That’s as I thought. I asked a dealer how much one would be and this was his email response

‘These are listed With Sports Base Bench Rear Seat they will cost £59.08 each inc vat’

Any ideas what that means? 2019 5.0 SC SVA (Current)
2012 5.0 SC AB. Sadly written off by a campervan
23 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

An update to this thread, I bought a set of seats from a 2013 MY sport which I think may have been from an SE or HSE. The base foam is Pt No. HGB500050 and the base cover is dated 17 Sep 2012 on one side and 16 Aug 12 on the other. I suspect the HGB500050 is actually for the lower spec seat and LR021399 is for the higher spec seat.




 2019 5.0 SC SVA (Current)
2012 5.0 SC AB. Sadly written off by a campervan
23 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

would anyone know the part numbers for front heat seat pads ? for driver and passenger front ?

Mine is a 2007 hse but doesn't have the ventilated from seats.

I'm guessing this would be suitable for the two front cushions HGB500050 , but what is the heat pads part #

Thanks

bump

Can anyone help me with the correct part numbers for the heat pads and seats cushions for a 2007 HSE, non perforated leather ?

Thanks

Could be this one lr016245


 2019 5.0 SC SVA (Current)
2012 5.0 SC AB. Sadly written off by a campervan
23 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

excellent thank you

Used to be HGL500020 same drivers and passengers, but number may have been superseded by now. I think LR016245 is for the facelift although LR016246 is the one I used when I replaced mine on a MY13 A/B as said was for Leather/Alacantara, which I believe is a type of Suede and the 245 was for Leather/PVC but could all be the same part number now.

Cheers
Col

thanks Col - I used the site in the picture - and came back with the part numbers you have there.

Not sure what that site is as can't read address fully, but I got the numbers from L/R's microcat parts list.

Cheers
Col

From what I’ve been seeing, there doesn’t appear to be a pre or post facelift version. There appears to be a low spec and high spec version throughout production. As shown in one of my posts above, I picked up a 2012 interior with what we believed were pre facelift cushions and heater pad. All dates are from the same month and year as the facelift seat controls and frame etc. 2019 5.0 SC SVA (Current)
2012 5.0 SC AB. Sadly written off by a campervan
23 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

According to L/R's own parts system they are different between pre-facelift and facelift variants, there is no mention in the parts list of a difference between a SE, HSE OR A/B. If I remember correctly the seat trim panels are a different layout between the two which could account for the difference in the seat cushion foam.

Cheers
Col

fitted my new heater pads and cushions at the weekend - very very happy. Much thanks to everyone

Sorry to ressurect an old thread but I just thought I'd let you guys know I replaced my driver's seat base today.

My local main dealer Land Rover parts desk told me that the seat base was on back order and they couldn't get them for 4 to 6 weeks. However, our forum sponsor, Advanced Factors in Southampton were able to order the base direct from Land Rover and get it to me within 3 working days Fantastic service as always, especially with the current 12% discount code

I reused my existing heated seat element as it separated easily enough from the old base.

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As you say,, well worth doing, and certainly made so much easier thanks to slims detailed description on how to do it otherwise I doubt I would have tried it. I got mine from Duckworths but I fitted a new heater as well as knowing my luck it wouldn't have come away from the old foam. 2010 RRS, TDV8
bali Blue / colour coded
side steps / flappy paddles
black perforated leather
22" overfinch
heated everything, TV,fridge ...... now with gold calipers and mud flaps !( black mud flaps that is) !!
Many years ago,,,,, 1955 series 1 landie , sometimes wish I had kept it

Slim444 wrote:

Hi folks,

Thought this might be useful, as there are very few 'how to' articles of this nature on the web. After having done this on my BMW X5 previously (a lot of blood and swearing!) thought I'd give it a go on the RRS. My car has 47k miles, but the bolster on the outside of the driver seat was going somewhat soft, so time to fit a new cushion before the leather started getting trashed.
New foam base and heater pad came to �97 all in with a bit of discount from my friendly Marshall Land Rover dealer in Peterborough.

