Hi,

I am new to the board and RRS. I have just got my first one a 2008 3.6 TDV8.

Two questions re servicing:

Does the engine have cam belts of chains? If belts at what mileage should they be changed?

Is the auto box sealed for life or what mileage do you replace the ATF?

Thanks for your help in advance guys.  What doesn't kill you only makes you stronger!

2008 RRS TDV8 330Bhp 800nm

Hi and welcome to the site Mam. 3.6 TDV8's have timing chains NOT belts, Gearbox is supposed to be good for 10 years but it appears thats not the case as a few members have had theirs flushed around 60k or about 6 years which has shown great improvements.

Ady 555 wrote:

Hi and welcome to the site Mam. 3.6 TDV8's have timing chains NOT belts, Gearbox is supposed to be good for 10 years but it appears thats not the case as a few members have had theirs flushed around 60k or about 6 years which has shown great improvements.

Thanks Ady,

I think I will get the gearbox done just to be on the safe side. What doesn't kill you only makes you stronger!

2008 RRS TDV8 330Bhp 800nm

A fellow member (awd) had his flushed recently and it improved his motor, i'm sure he will be along soon to add his input.

Is there anything else I should be thinking about or looking out for?

Thanks What doesn't kill you only makes you stronger!

2008 RRS TDV8 330Bhp 800nm

Now where do i start....... How long have you got
Only kidding..... TDV8's alternators are a weak spot, if that fails it usually takes the battery out with it at the same time as there isn't much warning if it should fail. Suspension bushes, common accross the entire range Electrical glitches, again common accross the range, my advice, make sure you have got a very good warranty in place, you may need it. These are just a few issues with the sport but away from its faults when they are running right there isn't much out there to beat them.

Madasmad wrote:

Is the auto box sealed for life or what mileage do you replace the ATF?

Hi,
Most people agree that replacing the ATF and filter is good practice. As for at what mileage to do it there doesn't seem to be much agreement.
The transmission specialist that changed my ATF last week reckons it should be about every 35,000 miles and they have plenty of experience. Remember it is preventative maintenance so do it ideally before you have a problem not afterwards.
My specialist sourced and fitted the ZF supplied steel sump conversion kit (ZF Part no. 1068 103 820). This has two advantages: firstly it is possible to fit it without having to unbolt the gearbox and engine mounts and jack the whole lot up to get the clearance required to fit the plastic sump with integral filter (same as the original) and secondly the steel sump has a replaceable paper filter so subsequent gearbox servicing is less of a hassle. It is said to be critically important to use only the correct fluid so I ordered 10 litres from site sponsors Duckworth parts. The specialist just drained and refilled without flushing so only used 6 litres (probably about 4 litres remains in the torque converter when gearbox is drained). Ideally I should have another drain and refill and filter change after a few more miles to make sure all the fluid is in good condition.
Has this cured my car's habit of seeming to momentarily find neutral when cruising at about 65-70? Well it is too early to say but it has been OK so far.
Cheers, hope you find this helpful 2008 MY Java Black TDV8 HSE

Paddi wrote:

Madasmad wrote:

Is the auto box sealed for life or what mileage do you replace the ATF?

Hi,
Most people agree that replacing the ATF and filter is good practice. As for at what mileage to do it there doesn't seem to be much agreement.
The transmission specialist that changed my ATF last week reckons it should be about every 35,000 miles and they have plenty of experience. Remember it is preventative maintenance so do it ideally before you have a problem not afterwards.
My specialist sourced and fitted the ZF supplied steel sump conversion kit (ZF Part no. 1068 103 820). This has two advantages: firstly it is possible to fit it without having to unbolt the gearbox and engine mounts and jack the whole lot up to get the clearance required to fit the plastic sump with integral filter (same as the original) and secondly the steel sump has a replaceable paper filter so subsequent gearbox servicing is less of a hassle. It is said to be critically important to use only the correct fluid so I ordered 10 litres from site sponsors Duckworth parts. The specialist just drained and refilled without flushing so only used 6 litres (probably about 4 litres remains in the torque converter when gearbox is drained). Ideally I should have another drain and refill and filter change after a few more miles to make sure all the fluid is in good condition.
Has this cured my car's habit of seeming to momentarily find neutral when cruising at about 65-70? Well it is too early to say but it has been OK so far.
Cheers, hope you find this helpful

[/quote]
Thanks Paddi,

Did you use a LR specialist or an auto gearbox one?[/quote]

I think for automatic transmissions it is best to use a company that specialises exclusively in this area so after a bit of research on the net and ringing round I chose Stephens Engineering in Thundridge Hertfordshire (website: http://www.stephensengineering.co.uk/) it's a family business been running for 40 odd years. Best described as 'old school' and slightly eccentric. The office and customer waiting room are stuffed with interesting bits of broken transmissions some cutaway so you can see the internals. The workshop seems to be always busy which ought to be a good sign. Difficult to assess a company on one job but fingers crossed all is OK so far. 2008 MY Java Black TDV8 HSE

Paddi wrote:

Good luck. Sure you can find a specialist locally. Update on my transmission is that it still did the finding neutral momentarily at about 80. Next step is to have the adaptation cleared. If that doesn't work then a software update (reflash) and that doesn't work  2008 MY Java Black TDV8 HSE