I've only had my 2005 RRS 4.2 SC since Sept 16 and it has been an amazing experience, some good, some bad but definitely i am in love with driving again.

This is my first LR product and although old (the car and me) I want to do my best to keep the old girl in great condition.

So my front and rear discs were heavily lipped and the pads about 50% worn so decided to replace the lot. Lookers in Battersea wanted £1,200 for the job which is ridiculous and despite having a desk job and some mechanical (but not much) knowledge decided to do it myself.

Hope someone else finds this useful;

Ordered new front and rear Brembo discs from Amazon & Brembo front and rear pads and brake wear sensors from GSF using the 52% weekend discount (although didn't fit the sensors in the end, used the old ones instead as they were ok if you gently remove the sensors and they haven't been burnt through due to pad wear).

Decided that to be confident I needed the right tools for the job so I bought the Halfords Advanced 170 piece socket set (only used about 6 items), an impact wrench with 50TX bit (to remove all 4 disc retaining screws), 2 x 3T axle stands, 5/32 long punch (to remove Brembo pins on front), and additional 13/16 12 point socket (ESSENTIAL for the really torqued up Brembo front calliper mounting bolts)

Using a combination of Bodsy's Brake Bible (thank you so much, covers not just the procedure but everything else you hadn't thought of) and Atlantic British on YouTube took me about 6 hours on a sunny weekend.

Link for Bodsy's Brake Bible (member on here and knows nearly everything! http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=4184
Link for Atlantic British YouTube video

One thing neither of them mentioned which I found useful, is to jack both sides of the front or back axle (whichever you are working on) off the ground. This makes it easier on the rears to turn one wheel to align the parking brake adjuster hole and on the fronts, to turn the steering to get enough access to really get some muscle on the Brembo mounting bolts!

Here's a few photos, Im really pleased, following the instructions, no bind, squeal and no problems with the parking brake.

I really recommend giving this a go, even if you haven't done before. If you have enough strength left after lifting your wallet out for the last RRS dealer works then you can do this.

The 2 hardest physical parts were lifting the wheels off and undoing the front Brembo calliper bolts (they really are torqued in and you need to make sure the car is stable on axle stands).






Rear brake with disc off showing the parking brake shoes, cleaned up afterwards with some wet and dry (no wet!)



New Brembo rear disc fitted



Old disc on front brake


New Brembo front disc fitted


"New" Stormer alloy with summer tyres fitted (next job refurb on alloys)





Old front disc compared to new (look at the corrosion!!!!)

The whole job cost me about £400 including tools!

Thanks guys, hope someone else like me gets the confidence to do this! 2016 RRS SVR Estoril Blue
2005 4.2L Supercharged Java Black - gone but was my first love.
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If we all point our RR's in the same direction and accelerate at the same time can we turn back time?

Good report. Thanks for this.  Robin
2008 Range Rover Sport TDV8
Gone:
Jaguar S-Type V8 4.2 Sport
MGZTT 190 2.5

Thanks Eaters,

Hope it helps someone out as this forum and it's members have helped me out 2016 RRS SVR Estoril Blue
2005 4.2L Supercharged Java Black - gone but was my first love.
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If we all point our RR's in the same direction and accelerate at the same time can we turn back time?

Nice write up.. I'm planning on doing all 4 wheels soon. Getting Zimmermann rotors for the front and brembo rotors for rear..... Cost was the determining factor and Zimmermann has a strong rep with the German car enthusiasts. Still though, I have yet to hear any Land Rover owners chime in about Zimmermann..... Has anyone used them for their Rangie?

Great report! Thanks. Merc C220 estate Sport AMG
Merc C220 estate Sport AMG 125 year edition
Alfa GT
Rover 76 V6

Good job! Looks like all your underneath is wax oiled, do you know what product they used exactly? there are various reports on the different types, looks clean and well protected.

Waxoil is a bit of a double edged blade. It protects the car but is a nightmare when you've got to do any work.

adameverett wrote:

Good job! Looks like all your underneath is wax oiled, do you know what product they used exactly? there are various reports on the different types, looks clean and well protected.

