4x4 Airseals do a kit for changing seals and drier beads. Just done myself on mine , need to determine make of compressor.

inkano1 wrote:

Hi there wondering if anyone can give me advice on the above matter. my RRS HSE 2013 model vehicle intermittently flashes up a camber warning light if i turn a corner too fast or sometimes when i go over a bump, it tells me to stop the engine right away, once i do it and restart the warning goes away and the car is fine till the next episode, i took the car for a diagnostic and the garage said it was a fault relating to the hydraulic suspension pump and that it had been leaking, he filled up the system and it gave me no problems for around a week then started back again, do any of you know how much to supply and fit a new pump?
look forward to anything coming back guys...

R

I have had the pressure faults since putting in new ace pipes, but have disappeared since a manual bleed.
Have LR tried bleeding your system with their "Specialised " tool. I read that you disconnected some pipes to the system
I have also found that the active roll file was not configured in the CCF files. GAP has helped with this.

Your tied in with L/R at the moment I suspect.

Thanks, Alfapat. Yes, it is possible for air to be in the system - I followed the Atlantic British procedure from YouTube, which included pulling the pipes off at the roll bar, but only did it for the front pipe.

Super-reluctant to take a 15 year old car to my local main dealer, so will surf around and see what other options there are - I did stumble across someone who made their own bleeding system, so will look for that!

Would be interested to know other peoples experiences of the i930 too, and whether shelling out for a Gap tool really is worth it ….!

The way I bled my system , not truly tested yet as I have developed another problem which Ill post.

I jacked the vehicle up in front both wheels off the ground, released the bottom link arms from the suspension lower arm and loosened the bleed nipple on the anti roll bar drivers side and started the car.
I then moved the roll bar arms up and down being mindful that I was ready to shut the bleed nipple of when the fluid ran clear without air. This worked well until I had a go at the other nipple and it snapped off , I've not been able to sort this yet , however The reservoir has slowly dropped its level and have topped up three times so until I get going again , I can only assume that it working again since the ccf filed has been restored, I reckon it had been deleted before I bought the car 8mths ago as the drive belt was replaced to a short one avoiding the pump pulley, probably because the pipes were burst to the front which I have replaced.

Now to my next problem an air leak valve problem somewhere.

Having owned a Discovery and now a RRS I am sick of hearing and being expected to put up with cars that are not fit for purpose and which the manufacturer seems unphased by. I will return to Jeep Ownership - from whom I had 10 plus years of non-problematic Ownership before switching to Landrover which are incapable of more than a month at a time of full functionality. I am the darkness before the storm

You are basing this after owning a 18 year old car, does it have a full known maintenance history?
Probably not.
How many cars of this age are going to be trouble free?  2023 P440e SE Dynamic on order -cancelled

2022 HSE Dynamic P400e

2017 Discovery 3.0 HSE Silicon Silver Nimbus interior and a few extra toys SOLD

2013 HSE Black, Orkney Grey, Ebony Seats and Ivory Interior SOLD

2006 HSE

Plus a few other cars inbetween!

Good point , I was about to consider this reply when I went back in here.
The RRsport is a totally different machine to drive and enjoy (Biased yes) , but carrying a diagnostic for me helps to piece of mind that given all the sophistication and ecu's involved on this machine a lot has to be with minor incidents. It does run on too finer tolerances . Although they may appear in the dash and flash , you kind of live with it . Battery life or condition has a big part to play in all the systems.

Sorry about your thoughts but stick with it.

[quote="83series3"]

inkano1 wrote:

Hi there wondering if anyone can give me advice on the above matter. my RRS HSE 2013 model vehicle intermittently flashes up a camber warning light if i turn a corner too fast or sometimes when i go over a bump, it tells me to stop the engine right away, once i do it and restart the warning goes away and the car is fine till the next episode, i took the car for a diagnostic and the garage said it was a fault relating to the hydraulic suspension pump and that it had been leaking, he filled up the system and it gave me no problems for around a week then started back again, do any of you know how much to supply and fit a new pump?
look forward to anything coming back guys...

R

Hi Pat,

No, still no resolution to this one - it periodically drives me to despair, which it is currently doing!

I can get the error to appear on both left hand and right had corners, but on right hands only when pressing on….

… I took the plunge a few months ago and replaced the pressure control valve, which cost me roughly £220, but alas, no difference.

I can’t find a garage that wants to look at it in Kent (local specialist made one of those ‘we don’t like to touch those bits’, despite being able to fix anything, and now I’m wondering about replacing the entire valve block, but through frustration rather than logic.

Can anyone help?

C1B11-1D(AF) Pressure Control valve-General Electrical Failure-circuit current out of range

The above code is triggered every start up , so I am thinking the coil would be an easy replacement if I can get a hold of a s/h Valve block and change the coil . I get voltage to both wires in the plug , so I will check if I can get to it the resistance coming out of the coil .

I have wondered about getting a donor valve block and having a poke about as well - your fault code suggests a fault with the PCV circuit …. Which I presume is some magic in the block somewhere?

Maltings (I think) had new OEMs for sale at about £600 a few months ago, which was tempting, but I passed on that at the time - when it’s not wet and miserable, I need to take a look to see if I can get the pipes off my valve block, should I decide to change it …. I’ve undone all of the original fastenings, but coulldn’t see how the pipes and surrounding covers detach from the block, hence considering the donor route to see how it all works.

Other possibility for me is to get a valve service kit and change the various seals etc, but that involves getting to the bottom of how to get the pipes off first.

All in all, frustrating - more so when I can’t find anyone to have a proper look at it - not wasting time / money taking a 16 year old car to a dealer that won’t want to look at it anyway!

I have replaced all four front pipes , they are secured to the blocks, by a clamp on all for pipes . The only way to remove them is to loosen all fixtures allowing the BLOCK to release and free off the pipes. The pipes are into to the block with a sealed insert. I'm hoping gentlemen of salvage might be able to supply a valve block with components.

Think I have a valve block in the shed if you want it. Bought as a spare for my l320 but never used. It is second hand but has had all the seals replaced and the filter replaced. Has a pressure sensor installed. Give me a shout and I'll get some pictures

Sent PM I think? Cheers