Mine has now run 7000 kms.
Any views on changing before 1st service? 2010 RRS TDV6 3,0, Bali Blue/Tan/Anigre/Dynamic Pack/Logic7/Keyless entry/Paddle

Absolutely! If you change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles you will definitely extend the life of the motor. Motor oil does not "wear out" it's the additive pack which consists of viscosity extenders,anti-foaming etc. (to mention a few) that wear out do to shearing. In addition the combustion process contaminates the oil which results in the build up of acids that lead to sludge. I was in the fluid maintenance business for quite sometime. As such, I would pull up our data base of customers that had in excess of 250,000 miles on their vehicles. These customers all had one thing in common, they serviced their vehicles every 3,000 miles religiously. By the way most of them were driving your basic Detroit Iron, such as Chevrolets and Ford delivery vehicles, which is perhaps an even more impressive testimonial to responsible fluid maintenance.

Totally agree with Davis, we do oil changes on our boats at ever 200 hours not the 250 as recommended, they are exceeding 10,000 hours,the boats are being sold before the engines need rebuilding, but they are still going strong after selling them.

It wont harm the engine if you do it  some of my Previous cars
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P38 Range Rover Autobiography
RRS 2.7 HSE Silver
RRS TDV8 HSE silver
FFRR Vogue black
Disco3 HSE silver
RRS 2.7 HSE silver
RRS 3.0 HSE BALTI BLUE
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current vehicles
RRS 3.0 L494 Autobiography
Audi R8 V10 Spyder
AC Cobra
Landrover Defender 90
Landrover Defender 110
Suzuki Jimney

Ditto to the above. It's a well known fact that the engine life will be extended by changing the oil as frequently as possible. It cant be changed too much, and I believe changing the filter is every bit as important as the oil itself. A new engine will be bedding itself in so there's going to be more damaging oil-bound particles in the first few thousand miles than at only other time. Change the oil and filter!

Only worth extending the engine life if you plan on keeping her beyond 100,000 miles I guess. Anyone changing oil early but who plan on trading their vehicle after say 3 years and 50,000 miles is probably wasting their money ...IMHO RRS TDv8 HSE Rimini
Disco 4 TDv6 HSE Ipanema
Defender 90, 200tdi CSW

I totally agree, this is all about long-term care for your engine!

True enough, it is about long-term care however, if you do change the oil frequently and decide to sell early you can be most assured of a quicker sale at top dollar

DAVIS wrote:

True enough, it is about long-term care however, if you do change the oil frequently and decide to sell early you can be most assured of a quicker sale at top dollar

Why? Don't think I've ever had someone ask me how many times I've changed the oil when I've sold. All people want to see is that you have the log bokks / service books and had the dealer do all the services at the right time....at least in Australia! RRS TDV6 Bluetooth, VR, Roof

During a private party transaction, your ability to show beyond responsible care of your "ride" speaks volumes. I have sold many a car and without fail, sold them fast and was able to command top market price

DAVIS wrote:

During a private party transaction, your ability to show beyond responsible care of your "ride" speaks volumes. I have sold many a car and without fail, sold them fast and was able to command top market price

I agree Davis. I would be very impressed with an owner who'd clearly demonstrated they'd meticulously maintained a vehicle if was considering a potential purchase. Oil changes do no harm, do them as often as practicable.  MY12 SDV6 HSE Sumatra/Ebony/Piano/Sidesteps/Privacy/Overfinch Olympus/JLR DRLs

I actually disagree with all the comments in here.

With newer oils, and such a large sump of 8.5 quarts there is no need for a oil chnage till 7500 miles. Oils have since improved since the days of our parent.

OIls today have agents that are activted by heat and other conditions. When you change your oil, the new oils usually contain a cleaner that could strip the film that protects your engine. After each oil change, your additives are not "activated". It usually takes about 2000 miles to be fully activated - longer if you are doing short drives as the oil is not getting heated long enough. The wear metals are are the highest during this period - meaning you get the most wear on your engine. It levels off after this period.

I would say for those that really want to take care of their car - switch to a synthetic oil such as Mobil 1 Extend performance., and do you oils changes at 7500. The Castrol GTX is a good oil too considering the large sump we have.

To really know when you need an oil chnage - it would be wise to do oil anaysis every few thousand miles. This shows you the wear of the oils and how the protection is holding up. For those in the US you can send it to Blackstone labs - www.blackstone-labs.com

I started doing this on all my cars and realized I was doing more harm than good by doing frequent oils chnages. The oil barrons don't really talk about this, and the dealerships want you to come in as there is more revenue for them.

I intend running my oil analysis every 1500 miles to know how the oil is holding up. Will pass this on to anyone else unless you folks think I'm nuts ...

I though that all RRS's came from the factory with synthetic engine oil in them...................... My TDv6 does about 9000 miles a year and it gets an annual oil change whether it needs it or not at the dealership. The oil is VERY black by that time. I did carry out an intermediate oil change myself at 3000 miles just so that any metallic bits from the new engine didn't get acrried too far back into the rest of the motor, it also "burned" about 2 litres of lube in the first 6 months and since then it hasn't used a drop. 2020 Pangea Green 1st Edition D240 New Defender 110 is here and loving it
2018 Melting Silver Mini Countryman PHEV - soon to be replaced
2015MY Corris Grey SDv6 HSE Dynamic, the best car I have ever owned, totally reliable only a cou0le of rattles in 3 years, now no longer in my care
Also in my garage is a 1996 TDi300 Defender 90 County HT made into a fake CSW

Not sure about LR yet - but usually the upper end cars tend to come with a "formulated oil" for the factory fill for the break in period. These cars suggest not changing it - not sure if LR is the same.

I don't think you can go by the color as a scientific method of changing your oil. Oil consumptions could be a liitle higher in the break in period as the seal etc get seated etc.

The graphite and iron blocked TDv6 engines seem to absorb oil in the first few months of life, during "running-in" I assume the TDv8 will be the same as it is basically a TDv6 with 2 extra cylinders. The blackness is common with diesel engines due to all the particulate they produce, within even a few miles after an oil change the oil will be black again 2020 Pangea Green 1st Edition D240 New Defender 110 is here and loving it
2018 Melting Silver Mini Countryman PHEV - soon to be replaced
2015MY Corris Grey SDv6 HSE Dynamic, the best car I have ever owned, totally reliable only a cou0le of rattles in 3 years, now no longer in my care
Also in my garage is a 1996 TDi300 Defender 90 County HT made into a fake CSW