Good day.

After already 6 month the “service required “ light came on so I guess it’s time for the half year oil change.
Because I would like to start doing these small maintenance tasks myself, I have the following doubt.
Is this the correct oil to be used on a RRS 3.0TDV 258hp from 2016?

Thanks in advance


 SW

Sometimes it is not enough to do our best;
sometimes we must do what is required.

2005 RRS HSE 2.7 TDV6
Now: 2016 RRS HSE DYNAMIC 3.0 TDV6

Have a look at this;

https://www.rrsport.co.uk/forum/topic54933.html 2006 2.7 TDV6 HSE in Cairns Blue.

If you watch LR time you would know that anything ending 30 is bad news because 5 w30 specified for you vehicle is not made today with the same additives so use something ending 40 I use 15w40 Always listen to old people or when they die you will live on in ignorance.
The avatar is a picture of the man with a big cock.
Learned to 4x4 on 100 mile beach and Frazer Island QLD
Dont spend money on old cars you will never get it back

I would stick to manufacturer ex recommended oil. The numbers relate to temperature so unless you are in a very hot climate no need to change from what is recommended.

If the answer to all the so called problems with the 3.0L engine is simply change to 10w or 15w40 oil, why has L/R not issued a directive to dealer's and customers to change the grade of oil used and save themselves a lot of bad publicity and irate customers, goodwill gestures, warranty claims etc, but no, everyone is supposed to believe some self proclaimed "expert" on the web who knows best. Wonder what "expert" advice he has as to which oil I should use in my 5.0L.

Just use the grade oil specified by the manufacturer and have done with it.

Cheers
Col

SkyWalker wrote:

Good day.

After already 6 month the “service required “ light came on so I guess it’s time for the half year oil change.
Because I would like to start doing these small maintenance tasks myself, I have the following doubt.
Is this the correct oil to be used on a RRS 3.0TDV 258hp from 2016?

Thanks in advance

iTs not the 5w30 bit that matters but the numbers that come afterwards that indicate the sheer which should be over 3.5.

2x5L MANNOL TS-4 SHPD 15W40 ENGINE OIL ACEA E7/A3/B4 VOLVO VDS 3 RLD-2 M3275


Your car do what you like. Always listen to old people or when they die you will live on in ignorance.
The avatar is a picture of the man with a big cock.
Learned to 4x4 on 100 mile beach and Frazer Island QLD
Dont spend money on old cars you will never get it back

But you @pistonbroke said it was the 30 bit that mattered and to use 40????

The LR time guy uses 5w40 because it has the right additives that 30 does not .
My car My choice 15w40 Always listen to old people or when they die you will live on in ignorance.
The avatar is a picture of the man with a big cock.
Learned to 4x4 on 100 mile beach and Frazer Island QLD
Dont spend money on old cars you will never get it back

The problem with using your recommended E7/A3/B4 is that it will likely have higher levels of phosphor and sulphur in it. Whilst that's good for lubrication, it's not good for catalysts and DPFs. ACEA C is intended for engines with such post-combustion emissions control systems. C1 is low-SAPS and gives a shear of minimum 2.9, if you want over 3.5, C4 would do that, although C1 is what is recommended by the engine's manufacturer.

The 5W/30 bit doesn't determine the HTHS figure - a 5W/30 can have as good an HTHS as a 15W40. And the 5W30 will flow better in those early minutes when the oil is cold. That means it's going to get to places that need it better.

And the viscosity rating also tells you nothing about things like TBN - the ability of a particular oil to neutralise the acids created by fuel combustion. Again, different oils within a given grade will have more or less depending on manufacturer (and usually price, frankly - cheap oils are cheap for a reason). More would be better.

It really isn't as simple as "chuck in some other grade that a bloke on a youtube video said". 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Thank you for your responses.

To keep things easy, my goal is to just find exactly the same oil as LR is using on the yearly service.
The same as in brand, grade etc. Except for the price..
Already got the original oil filter.

As LR uses Gastrol and the cars user manual says 5W30 C1, I think I´m getting close.
But then you have this specific oil in a Teflon variant. Good or bad?
The oil has the LR engine oil specification STJLR.03.5005, but is this a general approved code for all LR cars or my RRS could have different code?

Thanks again. SW

Sometimes it is not enough to do our best;
sometimes we must do what is required.

2005 RRS HSE 2.7 TDV6
Now: 2016 RRS HSE DYNAMIC 3.0 TDV6

I think the only way to combat the broken crankshaft is to say when it get to 100k pull off the sump and change the big end bearings..easy on a 2.7.
You could then start to use this....

ebay item eBay Item No. 193072865151 Tungsten disulphide oil additive.

It also seem may failure follow cam belt changes which is caused by cracking of the oil pump in the tensioner area leading to loss of pressure Always listen to old people or when they die you will live on in ignorance.
The avatar is a picture of the man with a big cock.
Learned to 4x4 on 100 mile beach and Frazer Island QLD
Dont spend money on old cars you will never get it back

Quote:

It also seem may failure follow cam belt changes which is caused by cracking of the oil pump in the tensioner area leading to loss of pressure

Not quite

The 2.7 lump had a weak tensioner mount, which cracked, fell off and destroyed the engine

The 3.0 came with the uprated pump from the factory, and doesn't crack

Mickey... are you saying that all 2.7s of whatever year had the weak tensioner mount? Always listen to old people or when they die you will live on in ignorance.
The avatar is a picture of the man with a big cock.
Learned to 4x4 on 100 mile beach and Frazer Island QLD
Dont spend money on old cars you will never get it back

Most of them. The 2009 are probably ok.

The 2007 was a particularly bad year