Ive had the light coming on randomly for a wee while but it usually clears once the car has been left for a few minutes. Finally hooked the GAP up and read the codes. Screen shot above.
Does this refer to the air compressor pressure sensor or the Anti roll bar pressure sensor? Ive had a look at the plugs and wiring in the passengers wheel arch and it all looks good in there.

Antone got any ideas? The light is back on again today

Ok, this fault has become permanent now. It's more annoying than anything but would really like to get it sorted. Any sort of advice would be much appreciated

Not in the habit of posting negative replies (can't help with your problem) but just to reassure you your message is visible here!  Barrie.
2017-Jan 2024: 2005 RRS 2.7TDV6. Best car I ever had - until now!
Current: 2018 Ford Ranger Wildtrak 3.2

Wiring issue

Had the same fault on my D3. Twice (Had a "temporary" repair that lasted for 2 years )

Cheers Mikey. I'm going to start with ripping the NSF arch liner out again and go from there. I'll update if I find anything

That's the best place to start on a pre 07MY

Had a look at this over the last few days. Checked wiring in the wheel arch and was all good. No sign of damage inside the wiring harness and the plugs were spotless. Booked into a local LR specialist who advised that is was the ACE system at fault and related to a pressure fault. They recon that starting to replace bits on the ACE system is like opening a can of worms and to be prepared for a potentially big bill. I now have the car back and plan on doing a fluid change and possibly the pressure sensor if that makes no difference. I'll let you know how it goes.

Good luck! And yes, please post how things go.  Barrie.
2017-Jan 2024: 2005 RRS 2.7TDV6. Best car I ever had - until now!
Current: 2018 Ford Ranger Wildtrak 3.2

So fluid change made no difference other than it is now green instead of black! I have taken a punt on a cheap pressure sensor from eBay. Going to start soaking the sensor in WD40 for a week and have a go at getting it out.

So I just noticed on my IID tool while clearing the code again after checking the plug at the sensor that my battery voltage with ignition on is 11.6v. surely that's low? I'm going to borrow the battery tester from work tomorrow and run a test on it.
So question is could the low battery be causing my problems?

11.6v does seem low from what I've read in the past.
And yes, low battery voltage can throw up all sorts of electrical faults, so without diving any deeper than you already have, it would seem like a good place to investigate.
Reasonably cheap and easy to replace a battery, or repair it if it can with a CTech charger/conditioner or equivalent.
Hope that's all it is.  2016 RRS SVR Estoril Blue
2005 4.2L Supercharged Java Black - gone but was my first love.
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If we all point our RR's in the same direction and accelerate at the same time can we turn back time?

Yes, could be related to low battery. Fingers crossed. Barrie.
2017-Jan 2024: 2005 RRS 2.7TDV6. Best car I ever had - until now!
Current: 2018 Ford Ranger Wildtrak 3.2

Got the battery tester in the car ready to take home and my pressure sensor has been delivered today too. hopefully I'll be a happy lad in an hour or 2

Well the battery tested good on static test and load test. Got the sensor out, with a little help from a Ford oil filter removal tool, it routes round the ACE pipes quite well. Compared it to the eBay 1 and it was the same. Got it fitted, cleared the codes and fires her up. It's been 15 minutes idling and no leaks and no lights. Away to grab some food then take it for a run.