I always check the oil level on mine first thing in the morning when the engine is cold from being stood over night, you can then do it from the drivers seat, and not bother with any of the rubbish about opening the bonnet etc, etc. If in doubt you could always read the owner's handbook, lists displayed messages and required quantity to top up and when. Unfortunately if it does have a faulty sensor there is no way of telling true quantity of oil unless you drain it and check the volume. You could always give it a oil change, on a 5.0L the quantity required for a oil and filter change is exactly 8 litres to refill then the full level will be spot on. A few litres of oil and filter is cheaper than a blown engine. I suppose the most logical thing to do first would be rectify any possible leak you may have in which case you may have to drain the oil anyway and go from there.



Cheers
Col

Hey Col,

So sorry for my rudeness in only just replying to your last msg now. I wrote this email a few days after i saw your last msg. But got waylaid down with a load of other things, (story of my life) so this is the first chance i’ve had to send this.

Thanks so much for sending the attachment and explaining how you check your oil level in the morning with cold oil. I feel such a fool. Even though i have the physical owners manual and the digital ones you uploaded for me, i think i panic first if i get any issues and come straight on here for support rather than looking through the owners manual. I cannot believe for the last few years i thought i had to wait for the engine to be at temperature and then wait for the 12mins to check the oil unbelievable the amount of time i have waisted when i could have just been checking it in morning straight away before starting the car .

Update on oil situation it hasn't gone below half way mark. And not having any warning lights relating to oil. So will just keep an eye on it now, but least with your attachment i know what to do if it does drop below till i find the leak.

Also my amber check engine light went out on its own. But i still went ahead with the purchase of IID tool to cover me for the future.

Good news i only had a few codes come up:

ACM - Audio System
Most - 1 fault - U2005-62 (2C) Vehicle speed - Algorithm based failure - signal compare failure

DDM-Driver Door MSCAN- 1 fault - B1164-15 (2E) Right mirror heater output - general electrical failure - circuit short to battery or open

PDM-Driver Door MSCAN- 1 fault - B1163-15 (2F) Left mirror heater output - general electrical failure - circuit short to battery or open

& Finally this code:

PCM- Engine Petrol HSCAN - 1 fault - P0171-00 (2 System too lean (bank 1) (this is the only code that worries) and i think this is one that probably triggered the amber check engine. A day after my last service the amber light came on and when i took it back to the garage, they told me that the guy doing the service hadn't put some sort of air filter back on properly and so the engine was receiving to much air which was effecting the mass air flow sensor and triggered the check engine amber light.

Not sure if this is same thing or not. I need to research all codes just not had time. I did find this forum link relating to the same code.

HTTPS://WWW.RRSPORT.CO.UK/FORUM/TOPIC59694.HTML?HIGHLIGHT=P017100

But will do some more research before i post for any advice on here.

When i cleared the codes, only the 2x codes below returned:

PDM-Driver Door MSCAN- 1 fault - B1163-15 (2F) Left mirror heater output - general electrical failure - circuit short to battery or open
&
PCM- Engine Petrol HSCAN - 1 fault - P0171-00 (2 System too lean (bank 1)

Anyway just wanted to say thanks again, will let you know if i solve how to fix these faults.

Ben 2012 RRS HSE 5.0 SUPERCHARGED Santorini Black

if all else fails as a last resort read the instructions/manual. The engine fault code in part refers to the MAF or possibly a induction system air leak, what you could do is swap the MAF's from side to side to see if it code swaps to P0172-00, the MAF's look different but they are identical just mounted at a different angle. If code changes it could indicate a faulty Maf. Only a suggestion. With the mirror personally I would pop the lens out and check if there is power to it with a multi-meter first to see if the element has failed first before I got to excited, won't be a fuse as would affect both mirrors, door window and central locking.

Cheers
Col

Thanks so much Col, for the advice on the poss MAF problem, i remember reading you suggested that in the previous forum going to try this out next week and will report back & thanks also for the advice on the wing mirror faults will look look at this to 🙌🏻 2012 RRS HSE 5.0 SUPERCHARGED Santorini Black

Hey Col,

Been a while i hope your well.

Thanks again for all the help in your last msg.

I thought its only fair to give you a quick update on what's happened since i last msg'd. And hopefully it might help someone else.

