Ok spoke to supplier of the kit and apparently it is melting from the terminal?

Can someone please advise if this is to do with the below step that isn't showed on most forums im having a guess that its making the motor arc on the pipe?, is it the case of slackening the nut and turning the terminal, do you turn it towards the block or back towards the wheel well.

From the disco3 forum so I'm getting a short:

"Interesting the lr bulletin gets you to change the angle of the starter motor wire using an 8mm drill bit as a gauge. I think this is due to the proximity of the new pipe above it.

I followed the bulletin as it said without moving the terminal there was a risk of damage to vehicle. Did everyone else do that too? Am i right in my thinking of risk of short?"



Thanks

Well, that’s shocking. I’ve done a few of these now and never run into that. I don’t do the drill bit like they show, just eyeball it and make sure nothing is close.

That looks like something had to be right up on it. I mean we’re talking a 12V system, it’s not exactly shooting lightning bolts.

Am I wrong in that it looks dented? Definitely something weird going on there. 2011 RRS HSE Luxury 3.0 TDV6 Fuji White on Ebony/Ivory
Born and raised in So Cal. Moved to the UK in 2018 for a few years. Now in Poland and looking at moving back to the UK.

Well got it all sorted my arms and hands are shredded.

I adjusted the terminal on Monday after work couldn't get the live terminal removed from the starter cause it's so awkward so did the adjustment with the starter loose doubled and triple checked the 8mm gap.

I fitted the new pipe yesterday although I'd done it before it's still a right pain 3 hours especially getting that 8mm bolt back into the block to hold the new pipe, fitted the starter motor and checked the clearance and I could actually see the terminal (should of took a pic if I remember I'll add one when I service it next for anyone else) and the shape is exactly the same as the hole it made, it must be the amps as I'm guessing it needs quite a bit of power to get it started and acted as a arc welder on the new pipe, clearance now is about 10mm from it.

A fresh oil change as I didn't know how much it had lost I think about 2 litres and it was on stands so wasn't going to risk starting it and all good.

Cleaned all the undertrays with brake cleaner and took it for a drive no issues although I did stop a few times to double check it's really made a dramatic difference before it was sluggish even below the second turbo range but now it's like a new car I would imagine the oil collecting in the intercooler was affecting turbo 1.

I've just got to wash it as the back is covered in oil and deal with the smell of the oil being burnt off the block but I'm going away on Friday 3 hour drive so that will help.

The bulletin says to do a dpf clean I've got a maxiAP200 that can do it but then app it's says it's a two man job anyone know why this is?

It’s a two man job if you mind looking at the device while driving. If you don’t mind, just run it and occasionally monitor the soot level. When it hits the green it’ll have you stop and exit the program. Pretty straightforward really. The last car I ran it on took around 20-30 minutes of driving to complete. 2011 RRS HSE Luxury 3.0 TDV6 Fuji White on Ebony/Ivory
Born and raised in So Cal. Moved to the UK in 2018 for a few years. Now in Poland and looking at moving back to the UK.