My interior has been re connolised but they made a bad job of the drivers seat cover outer edge.
On previous LRs I have swopped the seat cushions as this puts the bad part from the drivers seat on the inner edge of the passenger seat where its not noticeable and gets little wear . The as new edge of the passenger seat comes into the wear zone on the drivers side,
Am I right in thinking that the seat cushions are secured with 4 bolts from below and these can be accessed without removing the seat ? Always listen to old people or when they die you will live on in ignorance.
The avatar is a picture of the man with a big cock.
Learned to 4x4 on 100 mile beach and Frazer Island QLD
Dont spend money on old cars you will never get it back

Yes, but they are torx drive and can be a bit of a pain to undo, make sure you get the torx bit well located and straight, I binned them on mine and used flange headed setscrews instead.

Cheers
Col

Thanks for that Col
I could just re connolise the seats ( done the whole interior on my Jag) but moving the seats puts new leather where it shows. Always listen to old people or when they die you will live on in ignorance.
The avatar is a picture of the man with a big cock.
Learned to 4x4 on 100 mile beach and Frazer Island QLD
Dont spend money on old cars you will never get it back

Something in the back of my mind seems to think the inner and outer edges of the seat cushion are not both covered in leather,,, the inner edge that basically rubs against the centre console when the seat moves is more of a cloth material making them non interchangeable. I could well be wrong also,, memory isn't as good these days so the missus says. I have had the seat Base off mine to renew the cushion and heater but can't remember. I would have checked but don't have the car at home just now. 2010 RRS, TDV8
bali Blue / colour coded
side steps / flappy paddles
black perforated leather
22" overfinch
heated everything, TV,fridge ...... now with gold calipers and mud flaps !( black mud flaps that is) !!
Many years ago,,,,, 1955 series 1 landie , sometimes wish I had kept it

You are right ( ) but dependent on the condition of the material it may look ok . remember if you have an ugly wife you dont notice after a while . Always listen to old people or when they die you will live on in ignorance.
The avatar is a picture of the man with a big cock.
Learned to 4x4 on 100 mile beach and Frazer Island QLD
Dont spend money on old cars you will never get it back

Checked and the screws seem very accessible ...the edge on the inside is swade in the right colour and clearly in unused condition, I think it will look fine as only a 2 inch strip is visible when the door is open;
Will give it a go when the weather improves as I have to re build the edge of the drivers seat .
PS re connolising is easy just like spraying a car ....sand it ..fill it ....sand it and spray Always listen to old people or when they die you will live on in ignorance.
The avatar is a picture of the man with a big cock.
Learned to 4x4 on 100 mile beach and Frazer Island QLD
Dont spend money on old cars you will never get it back

My top tip would be to undo the bolts that hold the seat runners in place and then tip the seat backwards whilst still in the car. That will give you much better access to the torx bolts that hold the base in. They really are made of cheese and you will thank me in spades !

Mind you, you don't know how much of a $£"%$£ they are to get out if you use my method, so maybe go with the seat in situ and then wish you'd used my method

It takes 5 mins to take the seat runner bolts out and they're hidden behind plastic shrouds which pop off easily enough.

Top tip two is to replace them with new, or better still, Allen headed bolts. Either way a very small dab of copper grease helps them come out easily next time.

Good luck !

Just for interest, can anybody explain why Torx heads are used at all? Is it an assembly thing? I can appreciate that there is more contact area on the head/tool interface, but there is a limit anyway in the torque that can be applied to any screw thread which can be achieved by traditional Allen/Hex designs. RRS HSE Dynamic SDV6 2014

Nemo mortalium omnibus horus sapit

Found a Youtube on how to do this but the guy made a big job of it but it looked great ..job for the summer

Hex headed nut needs a lot of space for the spanner /socket ...Cross head not a good as Torx in manufacturing Always listen to old people or when they die you will live on in ignorance.
The avatar is a picture of the man with a big cock.
Learned to 4x4 on 100 mile beach and Frazer Island QLD
Dont spend money on old cars you will never get it back

Not really difficult to get the screws out,,, take off the kick plate from the front of the seat and do the front two,,, the other two are easily done from the rear footwell 2010 RRS, TDV8
bali Blue / colour coded
side steps / flappy paddles
black perforated leather
22" overfinch
heated everything, TV,fridge ...... now with gold calipers and mud flaps !( black mud flaps that is) !!
Many years ago,,,,, 1955 series 1 landie , sometimes wish I had kept it

Follow Gogsy’s advice and then re-read my post…

I think I can manage with the seat in place .....I am use to accessing bolts on my classic Jaguar Always listen to old people or when they die you will live on in ignorance.
The avatar is a picture of the man with a big cock.
Learned to 4x4 on 100 mile beach and Frazer Island QLD
Dont spend money on old cars you will never get it back

You don't really need to loosen the actual seat, just remove the plastic trim bit at the front and use the switches to raise/tilt it. The original torx screws are made of pretty soft crap which is why I replaced mine, plenty of room to get a spanner or allen key in there to do them up, no different than trying to get a torx bit in there.

Cheers
Col

That's exactly what I did Col when I changed the foam in the base of the drivers seat a few months ago. To be honest it's really easy.

Many thanks

Craig 2010 RRS 3.6 TDV8 HSE Galway Green