2010 5.0 SC.
I have a leak on the front ACE pipes at the front of the wheelarch, the part is unavailable and has been for some time.
I have found a set of pipes from an older car that seem to be in good condition and visually look the same.
One option is to cut out the leaking sections and use hydraulic fittings, however the whole old pipe is not in great condition and I am not confident I would get a good seal.
I have the parts to replace the anti roll bar bushes at the same time so my questions are :-
To be able to lift the body by 30 to 40mm required to replace the ACE pipes without cutting them and give better access to the roll bar bushes is it simply a matter of removing the 8 body fixing bolts or does other stuff have to be removed for a slight lift? Also is it possible to replace the rear ACE pipes and roll bar bushes with a slight lift, is it possible to bleed the ACE system on the driveway? Thanks in advance.

I think if you try the search function you will find your answer no need to lift the body if cutting out old pipes

Just as a point of interest the front ARC pipes on the 5.0L S/C are different to the oil burners, might only be the flexible hose part of the pipes though, but might be worth bearing in mind if you do find some decent second hand ones.

Cheers
Col

Yeah I am hoping to avoid cutting the pipes, as I am doing the arb bushes at the same time I think the extra space from lifting the body will help with both jobs.
Col, yeah some pipe sets have an extra flexible pipe permanently attached at the front, mine has a removable section and the second hand set appears to be the same, but I will not be sure until I get properly involved.

I do have a brand new set here for a 5.0L, I will dig them out and post a picture of them if it's of any help.

Cheers
Col

Col, that would be helpful, thanks.they have been out of stock here for months and noone has any idea when they will be available again. Do you have any idea about lifting the body slightly, I have read about people doing it but cannot find any info on what has to be removed when only lifting a small distance.
I am hoping to fill the replacement pipes as much as possible with fluid to avoid frying the pump on starting, perhaps allowing the engine to turn over but not start to circulate fluid? Cheers, Phil.

I'm afraid I can't really help with lifting the body to replace them, there is nothing wrong with mine, I bought a spare set "just in case" as they a in short supply and probably be obsolete at some time. There is definitely some post on the subject of lifting the body and bleeding the system, probably need to use variation of wording/description in the search function,

https://www.rrsport.co.uk/forum/topic55087...=arc+pipes

Cheers
Col

Col, definately a good idea to pick up a set for the future! I am going to take off the wheel arch liner and skid plates and try to visually confirm that the pipes are the same and go from there, cheers. Phil.

Couple of picture of new set of pipes for a 5.0L S/C, I would hazard a guess the only real difference between the Petrol and Diesel will be the part ringed.


















Cheers
Col

Cheers Col, I have started to strip it down and the pipes look the same as the second hand ones but I am not really happy with the hoses that attach to the roll bar ( they look like they have been kinked). The good thing is the replacement set came with the valve block so I have a spare in case of issues getting the pipes out. Cheers, Phil.

So I lifted the drivers side of the car and removed the Anti-roll bar bushes, the passenger side under the bush was very coroded so I decided to replace the roll bar.





I replaced the front bar and bushes, clamp and bolts.
I ended up gambling on a new set of front ace pipes that I wasn't 100% sure would match mine, I realised that the pipes that fit to the front bar were different so I took it to a local hydraulic shop and they changed the hoses to accept the old fittings.





I used the valve block from the second hand set as it seemed to be in better condition than my old one and was the same part number, then raised the rear of the body. The rear bar was leaking slightly and had the same corrosion under one bush so I decided to replace the rear bar and pipes.




All done on the drive with jacks and axle stands.

So everything is back together and seems to be OK, no warning lights so far, just have to give it a good clean now,
Thanks to Col for the input and YouTube for the videos!

Couple of pics all back together:- Still need to clean the wheels, new set of wheel nuts arrived today so I will do one at a time when I change the nuts.

Good job. Out of interest I am currently waiting on front pipes for my 2012 3v6. What pipes did you buy and did they just swap the arb ends from your old ones onto new ones. I have been waiting months on pipes and at a loss what to do.

Hi Rob, I used part no. RQA500018, not sure if your arb is the same as mine but it looks like there was one type for 05 to 09 and then one for 10 to 13, I have heard that the 5.0 SC was different but not 100%. just the hard metal pipes that attach to the front arb were different so the hydraulic shop swapped them for my old pipes., they also had to replace the hoses using compression fittings but it fitted fine and they said the fittings and hoses were rated for 3000psi.There may be more pics on my other post. I did buy a second hand set that seem to be in good condition and had the right fittings but the flexible pipes had been kinked so I didn't trust them, I think it could be a usable set if the flexible pipes were replaced.where are your pipes leaking? Are you doing the work yourself? Pics show the second hand set with kinked pipe. I have also ended up with a complete set of new anti roll bar bushes and clamps front and rears. Cheers, Phil





I just checked Maltings 4x4 website and it looks like your arb is the same as mine.

Hi phill thanks for quick reply. Looking on the parts store looks like my part number should be LR015144. In the parts picture shows a difference between pipe d between mine and yours. Mine are leaking at corner of wishbone where turns but there all quite corroded. Will be doing them myself if manage to get them. Was one thing that I noticed looked at individual part numbers of pipes in the older model that you ended up using and the only pipe that is a different part number from the newer model is pipe c which is the return according to parts diagram. Yet it was the arb pipes you had to adjust. Only saying as the older 3.6 ones only pipe c is different for mine so going to phone about see if anyone has stock of RQA500120.