Hi all,

I’m on my 4th (and most troublesome) Range Rover sport. I have issues which match another members who resolved his by blanking the EGR valves. Now I have done this on my old Audi with ease.

My question is, can I temporarily blank them to see if my issues resolve themselves? (I know I’ll get an EML until mapped out)

Would unplugging the EGR valves be sufficient or would I need to blank them to test.

Thanks

Do you have a petrol still ?

I think you need to blank them (with a spacer).
Unplugging them will just cause more fault codes and light,
But it depends what the issue is I guess

Can’t believe I missed out the variant!

This one is the 3.6 tdv8, on my Audi that I blanked I had an engine management light but it drove much better blanked, then I had the egr mapped out a month later. I’m hoping I can do the same with the egr on this.

Also does anyone have a diy on removing or cleaning the egr’s?

its not a fun job to remove them on the V6.
Most people blank and patch
or fit new.

I fitted new when mine failed,, car was undrivable on a cold engine after each failure. EGR valves are not so much of a problem on the V8 compared to the V6 but if you are considering new units do both,, it will save you in the long run. 2010 RRS, TDV8
bali Blue / colour coded
side steps / flappy paddles
black perforated leather
22" overfinch
heated everything, TV,fridge ...... now with gold calipers and mud flaps !( black mud flaps that is) !!
Many years ago,,,,, 1955 series 1 landie , sometimes wish I had kept it

Thanks for the replies!

Mine seems to match almost exactly the issues in the thread below.

http://www.rrsport.co.uk/forum/topic46562.html

Gogsy1956 can I ask what your symptoms were of a dodgey egr?

I think when problems first started,, but I didn't realise,,, on occasion from startup when cold the engine would be slightly lumpy at tickover but would settle down after a minute or so, also used to get a small amount of whitish smoke from the exhaust. When they failed proper the car had very little acceleration then I would get a restricted performance fault on the dash. Starting from cold their would be clouds of whitish smoke from the exhaust but no power at all,, even struggled trying to get it back on the drive, which has a minute incline,, had to be trailered to my indie, no way I would attempt to drive there.
As I said, I made the mistake of replacing the faulty valve only,,, 2 months later the other valve failed. I could have saved a bit by doing both in the first instance. This was at about the 97k mark 2010 RRS, TDV8
bali Blue / colour coded
side steps / flappy paddles
black perforated leather
22" overfinch
heated everything, TV,fridge ...... now with gold calipers and mud flaps !( black mud flaps that is) !!
Many years ago,,,,, 1955 series 1 landie , sometimes wish I had kept it

Mine sounds somewhere in the middle of what you describe. I think I’d likely blank both rather than replace them. It made a world of difference on the car I last did it on.

At one time it was not possible to blank them on the V8 for whatever reason,, easy on the V6, but I think nowadays some people have done it but I think it requires a software update afterwards. 2010 RRS, TDV8
bali Blue / colour coded
side steps / flappy paddles
black perforated leather
22" overfinch
heated everything, TV,fridge ...... now with gold calipers and mud flaps !( black mud flaps that is) !!
Many years ago,,,,, 1955 series 1 landie , sometimes wish I had kept it