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 | Home > Technical > How to fit new wishbone (lower arm) and track rod end |
 
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| kav1187 Member Since: 04 Apr 2012 Location: SX Posts: 307   
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Hi Guys,
Step 2 Using the 32mm socket, loosen the hub nut but do not remove
Step 3 Loosen but do not remove the wheel nuts
Step 4 Lower vehicle to access height and lock. Apply EPB then steer the wheels full lock towards the side you will be working on.
Step 5 jack the vehicle up remembering to use axle stands to support the weight. Remove the wheel nuts and remove the wheel Step 6 Locate the track rod end and spray the nuts with WD40. Use a wire brush to remove rust, especially on the nut located on the track rod itself.
Step 7 Using two 24mm spanners, undo the nut on the track rod.
Step 8 Using an 18mm spanner, undo and remove the nut on the hub carrier. If the thread spins whilst you are trying to undo the nut, you may need to use a 5mm allen key to counter turn.
Step 9 Undo the nut on the track rod and mark the point on the thread where the track rod end stops. This will ensure you put your replacement track rod end in the same position as the old one, so your tracking should be almost the same as before. Step 10 Using a 15mm spanner, turn the track rod enough for it to loosen the thread within the track rod end.
Step 11 Use a splitter tool to separate the track rod end from the hub carrier.
do not break the tool 
Step 12 My replacement track rod end was slightly different to the one fitted to my RRS. Not sure if it's a discovery one or a newer item. I just have to take this into account when re-fitting onto the track rod.
Screw the new track rod end onto the track rod, upto the point you marked in step 9 (take into account any difference in length between old and new track rod ends) Tighten the nut on the track rod.
Wishbone time.... Step 13 Leave the track rod separated from the hub carrier for the time being. Remove the rear-most undertray by undoing the six 10mm bolts.
Step 14 Spray WD40 on all the nuts and bolts connected to the wishbone. There are 3 bolts/nuts connected to the wishbone, as well as a ball joint with a nut on the underside of the hub carrier. Here's the end result of what you're working with...
Step 15 After the WD40 has had a chance to soak in, mark out the position of the eccentric cams at both the bolt end and the nut end. I did this by spraying primer around it. This will ensure that the tracking will be fairly similar once the new wishbone is in place.
Step 16 Loosen and remove the four 24mm nuts around the wishbone. Front
Rear
Suspension Strut
Front of suspension strut (21mm)
Lower Ball Joint
Step 17 Remove the nut from the driveshaft (loosened in step 2) and push the driveshaft towards the engine so it pops out of the hub carrier. You may need to give it some gentle persuasion with a hammer and centre punch. Step 18 Remove the suspension strut bolt.
Step 19 Remove the lower ball joint from the hub carrier. You may need to use the splitter again - mine just hammered out.
Step 20 You should be left with this.
If your bolts are siezed inside the bush like my rear one was then having the wishbone in this position will give you a good angle to work with. The siezed rear bolt
I kept turning the bolt and fighting against the springiness of the bush, regularly spraying WD40. The bush eventually gave way and I was able to pull the bolt out without having to cut it.
The bolt had rusted and siezed to the sleeve of the bush:
Step 21 Pull all the bolts out and remove the wishbone. Step 22 Gather new bolt/eccentric cam/washer/nut
Apply anti-sieze copper grease to the bolts to prevent them siezing inside the bushes.
I fitted my new wishbone in this order: 1) Lower ball joint to hub carrier (and line up driveshaft at this point) 2) Suspension strut 3) Rear Bolt 4) Front Bolt Once the bolts are through, make sure that the eccentric cams fit in exactly the same place as before. This is where the markings made in step 15 are useful.
Step 23 Hand tighten the four 24mm nuts. I am told that they should be torque tightened once the car is sitting on the ground at normal ride height. Step 24 Connect the track rod end to the hub carrier. Torque tighten the 18mm nut.
step 25 Fit driveshaft nut but do not torque tighten just yet. Step 26 Fit wheel and hand tighten the wheel nuts. Remove the axle stands and lower the car. Step 27 Tighten hub nut to 230nm (used to be 275 but LR reduced it to 230 to put less stress on the bearings).
