I'm doing the EGR blanking in couple days, just wanted to make sure this is correct before hand, going to follow the good step by step from forum.

My question is
Large blanking plates at top.
Does the bottom sequence go 1) rubber seal/o ring first, 2) gasket, 3) blanking plate.

Sorry if seems dumb but just wanted to clarify.

Yes, big ones at the top, though the upper blanks are optional - you can just blank at the bottom and leave the pipes there. That option is more discrete, but since discretion isn't specifically needed at present, I kind of prefer the full method (also gets the stubs out of the intake).

No O-rings needed at the bottom, just the gasket. The upper plates often use double O-rings though.

A bent bit of metal/wire to hold the lower plate and gasket in place while you put the opposite screw in is a great help.  Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver

Great thanks a lot, Stubs... Is that the Butterfly part? Prise CAREFULLY the shaft, remove butterfly and replace shaft.

The stubs are the end pieces of the pipes that stick into the butterfly housing (and when you take them out you'll see how covered in soot they are) - my logic is that removing them will give a slight improvement in airflow, but I don't for a moment think it makes more than a tiny, tiny , tiny difference (and if one wanted to get rid of them with the pipes in place, they could always be cut off anyway).  Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver

Ahh, ha,ha I see, just looked at the diagram, the stubs really don't look healthy on the picture, with the butterfly is it just a case of easing shaft out, removing butterfly and replace shaft..

My advice, just fit the lower plates and leave the pipes in place, then everything will look standard, this maybe of importance at MOT time.

You must remove the butterfly  In Spain - 2018 F Pace - Frightened away from the Sports due to crank failures
Gone - A couple of RRS, A couple of Disco's. However thinking of another Sport.

Last edited by SRE on Mon Dec 21 2015 9:32am. Edited 1 time in total

Gilly1 wrote:

Ahh, ha,ha I see, just looked at the diagram, the stubs really don't look healthy on the picture, with the butterfly is it just a case of easing shaft out, removing butterfly and replace shaft..

Yep. Some people occasionally report difficulties getting it out, but I haven't had an issue with the few I've done. I also suggest you take the opportunity to pop out the butterfly housing (just carefully maneuvre it out) and clean out all the soot with a bit of diesel.  Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver

Also think about a BAS remap and blank, now that does make a 2.7 fly. In Spain - 2018 F Pace - Frightened away from the Sports due to crank failures
Gone - A couple of RRS, A couple of Disco's. However thinking of another Sport.

I've done errr quite a few sometimes the shaft is really tight to get out.
I've found that if you look at the butterfly valve itself, right in the centre, there are two very small plastic bit that effectively hold it in place on the shaft. Using a screwdriver to loosen one of those makes it much easier when they're not playing ball.

Will see if I have a pic..... Bodsys Brake Bible
Software Updates Contact me
RRS Timed Heat/Remote kits - Contact me
BAS Engine Re-maps/ EGR Blank EuIII and EuIV
Clock On The Dash/ SNOTM /3Flash / BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes read\ Gearbox Reset
See it HERE

Great help/advice, thanks all.
SRE... Is that BASremaps, I was considering that option but I don't really want to put any extra unnecessary stress on transmission,

Who says it's unnecessary?

Seriously though, if the transmission is in a decent state, a good remap like a BAS one is deigned to be safe and reliable. The key is a reputable map from the likes of BAS and Alive.  Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver

Ha, yes sorry my bad, always good to get more uummfff (unnecessary) was wrong choice of word, "extra stress"

I'm a bit stuck between Rock & a hard place at the moment regarding transmission, I think Iv got the TC noise/rattle,
I had mega flush thanks to Geoff, I also get very slight jolt/knock/jerk is the only way I can describe it sometimes when I get back on throttle when coming to junction or slow moving traffic if I don't come to complete stop. (If that makes sense) took it to couple Indy and GRGB but as always couldn't replicate or hear faults, they all took for drive and couldn't fault the Transmission.

Sounds like it could well be the TC, but not necessarily the whole box, but the bump could also just be play in the drivetrain or transfer box clutch calibration etc. What mileage? Was the oil OK, or smell burnt? Is it shifting well, and any faults on the box? The fact the gearbox has survived the flush and adaptive reset is one good sign. If it's the TC, I expect it'll make itself apparent sooner or later.  Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver

Your trans id designed to take the V8, so a 2.7 is not an issue, I ran the Pete Bell (BAS) remap on my last Sport, made the car drive like it should have done.
I also ran the Remap and EGR blanking patch
Best bet have a chat with Pete Bell. In Spain - 2018 F Pace - Frightened away from the Sports due to crank failures
Gone - A couple of RRS, A couple of Disco's. However thinking of another Sport.

124000, trans oil was dark but not burnt, shifts good, kick down works as should, not had any trans faults, lights, only other thing Iv noticed is when select reverse its not instant there is a split second delay to engage.

With the mileage I'm thinking when I get TC done I just as well get recon box at same time.

Will do SRE,