Thought I would document my fitting of the light bar, seeing if there were any differences to the video


Very well packaged.
I was going to add an inline fuse for safety, but to my delight it came with one already fitted. In the pack came 2-small clips, some cable ties & 4 blue scotchlocks. (Pretty good I thought as most other companies don’t give you anything). No instructions, just a sticker on the box saying “watch the video”. Thought they might have included the wiring diagram, but to be fair, its in the video.
The bar seems well made, so let’s get started. I started by removing the inner panel in the tailgate. Had a look at the video to see approx. where the yellow connecting studs were. Used a trim tool & once the two nearest the corner ones unclipped it was easy to pull it down to half way. (all as per the video)
Pushed the light through & tried to unclip it. Video shows it really easy, but I could not separate it. Eventually I saw two retaining pegs so pushed down with a small screwdriver & they unclipped easily enough. Went to other side & repeated the process. Cover removed. I wondered why he had removed the connector so easily so with the cover removed it I could see it a lot clearer & there is a little button to press. Obviously he had it apart before filming or you would never see the button.
While I was in there I decided to clip the scotchlocks onto the wire which in the video he had marked as + & -. Having used scotchlocks previously, the blue ones are really for a heavier cable, but are the most common. I had red ones which are smaller & would suit this size cable better. In able to fit scotchlocks you have to unwrap/cut back the insulation tape the manufacturer uses to bundle cables together (not the insulation on the individual wires). This is not shown on the video & you may spend a while trying to force the scotchlocks onto the available cable if you do not remove this tape. Scotchlocks clipped on, it was time to remove my trim bar which was silver.
Looked at the new bar & measured the position to the second clip 9.5” from the end so I stuck a bit tape on mine at this position from both ends. Trim removal tool in the end as per video & first clip released easily. I put some tape on the bodywork at the position of the second clip to prevent any marks on paintwork. Trim tool above the second clip position (9.5”) & it unclipped easily. Same at other end. Just gave it a pull inside the area where he said it was flimsy & off it popped. It’s a lot stronger than he reckons it is but if you lever it rather than pulling towards you, it could/will break.
Remove the clips to reuse next. Video does not really show how to do small ones. Large ones are fairly easy but small ones are not. Tried levering, no way. Eventually slipped small screwdriver under one leg & into a small rectangular slot in the bar and & gave it a slight push. Clip flew off at a rate of knots. Do this in a confined space or you will never find the clip. Remove the four clips & refit all clips to the new bar. I used the two new ones that were in the pack (may as well)
Drilled the hole as shown in the video 10mm, but later when fitting the grommet would have been better with 10.5mm to make it easier. Grommet is only there to stop wires fretting.
I put a sheet onto the rear glass & let it hang down over the right hand side of the tailgate to prevent any scratching of the paint while fitting the grommet (he said put some tape there, does not matter what you use)
The next bit is threading the wires through. This is where we differ. He put a bit of wire through the hole aiming right, emerging through a big hole. I must have tried this for 30 mins with no success then stopped to have a good look. If you aim left there is a big hole fairly near to your drilled hole. Took about 10 seconds. (see pic) Tape the wires to the locating wire & pull through. One thing though, you have to disconnect the inline fuse. Connector pulls apart but it is
A tight fit so needs a good pull. Pull the wire through & fit grommet into the hole. Spray some WD40 onto the grommet to make it easier. As said a slightly bigger hole would make it easier.
You can then locate the clips & fit the bar to the boot lid as per video, although I had to bang it a lot harder than him, as the centre ones did not want to engage but eventually did.
Wired as per video. As mentioned earlier use red Scotchloks as they are more suited for the smaller diameter wire. You have to cut back the manufactures insulation tape they use to bundle cables together so you can get enough room to fit the Scotchloks. Removing the connector that the green cable goes to is a bit of a struggle, but with the help of a screwdriver to lever it it came off. Same again, cut back on insulation to help with separating the cable bundle. Cable tied wire along existing loom to keep it tidy.
Switch on NOTHING. Much f###ing. Was so angry with myself for not just connecting it up to the battery before starting to ensure the unit was working. Anyway, checked power to the connectors, all ok. Checked fuse, ok. Last resort was to squeeze all the Scotchloks even though they seemed fine. Success, working. Don’t know what one it was but not caring.
When I first fitted it I was not sure I liked it as the silver one it replaced broke up the rear of the car & I did like it, but once it lit up changed my mind. Bit long winded this but it is a bit harder than the video shows but nothing too much



 Range Rover Sport (gone): Mercedes S63 AMG Coupe: 992 Porsche Carrera 4S: Range Rover Fifty P400e

any chance of some nightime pictures.

Thanks Lindab, nice writeup!

How's the view from the rear camera, is it obstructed much? --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport Supercharged V8 HSE Dynamic



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ

Naks, thanks for that. Always find these videos are edited a fair bit to make it look simple. His is actually pretty good. Main fault is threading the wiring through. My way is so easy, can't figure out why he never noticed.
Rear camera is fine. You don't really notice it. I had reversed before remembering what he said then had to have another look to see what he was on about
Waiting on them getting back to me about a wiring diagram for high level light. If the function is there use it, I say Range Rover Sport (gone): Mercedes S63 AMG Coupe: 992 Porsche Carrera 4S: Range Rover Fifty P400e

There is a video now of the high level brake light connection, but when its done it does not seem to make much difference. Not sure if I will add this. See if I can see a better way of connecting up without removing spoiler. Anyone got a wiring diagram??
 Range Rover Sport (gone): Mercedes S63 AMG Coupe: 992 Porsche Carrera 4S: Range Rover Fifty P400e

check the workshop manual, link in my signature  --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport Supercharged V8 HSE Dynamic



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ

Im watching this thread carefully as thinking of getting one myself.
So quick question if connected to both rear light and brake lightwill it work ... so normal light then changes brightnes when braking or is it you have to decide which one you want it to be RRS HSE DYNAMIC 2015 ODESSEY RED

Kitchenfitter, Rear strip lights up with the running lights, on all the time. When you brake, brake lights, high level light comes on and strip gets brighter, but looking at the video it does not appear to get much brighter, so may not be worth it , but I will try to see if I can do it without removing the spoiler by getting into the loom inside the tailgate.

Naks Thanks for that will have a look AT W/shop manual Range Rover Sport (gone): Mercedes S63 AMG Coupe: 992 Porsche Carrera 4S: Range Rover Fifty P400e

Thanks Lindab
Would be great if the strip light was brighter when braking

Looking forward to more info as will still prob buy one RRS HSE DYNAMIC 2015 ODESSEY RED

Night time shot of mine.
 Current - 2020 Range Rover Sport P400e
Gone - 2014 Range Rover Sport HSE SDV6
Gone - 2017 Audi A8 Sport
Gone - 2007 Range Rover Sport HSE TDV8 - Great car.

Sterling, Did you wire up the brake light? Range Rover Sport (gone): Mercedes S63 AMG Coupe: 992 Porsche Carrera 4S: Range Rover Fifty P400e

Ordered one today
Not tosure if i want to remove spoiler so will just have the rear light connection RRS HSE DYNAMIC 2015 ODESSEY RED