Rob, the way I looked at it was:-
The reservoir is always in the same place so that pipe should always be the same,
The valve block is always in the same place,
The two things that vary are the anti roll bar connections and the connection from the pump.
There only seem to be two anti rollbar types, one has connections where the pipes both join the bar in the same side direction, the other which I have has the pipes one from the top one from the bottom if that makes sense. See pic.



Some sets have a flexible hose attached to the pipe from the pump and some like mine have a coupling, see pic,



I think if you determine those two things you will be a bit further on.
When I searched for part numbers for sets different sites showed different drawings for the same part number so in the end I took a chance, I think it is the sets that have the right connections for our type of arb that you will not find available.

I am new to range rovers so if any of my assumptions are wrong and anyone knows better please feel free to chime in!

Let me know if you clarify what connections you have, Phil.

Hi, any guidance on the slight body lift please? This is a job i need to attempt myself to replace the front Ace pipes on my 4.2 sc. Any tips on what needs disconnecting etc would be great please

Hi, if you are replacing the just front pipes and not the anti roll bar bushes you will only need to lift the drivers side front corner but I would loosen the other body bolts to avoid bending anything.
So remove the front bumper, loosen drivers front wheel bolts, Jack up front of the car as high as possible and put axle stands under the chasis.
10 body mounting bolts:- remove 3 front drivers side bolts, back off the bolt behind the rear drivers wheel arch about 10mm but leave in place. Loosen passenger side bolts slightly to avoid bending anything, loosen front ones more.
Remove drivers front wheel, arch liner and body tether on top left of wheel arch.
Remover drivers side sill cover so you can place a jack under the sill, I put a block of wood between jack and sill.
Jack up the body until you can remove the body mount rubber behind the wheel arch where the pipes enter the gap between the body and chasis, this will make it easier to feed the pipes through the gap. Put an axle stand under the body and make sure everything is secure.
Drain the ace fluid reservoir as much as possible.
Try getting the pipes out of the block!
If you have a new set of pipes you will have to split them to get them in place so make sure you mark them.
Good luck!!

4 years ago my friend bough a 2010 and the front ACE pipes were so rusty I dare not touch them.
So I coated them with genuine marine epoxy ..soaks into rust while it takes 24 hrs to set. So far he has had no leaks . So if yours look bad but are not leaking you know what to do. Always listen to old people or when they die you will live on in ignorance.
The avatar is a picture of the man with a big cock.
Learned to 4x4 on 100 mile beach and Frazer Island QLD
Dont spend money on old cars you will never get it back

I thought it might be useful to repeat here what I've mentioned on another thread: to round off my experiences with JLR and the part being out of stock for over a year. I got the car back yesterday, all fixed.

I managed to fit a different part # that fitted perfectly, without any alterations at all. It is Genuine OEM LR019908 - Land Rover Kit - Repair (LR019908) part for Range Rover Sport 2005 - 2009. Authentic Land Rover Part. It fits my 2012 with no issues, no cutting pipes or anything and its in stock with JLR on their parts website. The only difference was a slightly different pipe shape to the ACE fluid reservoir. That said, it didn't require any alteration to attach it.

If you have the time, do examine the technical drawings for your actual model and this part to make sure its right for your car. I went through every part # for mine and that pipe to the ACE reservoir was the only mismatch and you could order it separately if needed. If you're curious, its the part numbered 5673C on both drawings. As I said, it fitted when offered up without issue. The model in stock was missing a couple of bobbins and nuts that are included in the other part number. All obtainable.

The JLR parts website is useful as you can examine each of the drawings and drill down into the components to get the individual part numbers for each component in the kit. That was how I found out that "5673C" on the two drawings was not the same LR part # in each kit and what the parts not included were and that I could order them easily from anywhere. Everything else was identical.

This is a picture of LR014592:



This is a picture of LR019908:



Here's the link to the JLR part:
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/lr019908-tube.html

Don't get caught out with this back order nonsense for LR014592 (out of stock for over a year). I'm furious with JLR for having so many different part #'s for basically the same part with no real purpose.

Thanks to @philndeb, @britplumber and others though. Without their thinking on this, I would have been totally f ed! Cheers,

Stuart.
RRS 2012 HSE 5.0 S/C Zermatt Silver.
RRS 2005 4.2 S/C First Edition Rimini Red- Gone but not forgotten
Defender 2005 TD5 XS Black - Gone
Freelander 2006 HSE Blue - Gone

Really helpful and thanks for taking the time to post ! Hopefully my ACE pipes are all good, but you never know..