Tools required- as below, Torx bit is a T40, 16x 5mm zip ties, or hog rings and pliers if you are feeling brave!



The seat base is held down by 4x T40 Torx bolts- in the pic here I've removed the base and dropped the bolts in the holes so you can see where they are located. A bit of dexterity required to get at the front ones (tilt the front of the seat up as far as it will go), and they are at a slight angle too. Once the bolts are out, carefully lift the base and unclip the cables that are fastened to the metal pan. A trim removal tool is useful for this if you have one.



Before removing the base completely, the green cable for the heater element has to be removed. The green plug here, just squeeze both sides and pull out, there is a latch on the right hand side only.



Seat out and laid on the new living room carpet- no oil involved, so this job can be done inside where it's warm



Now it's time to remove the perimeter clips underneath. Tricky to describe, but push the fabric (leather) away from the metal, then down and they will come away. Start at one side of the rear, and work around towards the other side. There are also the two plastic cable guides that hold the tabs of fabric in place. These are a little tight but pull out too, easier with a trim removal tool.



With the plastic clips on the edge removed, left the metal pan up and remove the long U strip at the back. The metal has sharp edges, so proceed with caution- blood on the carpet is not an option here!



Two parts separated, remove the thin fluffy sheet and put aside for re-assembly later.



Start to separate the foam from the cover.



Here you can just about make out the hog rings holding the cover to the foam. The foam base has four steel rods moulded into it which the rings are fixed to. Easiest way to remove is to cut along the line where they are and pull them out with rings still attached to the cover.



Two halves apart, with hog rings and steel rods attached to the cover. Now it's just a matter of pulling out the rods, then splitting the hog rings and removing. This is where two pairs of pliers come in handy.



Now we're onto the new cushion and new heater pad. The old heater pad was still working fine, but as it's stuck to the cushion with some strong double sided tape type stuff, would have been a pain to clean up and re-use. Best to buy a fresh one!



New heater pad stuck to the cushion. Start at the back where the cable is, then work forward to the front. Finally, stick down the bolster parts at the side. Don't stretch the heater pad, just hold it in place and peel off the backing of the double sided tape and lay the pad down as you go. It should look like your old seat when you're done.



Ok, then it's hog ring or zip tie time! I bought hog ring pliers when I did the BMW seat, but found them an absolute nightmare to get accurate. I felt like I needed 3 hands to use them, and after missing the target with quite a few and putting one through my thumb, gave up and went down the zip tie route! Before any one kicks off saying the zip ties have 'lumps' in which hog rings don't, the lumps on the zip ties will be buried so deep in the cushion, your behind will never actually get anywhere near them, so this isn't an issue. They are also more than strong enough for the job as they are just there to hold the cover to the cushion. When you sit in the seat, you actually relive some of the tension on them, as opposed to putting any more strain on.
Start with the two sets of 3 in the middle of the cushion, thread them loosely as below, then pull taught. Don't yank them tight as they need a small amount of freedom to move. Once taught, snip the tails off with your side cutters.



Once the centre ones are done, move onto the sides and do them same.



When all your hog rings or zip ties are done, pull the cover back over the cushion and place the thin fluffy sheet ( I assume this helps to stop the foam speaking against the metal pan) back on the base of the cushion.



Place the metal pan back on the cushion and push/pull the foam into place around the edges. Then put the plastic clips back in place. As the new cushion is slightly firmer than the old one, this was a bit more awkward than removal! Again, start with one at the front and work back on each side from there. Finally, hook the U-strip back into place at the back. Again, mind the sharp edges on the metal pan!



Et, voila, base looking (and feeling) good as new. Fit back into the car, plugging in the heater element first and fitting the cables under the seat back into their clips before bolting down. Don't forget to bin all the old parts and bits from the living room carpet, and give it a quick once over with your choice of vacuum cleaner