Step 28 Jack up the car. Remove the wheel and make a notch in the hub nut using a flat chisel. Step 29 Fit wheel and nuts, lower the car and torque tighten wheel nuts to 140nm Step 30 Fit centre cap
Step 31 Take the locking wheel nut out of the wheel  
Step 32 Raise the suspension to normal ride height and torque tighten the four 24mm nuts. Step 33 Attach the rear undertray (six 10mm bolts) Step 34 Get the tracking done. Give yourself a pat on the back - you've just saved yourself approx £400 
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Sat Nov 17 2012 2:43am |
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| aljo Member Since: 13 Jun 2006 Location: West Sussex Posts: 3243 
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Excellent "how to" post |
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Sat Nov 17 2012 10:41am |
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awwww we dont have one on here ? | kav1187 Member Since: 04 Apr 2012 Location: SX Posts: 307
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Thanks Aljo |
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Sat Nov 17 2012 12:01pm |
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| kav1187 Member Since: 04 Apr 2012 Location: SX Posts: 307
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Thanks for the kind words Paddi |
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Sun Nov 18 2012 1:11am |
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ed 
| mse Member Since: 08 Mar 2011 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 2916
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Access mode locked will stop it auto levelling use that on the ferry Mike
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Sun Nov 18 2012 12:02pm |
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| Tiny Timmy Member Since: 20 May 2011 Location: Bucks Posts: 233 
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Excellent pics and description Thanks , just what this Forum is about, well done |
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Sun Nov 18 2012 10:56pm |
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| kluklut Member Since: 23 Mar 2010 Location: Birmingham Posts: 45 
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Wow! thanks for this. Really astonishing what such you can accomplish with so few tools! |
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Wed Feb 06 2013 3:12pm |
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| RRSTDV8 Member Since: 13 Aug 2011 Location: Northamptonshire Posts: 9045
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I don't fancy doing this on the road side (no driveway) so I'm sadly paying someone else to do mine next week. They're charging for 2 hours work to do it (total of �540 +VAT!!)
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Wed Feb 06 2013 5:44pm |
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| Bodsy Site Sponsor Member Since: 03 Feb 2007 Location: Shropshire Posts: 2162
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If youre having the track rod ends changed, it's definately worth changing the inner track rods as well. Inners seem to wear twice as much as the ends. |
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Thu Feb 07 2013 12:19am |
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| kav1187 Member Since: 04 Apr 2012 Location: SX Posts: 307
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Thanks Chaps - I've got the inner track rods too so when I do my driver's side I'll take some pics and add to the guide |
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Fri Feb 08 2013 3:38pm |
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| Disco_Mikey Member Since: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Dundee, Scotland Posts: 4441
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The inner track rods are around �15 each, and T.R.E's another �15 each or so. If you are interested in buying the kit, it is actually cheaper to buy all the parts individually
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Sun Feb 10 2013 6:06pm |
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| RRSTDV8 Member Since: 13 Aug 2011 Location: Northamptonshire Posts: 9045
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Just got mine back from the dealer. Took 2 days to replace the front lower arms. Apparently much "swearing and throwing of hammers" was involved. They had to cut them off in the end. Glad I didn't try it myself and also glad it was done on a price so the extra hours involved didn't cost me. |
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Thu Feb 14 2013 7:39pm |
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| Disco_Mikey Member Since: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Dundee, Scotland Posts: 4441
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2 days? |
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Fri Feb 15 2013 7:58am |
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| RRSTDV8 Member Since: 13 Aug 2011 Location: Northamptonshire Posts: 9045
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Fair enough. Judging by some of their work previously I could see them spending a day trying to undo one bolt... 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
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Fri Feb 15 2013 11:05am |
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