I did a bit of research back in November last year and after weeks of deliberating I went with the Dinitrol rust protection system. There wasn't much between the 2 but from what i could gather the Dinitrol actually treats the rust as well as preventing it to a degree. I also liked the fact they use it on aircraft!!!

So far I'm happy with it but to be honest i don't get under the car that much! However, I did notice that when i was jacking it up , I use a CNC machined block of aluminiium with a stud on it that fits in the jack mount hole on the chassis and when I removed the jack, the block was stuck to the chassis! When I pulled it off it was covered a bit in what can only be described as tar.

Might protect it but I feel sorry for my mechanic now!

Not sure of any other difference between Dinitrol and Waxoil 2016 RRS SVR Estoril Blue
2005 4.2L Supercharged Java Black - gone but was my first love.
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If we all point our RR's in the same direction and accelerate at the same time can we turn back time?

Scrumpy,

Quick question. Did you leave it in neutral to adjust the parking break? I'm only asking because when I jacked mine up I had to have it in Park so I wasn't able to adjust the Electronic Parking Brake.

Now if you did have it in neutral, what did you do to brace the wheels and keep the car form moving while jacked up?

Hi Canrover,
I am fortunate to have a slight incline on my driveway (not enough that it would move but enough that you can feel gravity working!) so when I did the fronts I had it so the car naturally wanted to roll back but left it in neutral and just chocked one rear wheel (both sides of the tyre) with the supplied chocks and the other rear wheel with some 4x2 timber.
Then I turned the car around and did the same with the rears so the car wanted to roll forwards but chocked the fronts the same.
From memory, I think I originally tried in Park like you but couldn't turn the rear wheels to line up the brake shoe adjuster so had to put it in neutral. 2016 RRS SVR Estoril Blue
2005 4.2L Supercharged Java Black - gone but was my first love.
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If we all point our RR's in the same direction and accelerate at the same time can we turn back time?

Neat way to look at it. I also have a slight incline in my garage (but not on driveway) to drain water but I've always been afraid to jack it up with the wheels chocked for fear that the wheels would roll right over them. How confident did you feel with the setup while doing the work? any scary moments? Car wobbling too much?

Lol, now you put it like that not as confident as i thought I was!!!
I've never jacked up such a heavy vehicle and even just that simple task was nerve racking!
But I had got a couple of 3T axle stands and once the front or back axle was on those there was no movement at it was very solid.

It also took quite a bit of effort to remove the chocks so I guess it was wanting to escape but the incline is so small you can't notice it with the naked eye otherwise, like you, I think i would have been scared of it rolling off down the road! 2016 RRS SVR Estoril Blue
2005 4.2L Supercharged Java Black - gone but was my first love.
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If we all point our RR's in the same direction and accelerate at the same time can we turn back time?

True,

Now you got me thinking........ I could drive it into the Garage diagonally so that the force pulling the car down is not as great as if it was driven directly in. That might ease the pressure of all that weight wanting to roll directly down the driveway.... What do you think?

It sounds like a good idea to me.
But if you also chock the wheels with something substantial it should be fine. It's all about stopping the momentum. If it can't start rolling then i guess it's not going anywhere.
Maybe a scaffold board just under the wheels and then a bit of 4x2 screwed to it on its side just to be sure so that if it does make it over the scaffold board the 4x2 should stop it!
If all else fails, just get another RRS parked up right behind it in gear, EPB on and chocked!!!!! 2016 RRS SVR Estoril Blue
2005 4.2L Supercharged Java Black - gone but was my first love.
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If we all point our RR's in the same direction and accelerate at the same time can we turn back time?

If your worried about your RRS rolling over a piece of wood used as a chock, try pushing your RRS over it from standstill - you might be surprised how much huffing and puffing you'll do before giving up!
I do find a trolley jack can pull the car forward/backwards during lifting if the jack wheels don't roll well, so take care there, but I've jacked my Defender and P38 many times on slopes and flat and as long as there's something there I've never had any cause for concern. 13MY Range Rover Sport Autobiography SDV6 - mine
14MY Range Rover Evoque Dynamic SD4 Black Pack - wife's
99MY Defender 90 TD5, Soft Top Conversion - my toy, and bairns favourite