Does anyone know if there is a setting so that the suspension automatically drops to the low setting on turning off the ignition?

On a RRS1 I'm afraid there isn't.

Cheers
Col

As indicated not available. However in the earlier RRS the Land Rover Button on the key fob can be programmed to raise and lower the suspension and this option may meet your needs if the same is available on your later model.

Garry 07MY RRS TDV6
Arctic Frost
Aspen Interior

Yes it is the same on the facelift variants.



Cheers
Col

it's quite easy to press the suspension lower button before you come to a stop. (I think it has to be with 45 seconds of you stopping). Then when the car has slowed down it will lower.

As Andy says above. Or just select it at stop.

I believe it is perceived wisdom on here that the car should always be moving or moved with/after a new suspension height is reached so as to relieve any strain on suspension bits due to changes in geometry of the new height. I always select Access height just before parking up so that it has a chance to settle in the new geometry whilst I am still moving. Or if I stop before it has reached the new height then just a quick slot into forward and then reverse will do the trick. I might be being a shade too precious here but it’s no great hardship to make it part of your parking routine. Robin
2008 Range Rover Sport TDV8
Gone:
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"I believe it is perceived wisdom on here that the car should always be moving or moved with/after a new suspension height is reached so as to relieve any strain on suspension bits due to changes in geometry of the new height."

Never heard that? Have tended to put it in lowered as stopped and raise before moving off. No problems in 50k miles.



[/b]

best done when the park brake is off


and not in P

Why ?

When the suspension goes up and down with the handbrake on (or in Park) I'd guess there is a certain amount of 'rotation' of the wheel vs the hub due to the geometry of the suspension arms (IIRC it's semi trailing arm both ends?) - with the brakes on, that rotation is working against the brakes and you are effectively 'loading up' the torsional stress into all of the components that want to move but can't..

Just like coming to a stop on the foot brake in a softly sprung car, setting the handbrake and then hearing the creak as the back end settles back down when you come off the brakes.

Educated guess, anyway

exactly that

Interesting point and thanks for the explanation. One would hope these components were not so delicate to fail as a result.

indeed, you really shouldn't be lowering/raising the car when standing still on a firm surface.

on soft surfaces such as gravel, snow, sand, etc., it's less of an issue. --
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I understand the argument but then you would think JLR would say this in the manual (they don't in my 2012my uk version). In fact it explicitly tells you how to put it in access mode up to 40 secs after ignition is off (don't open driver door). They could also have interlocked it so you had to be on the move to select or change heights.

Furthermore, emergency ride height can kick in if it senses you are grounded, eg unable to move at all. Points to me to comments above being probably the best practice from the point of view of mechanical sympathy, but not having any noticable real world impact one way or the other per JLR or my own experience.