Hi All,

I am suffering with stiff/ notchy steering. This happened last year and a quick spray around the U joint cured the issue, but the problem has now returned.

My question is, how simple is it to replace? I've seen a few You Tube videos on this topic, but haven't found one relating directly to a RRS. It looks simple enough from what I have seen, but could do with any info from anyone with an L320 who has successfully carried out this repair/ replacement.

I am hoping it can be done from underneath, without having to take out a load of stuff within the engine bay to get at the top bolt!!

Also, whilst I am thinking about it, does the position of the steering wheel matter when replacing?

Thanks for any advice/ guidance you may be able to offer.

UPDATE -

As others have mentioned, I removed the top left hand cover to aid access to the top bolt. It created a little more space but not a great deal. I undid the bolt (long extension on a ratchet) and used an extendable magnet to get it clear.

I then jacked up the car, placed it on an axle stand and removed the under tray and, from below I undid the torx bolt. One thing to note, I had to turn the steering slightly to improve access to this bolt. A tip here would be to have someone in the car to turn the wheel whilst you look/ line up the bolt for removal. I then had to give the joint a slight tap to help if off the steering rack shift. I was on my own initially and had to check the bolt position from underneath, get, up turn the wheel slightly then crawl underneath to check the position of the bolt. I was up and down several times trying to get the bolt in just the right spot!

Once the torx bolt was out, I then wiggled the column out from underneath. It was a bit of a faff, but it came out.

I then inserted the new one from underneath. Again, a bit of a faff but got it in.

I lined up and connected the top piece first. It was tricky getting it back on, it kept slipping down. To aid in this, I created a hook on the end of a piece of wire - 3 - 4mm (Thicker than a coat hanger). My 'assistant' aka the Mrs, came home and I roped her in to help. She lined up the shaft from above whilst I pushed up from below. It flew on and I used the same magnet to position the bolt in the hole (I bought new bolts top and bottom).

Getting the bottom on was chuffing hard. The collapsible part of the column is quite stiff and trying to pull down whilst guiding it onto the steering rack was a challenge. Many swear words later, I got it on. Another tip here would be to gently ease open the gap on the steering rack end of the column prior to fitting. It will make slotting it on far easier. As I had already installed the column and bolted the top, I chose to ease it open from underneath. Again, a proper ball ache but I got there in the end.

New bottom bolt was tricky to get started but eventually flew in.

After putting everything back in place, I took her out for a test drive. No warning lights for steering and a silky smooth feeling when turning the wheel. It is remarkable how much better it feels.

All in all, including tea breaks, a spot of lunch, time spent swearing and time spent warning the car I would sell her if she did not co-operate, it took me 4 hours!!!!! There was probably an hour of eating and drinking along with a couple of 'cooling off moments', so about 3 hours. Now I know how to do it, I could probably half the time - as mentioned, opening out the gap on the lower connection will help immensely.

The new column wasn't an original Land Rover part, but one listed as OEM from Rimmer Bros. Column, bolts and delivery came in at £183. I also had to order a torx socket - I chose to buy a set from Machine Mart for about £20, so £203 and my time.

I did try to take pics from underneath but I could not get the camera to focus properly and so gave up!!

Good luck!

Click image to enlarge

I've seen a write up recently on this,,, look in the search function or " how to's ". I'm sure the steering wheel has to be set straight ahead and not moved while it is being removed an replaced,, but you may have to turn it slightly to loosen and tighten the securing bolts while it is fully in place 2010 RRS, TDV8
bali Blue / colour coded
side steps / flappy paddles
black perforated leather
22" overfinch
heated everything, TV,fridge ...... now with gold calipers and mud flaps !( black mud flaps that is) !!
Many years ago,,,,, 1955 series 1 landie , sometimes wish I had kept it

One for a D3
https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/steering-st...+%2Bcolumn
I have no idea how close to a L320 it will be, but it may help.