Hi all,

RRS 2011 TDV6

I've noticed that the smoke from my car doesn't smell right recently (no idea why) and there was a massive cloud of smoke when I accelerated up a hill a few days ago.

The car was cold at the time (2km into the ride) and the oil is relatively new (9 months old - 10,000kms max). It hasn't done it since but I get the feeling that something needs to be checked.

Is there anything that I should do please, to avoid bigger issues further down the road?

Thanks in advance for ANY help or advice....

Regards,

Nick

Turbo seals gone? Also - never, never floor it when cold. Regards etc.,

Wojtek

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WAS: 2006 RRS Supercharged
IS: 2010 RRS TDV8 HSE

Thanks for the reply.

Turbo seals or could it actually be the Turbo?

I never "boot" the car at all - if I rev too high I get the "Restricted Performance" warning etc. If I keep the revs normal, I'm fine.

Are turbo seals easy / cheap to fix please?

Regards,

Nick

If the seals of the turbo bearings are gone it's rebuild time.
Keep in mind it could've also been just water condensed in the exhaust, but if you know it was oil, it most probably came from the turbocharger. Easy to check - just remove the turbo intake pipe and check for traces of oil. Regards etc.,

Wojtek

---
WAS: 2006 RRS Supercharged
IS: 2010 RRS TDV8 HSE

What does rebuild time mean?

Is that time consuming or expensive?

I'm not able to do anything myself so any repairs will be done by my local mechanics in Spain, which is never a good thing.

Thanks again 🙏

Whoa whoa whoa, you got a broken car and wonder why it smokes? Go fix the restricted performance problem first, then go from there. Probably a split manifold or loose hose clip from what you describe. You also have a DPF since it’s a 2011, they do burn offs and when they do, they smoke, smells weird as well, like a chargrilled smell outside Burger King.

And if you have to rebuild the turbo, yes it’s time consuming and yes it’s expensive. But these are pretty robust turbos, so more likely a split manifold or loose hose clip is causing the restricted performance fault.

Hose clip will be relatively quick and easy, just getting access to check them can be a pain. Split intake manifold can be a two day job. Just pray they don’t break all the vacuum lines like somebody did on the 3.0 TDV6 I’m working on now. If it is an inlet manifold, it’s likely to be the one on the right as you look at the engine. If you remove the oil cap and then remove the engine cover you might see oil and soot on the bottom of the cover and around the wire loom on top of the manifold. If it is the manifold, get genuine FoMoCo, but buy it from Citroen for about half of what Land Rover wants.

This was the day after I got the restricted performance message:



This was a bit later when I finally replaced the manifold:

 2011 RRS HSE Luxury 3.0 TDV6 Fuji White on Ebony/Ivory
Born and raised in So Cal. Moved to the UK in 2018 for a few years. Now in Poland and looking at moving back to the UK.

MallorcaNick wrote:

if I rev too high I get the "Restricted Performance" warning etc. If I keep the revs normal, I'm fine

Hi,

agree with NE above ^ unless your running at 5500-6000 rpm all the time
you have an issue to sort, get that looked at first, any access to a diagnostic device to check for codes logged and check for split pipes or manifolds.

Your RRS has been trying to tell it needs help or your Bills may start to get a lot bigger

 Porsche Cayenne 2022
gone Porsche Cayenne 2020
gone Corris Grey HSE Dynamic 2016
gone Ipanema HSE lux 2010
gone Rimini HSE 2005
!!

MallorcaNick wrote:

and the oil is relatively new (9 months old - 10,000kms max) Nick

Hi again

not sure about your oil being relatively new its not far off another oil change at 12 months and many change by 10k km (6k miles to us) no laws are broken by leaving it later it or doing it earlier its your choice

 Porsche Cayenne 2022
gone Porsche Cayenne 2020
gone Corris Grey HSE Dynamic 2016
gone Ipanema HSE lux 2010
gone Rimini HSE 2005
!!

MallorcaNick wrote:

I never "boot" the car at all - if I rev too high I get the "Restricted Performance" warning etc. If I keep the revs normal, I'm fine.

I can imagine Nick calling a local builder; Hi, my house is smoking, could you come take a look at it? I mean, it’s on fire, but it’s only the smoke that bothers me so I’d like that fixed.

