. the next step is to upgrade the alternator. Mean Grean makes the best of the best and its a must have for anyone who needs a lot of current. http://www.mean-green.com/products/index.html


Installing a CarPC? you'll need a new battery and possibly an alternator if you have a massive audio system.

Would using 1 farad or 2 farad capacitors not help ?

This thread is 4 years old so he might have fixed his problem

Either way, power caps are pointless. To run a high draw system the best thing to do is use a split charge battery system and upgrade the power cables to and from the alt. LCFC. Receiver of threatening letters from Overfinch.

Yes this system was an amazing sound, my mate would not sell his for anything else!

claws wrote:

Thanks all for your suggestions.

ViewWise - you're a great help. I will be looking in to the Alpine & JL equipment, this is just the direction I was after. As things progress I'll post an update or two in case anyone's interested...

Cheers!