Hi all,

RRS 2011 TDV6.

Having changed both manifolds, I'm now told the that the inlet valve for the turbo needs replacing. Apparently this was causing the Restricted Performance warning and error code P2202-77.

I've attached the two photos (in my gallery) that they sent explaining what they think is wrong.

I have two questions:

1. How much would you estimate this part to cost? I'm suspicious after the coolant tank overcharge and was quoted around €420 for parts alone.

2. Approximately how many hours and also what approximate cost would you expect for the labour please?

I understand these are estimates and I'm not in UK, but your guidance has helped me so much in advance.

Thank you again!

https://www.rrsport.co.uk/forum/topic55513.html

I’d start with reading this. 2011 RRS HSE Luxury 3.0 TDV6 Fuji White on Ebony/Ivory
Born and raised in So Cal. Moved to the UK in 2018 for a few years. Now in Poland and looking at moving back to the UK.

Thank you. I did read that (I searched for a long time) but it's different to what I'm asking. I think

Are you sure that’s the correct DTC? I’m not seeing anything in the service manual for P2202-77. There is P22D2-77, which is in the exact same diagnosis area as the issue I linked, in fact it’s the DTC just before it with almost the same diagnosis procedure (stuck open vs stuck closed) and can be caused by the same issue. Before dropping money on parts I’d look at that vacuum line.

P22D2 - 77
Turbocharger Turbine Inlet Valve Stuck Open - Commanded position not reachable
Turbine intake solenoid sticking open Blocked low pressure air intake
Using the manufacturer approved diagnostic system perform the (Turbo, EGR and air path dynamic test) routine Using the manufacturer approved diagnostic system check datalogger signals, Turbo Shut Off Valve Opening Position - Commanded (0x03F0) and Turbo Shut Off Valve Opening Position - Measured (0x03F1). Refer to the electrical circuit diagrams and check the turbine intake solenoid control circuit for short circuit to power. Check power supply to the solenoid. Repair harness as required. Clear DTC and retest
If this DTC is logged with P0235-94, P00BD-07, P1247-00 & P22CF-71, suspect turbine intake solenoid sticking open
If this DTC is logged with P1247-00, P0235-94, P00BD-07, & P22CF-71, suspect blocked low pressure air intake
Check and install new turbine intake solenoid as required

As for parts cost, I like how they show the diagram and not the part number. Those are two different parts they circled, one is the entire assembly, the other is the repair kit for the assembly.

Entire part has been revised three times and is now LR043939 at about €600 genuine part.
Repair part is LR033284 and about €110 genuine part.

Oh, the coolant reservoir you got, genuine units are about €130, aftermarket as little as €30.

I’d find out what they’re actually trying to sell you. Entire part or repair part. If it’s the repair part it better come with a 55 gallon drum of anal lube. 2011 RRS HSE Luxury 3.0 TDV6 Fuji White on Ebony/Ivory
Born and raised in So Cal. Moved to the UK in 2018 for a few years. Now in Poland and looking at moving back to the UK.

This is incredibly helpful. Thank you so much.

I apologise for my mistake - you're right, it's P22D2-77.

I'll ask if they are ordering new or repair kit. The cost is around 400 euros plus labour (and I have no idea how much that might be).

Are you suggesting there's a quicker/easier/cheaper fix? I'm not very technical (but not too bad either) so I'm trying to understand it all in the best way that I can. It's so f'ing annoying when you can't trust your local mechanic.

Ps it was an original coolant tank - I saw the LR bag that it came in.

Hi again,

I've added another photo in the gallery. This is what they sent when they were doing the diagnosis.......

In that link I posted they point out a common problem is a vacuum line coming undone. If this is in fact the problem it’s a simple and easy fix once you find the line and reattach it. That’s where I would be looking first. If that’s okay then move on.

As for what the shop is showing, a lot of times diagnostics software shows a problem that leads you to a part. Problem is that part may be fine and it’s something else associated with it causing the part to show a fault. This is where mechanics really show their worth. Are they just wanting to replace a part cause that what the computer tells them, or have they checked everything associated with that part first?

And I did see you said it was an original tank, that’s why I posted a genuine price for you.

Sounds like you may be paying the foreigner tax in Spain, believe me, I got hit with it for a tire in 2020. 2011 RRS HSE Luxury 3.0 TDV6 Fuji White on Ebony/Ivory
Born and raised in So Cal. Moved to the UK in 2018 for a few years. Now in Poland and looking at moving back to the UK.

I wish I could buy you (and many others on here) some beers! You're so helpful.

Yes, I'm paying the expat tax - the Spanish love that, although one German mechanic wanted 3500 euros for changing a turbo when it was the manifold that had gone. Thankfully, because of help here, I got it fixed correctly.

I know the current mechanic will pretend to check the vacuum line and say it was ok, so I'm going to get it checked with someone else now. Hopefully they'll understand what I mean and check it properly.

Once again, thanks for your help.......

No worries. Hopefully it’s a small easy fix. At this point you know the worse case scenario which is repairing the inlet valve. Best case the vacuum line is off and it’s fixed quick. The main thing is knowing, shops hate educated customers. I’m going to PM you a couple links I think you’ll find very useful. These are my first stop when things don’t seem right with my car. 2011 RRS HSE Luxury 3.0 TDV6 Fuji White on Ebony/Ivory
Born and raised in So Cal. Moved to the UK in 2018 for a few years. Now in Poland and looking at moving back to the UK.

Hello everyone.

So on this topic what was the solution? I’m having the exact same fault codes and issues, once the secondary turbo is activated 2800rpm (ish) and above the red triangle comes on and it really is restricted performance (30mph up hill in a 60 is interesting) the fault codes are also say MAF A circuit is out of range. As this is the easiest thing to access if changed it for a new one but the problem persists. So I’m thinking is it more in-depth and would love to know what fixed MallorcaNick’s issue.

As always any help would be amazing.

It was one of the manifolds, which I got changed but then needed the other one done a few months later.