Good afternoon peeps,
Fun evening yesterday. Wife got in the car, started up fine, lots of mechanical flapping noises, car wet itself all over the drive. Warning message to stop the engine due to no charging.

Upon inspection, found the water pump had fallen off?! and obviously thrown the belt.

I found top bolt missing, bottom two sheared off.
Luckily managed to remove both.
New pump on order, coolant on order. Any idea where to get new bolts from? I can get normal bolts. Will they do? Does anyone have torque settings for them?

Has this happened to anyone else?

I can only conclude that the top bolt worked itself out, and the remaining two couldn't hold the tension of the belt?

10Nm for the pump bolts, 25Nm for the pulley bolts. According to the workshop manual.

Manual here: https://www.mediafire.com/file/t7a6drmb6m4irjw/RRSL320WSM2013.rar

According to image here: https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/water-pump-11665-c.asp the bolts are these ones: https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/ryg500220-bolt-m6-x-20mm.html 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Can happen after the cam belt has been done. And someone has loosened the wrong bolts and forgot to tighten

At least it was the water pump and an oil pump failing.  2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Thank you very much for your assistance.

I managed to get it back together, and it's still there.

I spoke with Bell Automotive in Deeside. Very helpful guys. Paul and Danny.
They were not surprised when I explained what had happened.
Given that I had just replaced the inlet manifolds (both split) they pointed out that two bolts are very close together under the timing cover and above the water pump.

Apologies to reopen an old topic, but mine has just done the same thing - did the timing belt recently and am sure i never touched any of the water pump bolts, but two seem to have sheered and the third bent open.

Just wondering @cardicowboy how you managed to get the snapped studs out? just using a stud extractor (easy-out)?
i can barely see one of the bottom ones and can't see the top at all....may have to take the timing cover off again to get at it.

Luckily for me one just unscrewed, but the other was quite tight, but used a small chisel to tap it round and round. It came eventually.

I would recommend getting a set of left handed drill bits people think I'm joking when I mention these, but....if you need to drill out for an extractor anyway, and as the torque setting isn't stupidly high, if it picks up on the drill bit it'll just unscrew.

A cheap set is about £10-15

Many thanks - have just bought everything i can find on amazon to get here tomorrow. Will likely try easy outs if i can manage to drill a straight hole.

Have also just bought a new pump as the impeller seems to have got bent on its way out.

Am going to blame the cold weather for the snapped bolts - will replace them with stainless or high tensile just in case...

Just to round out this saga of mine....no snapped stud in the top hole so am now thinking i did accidentally remove it when undoing the cam belt cover....so blaming stupid rookie error.

Lower stud actually moved when trying to drill centre hole, so was easy to unwind with even the cheapest, nastiest screw extractors (used the LH drill end to catch it and unwind it). Still going to change to SS bolts rather than the originals, but they obv. will be harder to drill out if they do snap in the future.

Two things to share in case it helps anyone else:
1) Water pump that came out - not sure if original - had a horribly cheap pressed steel impeller that bent. Replacement was a NAPA (wanted the SKF one but time didn't allow it). Not heard of them but has a good cast impeller so expect it to be better.
2) I'm useless at drilling straight (so my old man has been telling me for 40yrs) so used a hinge centreing bit which just fitted in the hole and started the drill bit for me.

Hope the above helps someone at least.

Now i have to find out why it's still showing low coolant when seems to be full and all air should be out by now....

Just a tip, if possible after removing a stud, always run a tap down the hole to refresh the threads and as a final check when fitting new bolts, make sure the hole is deep enough to prevent the fastener bottoming out and giving the illusion of tightness, easy to do if the fastening is in a awkward spot.
Dont ask how I know these things. RRS HSE Dynamic SDV6 2014

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