Code P0171-00 (6 System too lean (bank 1) Did what you said - removed both Mass airflow sensors (just blew on them as didn't have proper cleaner etc) and swapped around. After doing this i also noticed just one screw wasn't fully tightened down on the air filter box but i really can't see that causing this issue as the lid wouldn't lift at all, because there is about 6 screws total on the air filter box i think. Anyway after rescanning this fault code has gone and not come back, which is huge relief.

Codes B1163-15 (2F) & B1164-15 (2F) Left & right mirror heater output electric failure. Again tried what you said. Popped off just the left mirror glass as its the left fault code that is always there the right one seems slightly more sporadic. Tested with a multi-meter the connections to the mirror glass and and they were reading 14.68v with engine on and rear window heater on. Then saw this video on how to check the ohms on the mirror glass it was reading between 700 to 1000. So according to the video it just means the glass heater has died. Which out of the all the things it could have been, thats the best case scenario. As it looks like for none OEM heated glass is around £15 each side on ebay. So not the end of the world will order some of these soon just so i can have no codes on the car finally.
&T=455S

Weirdly another issue i was having previously was the oil level reading were going from half to full sporadically, but i must of checked the oil at least 20 times since i did the mass airflow sensor swap and now oil level has been at full level constantly ever since. Super strange as that P0171-00 (6 System too lean (bank 1) code should have absolutely nothing to do with the oil level sensor! but just happy the reading are staying the same now.
While we taking oil i noticed in a previous topic you were asking about Penrite, is that the oil you now use in the car?

New issue that has arisen since christmas, it seems i have a very slow coolant leak, i hadn't check the fluids (apart from oil) in months and suddenly got a low coolant level warning on the dash and the reservoir was empty. Checked on here and a lot of people had float issues, but mine reservoir was actually empty. I topped it up and it took 1ltr to get it back to max level. Been checking ever since and it seems to use from max fill line to minimum level line in about 2 hours of motorway driving. But super annoyingly no drips on floor to help pinpoint where its coming from. I have had a good look over with a torch etc. But can't seem to find any pools of dry antifreeze sitting anywhere. Online says to buy and do a pressure checker, but slightly worried doing this with my super novice skills. If you or anyone has any advice on how i can try and track it down. Or if there are any common coolant fail points on RRS SC's to look for? I'll search the whole forum in more details for coolant leak advice tonight.

Oh and every last question i remember you have more modern 21" alloys, do they fit in the cage that holds the spare under the car? And do you know if a 22" alloy would fit in it? i guess it depends how low profile your tires are as well?

Thanks again to anyone that responds. 2012 RRS HSE 5.0 SUPERCHARGED Santorini Black

Hi,

Not really able to answer you're comment about rectifying one fault whith that curing another totally unrelated issue, but these are ranger rovers after all and they do have some peculiar electrical quirks to say the least.

As for the water leak I would check closely under the front of the supercharger and water pump area, as it has been mentioned recently about 'O' rings leaking and plastic crossover pipes eroding away with age etc. in that area.

Yes I do use Penrite 5w20 oil now as it is nearly impossible to buy the Castrol Edge 5w20 here and have no issues with the Penrite.

I have 275/45 x21" wheel/tyres fitted to the car, the same size spare new tyre fully inflated will fit under the car, but it is a tight fit, I did have to dress up a couple of rough weld edges on the rear of the welded tow bar socket with a dremel but nothing drastic, can't really answer about 22" rims as personally wouldn't fit them as think they are a bit to "boy racer" for me with low profile tyres, as long as the overall diam. didn't exceed that of the 275/45 x 21" so probably think something like a 35 profile or possibly a 40, if you used a part worn tyre as a spare as well it may help with a little more room.

Cheer
Col

Thanks for super fast response as always 🙌🏻

Ahh very interesting on the 21's in the cage, yes i know what you mean regarding the 22's i think it all depends on the style of wheel if they look to big, but your prob right 21's look lovely with-out standing out to much.

Thanks for heads up on your oil & yes super strange on my oil sensor, but will go with it. When it has a service in the next month or so i will ask them to check if the full amount of oil came out.

Thanks for help with water leak, yes been reading every post on water leaks since i msg'd and saw your post about the updated one piece pipe, super helpful. Going to try and have a better look tomorrow where you suggested. If i can't find it might ask the indy to take a look when they service it. Pray its not that pipe because SC removal will probably be pretty expensive in labour. Will let you know the outcome 🙌🏻 Thanks again always. 2012 RRS HSE 5.0 SUPERCHARGED Santorini Black