Sorry Nick, couldn’t resist. Seriously though, get the restricted performance issue dealt with first. Then, if it’s still smoking, deal with that next. I have a feeling fixing the one will address the other. If you do have a split manifold then the car is going to eventually get to the point even light acceleration will throw RP. Leave it longer and you’ll get check engine. Leave it longer and you’ll get a clogged DPF fault. I’m speaking from experience on this. The DPF will also be working overtime due to the increased soot from the leak, so that cloud of smoke could have in fact been a DPF burn off. 2011 RRS HSE Luxury 3.0 TDV6 Fuji White on Ebony/Ivory
Born and raised in So Cal. Moved to the UK in 2018 for a few years. Now in Poland and looking at moving back to the UK.

OK, I'll be completely honest.

I don't trust the mechanics here in Mallorca. Many lie and many are incompetent. Many are both.

I've had both manifolds changed, yet the issue re. the "Restricted Performance" returned within a month or two.

I can't afford to throw good money after bad and ALWAYS try to look after my car, but every issue fixed creates a bigger issue here. For example, I got the brushes changes to stop the little 'bang' noise when softly applying the breaks or going over a tiny curb. I know have quite a loud 'clang' every time the car's balance shifts from left to right. I took it back to the guy who did the bushes (it must be a connected issue as the sound wasn't there before) but the garage was closed and for good!!!

I took the car to one place and asked about the loose or split pipes, but they didn't check it. They stuck it on the computer and said 'it's the manifold', which had already been replaced on both sides.

I'm TRYING to look after her, but I'm sick of being ripped off by people who have no idea about Range Rovers.

So, I have two questions:

1. If I go to the mechanics, what EXACTLY do I need to ask them to look for please? Where is the loose or cracked pipe?

2. How much would a new turbo cost? Is a reconditioned unit worth considering, or is that a false economy as someone else suggested? I know it's not easy to answer, as I'm in Spain, but in the UK, roughly what would you pay for parts and labour please???

I'm really so grateful for all your help and advice as I'm pulling my hair out here!

Thanks.....

Hi Nick,

it is very difficult if you can not diagnose issues yourself (the forum IS very helpfull but you may have to have a thick skin ) or have a reliable garage you can trust to be straight with you.
It could be a few things consider buying a used IID BT (£300 is a fair price there has been one on here recently and think another still for sale) they are straight forward to use and can help point you (the forum) in the right direction,
although it is another outlay you can sell it again and more than likely get your £300 back it also saves you paying to find what codes are stored as faults.

if you search for cracked manifolds ISTR smoke testing is one way find them (D3 has much more threads if needed)

as for cost my D3 2.7D back in 2017 in previous ownership had "investigate waterloss and smoking" it had a waterpump, service, set of glow plugs and a new turbo that was £640 parts came to just over £800 labour was £600 +vat so £1700

Again new knocking could be a few things but the "little knock" when tapping brakes probably was front lower arm bushes most likely the rear bush, so what did they change and what did they put in and does the arm now hit the mounting if they did that.

use the search button for intercooler pipe it should be fairly easy to spot that one, top front of engine going down between rad and engine from memory .
https://www.rrsport.co.uk/forum/topic52849...hose+split
or something like this from a tdv8..
https://www.rrsport.co.uk/forum/topic56644...hose+split

best of luck

 Porsche Cayenne 2022
gone Porsche Cayenne 2020
gone Corris Grey HSE Dynamic 2016
gone Ipanema HSE lux 2010
gone Rimini HSE 2005
!!

Hi Riverblanche,

Thank you so much for taking the time to help.

Re. your new turbo - that was about £1,000? I'd take that right now, if I could trust someone to do it.

Re. bushes - I don't know exactly what they changed, but that 'tapping' noise when braking at walking speed went away when the bushes were changed. Unfortunately, I think it's caused something else to make a noise now, so it could very well be the arm now hit the mounting. I don't really understand what that is, exactly, but is it easy/difficult to fix?

As I said, I can't go back to the guy who did the bushes are he's disappeared from the island.

Thanks again for any help/advice. I'd love to be able to get her healthy again and drive without that awful feeling of 'something about to go wrong'.

Hi,

bushes may need a garage to find out which ones if its them thats knocking,
I choose my battles of what jobs to do on my cars
I did my rear brakes, pads, discs and shoes, but had the garage to do my front lower arms, the rear bush about £300
here's another thread for you to look at might help you.



https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/restricted-...hose+split
. Porsche Cayenne 2022
gone Porsche Cayenne 2020
gone Corris Grey HSE Dynamic 2016
gone Ipanema HSE lux 2010
gone Rimini HSE 2005
!!

MallorcaNick wrote:

I'm really so grateful for all your help and advice as I'm pulling my hair out here!