I have seen so many posts about the “dynamic anti-roll bar leaking”

I have a Range Rover Sport 2006 that has now been on my drive for some 5/6 mouths with this very problem, the reason I left it there is every mechanic I took it to said the same thing “If you replace the front dynamic anti-roll bar”, its best to change the rear one at the same time. This is due to the sudden increase in pressure the back one will start to leak very soon after.

Not wanting to spend that type on money at the time I just kept thinking of a way out of it, I am only thinking out load, but if you have “dynamic anti-roll bar” fitted on some Range Rover Sport and not others, it’s an extra. You have it on the HSE but not the SE version of the car. So why not remove it completely and t replace both with a standard roll bar that I think are about £60.00 pound each.

You could then just clear the computer memory and so the car thinks that it does not have the “dynamic anti-roll bar” fitted

Has anyone tried to do this? If so did it work, If not why not.

I had a same idea, but it seems my antirollbar is ok for now, not leaking enymore.


strange that nobody havent replyed for your idea.

nice idea, are you sure the front anti roll bar is leaking? I only ask as I thought mine was, however it turned out to be a engine mount, these are computer controlled and are filled with oil. 07,TDV8,Black, Black Heated leather all round, Rear Entertainment with Headpones & Remote, TV, DVD, Pure Dab Digital Radio, Sidesteps, Adaptive Headlights, sunroof, now working fuel burning heater )))

No reason why one should leak after the other is replaced. My rear dynamic ARB was replaced without affecting the front one. Sounds like a garage trying it on. Avoid them from now on.

I doubt you can replace dynamic ARB with passive ARB without some issues occurring. Not least will be the resale issue. Oh, and the insurance "has it been modified?" question. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Sorry all for not replying sooner, after posting this have been off work with some type of man’s flu.

Anyway, yes it is the front anti roll bar leaking fluid out of the ram section. We now have the anti-roll bar stripped out, RRSTDV8 is correct it does seem to have some issue’s replacing it with a standard version, but all seem solvable at present.

Main Issues seems to be the ARB anti-roll bar is 34mm dia
The standard anti-roll bar is 31mm dia

OK we will just use the new brackets that come with the standard anti-roll bar.
can’t do that as the holes in the new brackets do not line up with the old tapped holes in the car.

Way out of it is to increase the standard anti- roll bar dia to 34mm, only in the section that it connects to the car so 2 pieces of 34mm dia tube cut and welded to the anti -roll bar, then the old ARB clamps and bushes work fine.

At present that’s all there is to it, we are trying to fit it next week I will let you know if it works or not.

Good point about the second one leaking after the first one has been replaced, but I have been told that by two separate Range Rover repair companies, something to do with sudden increase in pressure, but I am no mechanic.

Also good point about the insurance I will have to find out about that one….

Your going to have problems with the car throwing errors up, if the system is not disabled in the CCF file, also I think you will get some canbus errors. This will certainly be the case if you leave the rear system intact. You can change the option of whats fitted to standard anti role bar and you might be ok.

Flack

Thought I would upload some images, as it may have sounded a bit technical regarding welded tube, but its not

Also regarding the re-sale value I'm sure someone spending tops £1200.00 on a 56 plate RRS, would be glad to know that they will not have to spend another 4-5 thousand ponds at some point for what is a 50p O ring that will no lounger do its job and stop fluid leaking.

WHY DID LAND ROVER MAKE THIS A SEALED UNIT ITS LUDICROUS

Thanks Flack, I will make sure they take it out of the system if it works OK, Fingers Crossed....

interesting thread, so im presuming you just blank the pipes that would feed the actuator on the arb and wipe it form the ecu?

So you are going to swap the rear bar for a standard unit too then? If not I can see all sorts of handling issues. The system varies the roll bar stiffness with speed. A standard bar at the front and a dynamic bar at the rear could lead to roll induced oversteer at lower speeds (which is when the DR system softens the ARBs to give a more comfortable ride). This will make the DSC kick in which will try and stop you turning and will kill the power too. Once it's up to speed it'll probably be closer to the proper system but if it's not you could find it "interesting".

Also, if you take out both bars, what are you going to do with the valve block and the engine-driven pump? Are you just going to loop the flow out of the pump and straight back in to the return fitting?

As mentioned above, you'll need to disable the DR system in the CCF or the vehicle will think it's been gutted!

Personally, I think you're making the vehicle all-but-unsellable. First thing that will go through a buyer's mind is "if he did that bodge to avoid fixing it properly, what else hasn't been done properly when needed?" At the very least I think the reduction in sale price will be more than the savings in doing the job properly. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

All very interesting points, RRSTDV8

Yes I have purchased a rear roll bar to replace it but wanted to see if the front worked first, if that all goes OK then we will remove the body of the car to replace the rear.

Regarding the “oversteer at lower speeds” I have never taken my car of road and I take it that is the reason for the system, the highest I have ever taken the car is up is a curb.

We are going to leave the pump in place. This will act as a slave wheel for the belt, removing it open up problems with regards to the belt, so just disconnect it and leave it sealed off.

I Do understand your point about a buyer, but I personally feel you can look at it both ways, if it was explained to me the reason for the modification, Then I was told to go a look at forums like this one regarding the ARBs and leaking / banging noises, I could then decide, and remember we are not talking about a car with a value of 30/40 thousand it’s more like 12 thousand now days and cannot see anyone wanting to spend nearly half that again on repairs.

Someone has always got to be the first to try something, if it’s a disaster I can always scrap the car for parts it seems a good way of getting your money back on something now days

This looks very interesting,

It seems the problem with the ace control system has been going on with land rover for quite a long time. I was always informed although it could be incorrect; The Range Rover sport was based on the TD5 Land Rover containing many of the same parts including chassis.

I’m not sure if you can open links in this forum but I have attached one below,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Disco...338992eb40

it’s for a

“Land Rover Discovery 2 TD5 Ace Conversion Kit For Aircon Models The Active cornering system is a common failure point on the Discovery 2 fail points are corroded leaking pipes , pump failure ,leaks from the front and rear rams and valve block . Pump failure and faulty solenoids on the valve block as this is a suspension system any leak or lit warning lamp will fail an MOT You will then quickly find out that many garages will not want to repair the system as a diagnostic computer is needed to bleed the system, and once disturbed the pipes that go into the valve block are difficult to reseal due to corrosion,etc etc.”

This sounds Familiar I have already contacted the company and they do not do one for the Range Rover Sport as yet. But if it works for the TD5 it should work for the Sport, just different replacement parts.

This is a complete kit to replace the Ace system on the Discovery Series 2 TD5
This kit will allow you to remove all the ace system and replace it will a more conventional
Anti roll Bar System similar to the Discovery 2 non ACE vehicle supplied from the factory
it includes front and rear Anti-roll bars all brackets bushes links and even nuts bolts and washers !
also a replacement drive belt and Pulley to allow you to remove the ACE pump off the engine.
No specialist tools are required and a competent person should be able to fit in half a day
photo for illustration only

Quote:

The Range Rover sport was based on the TD5 Land Rover containing many of the same parts including chassis

Quit while you are ahead

Off the top of my head, i think the only thing the RRS and TD5 have in common is the main beam bulbs...

Good advice disco , I did say I was no mechanic , I don't really know anything about cars to be honest. Just think its worth a try.

It's really not...