Hello all,

Sorry i know this is probably simplest job ever to most of you.

I have searched the web and forum for this info and there are threads abount removing these metal under shields and how tough it can be because the bolts/nuts rust badly. But no one mentions about the exact torque needed when put back on.

So i was hoping someone could clarify if the two engine under shields need to be torqued when put back on and to what amount of pressure.

The work shop manual seems to say for my 2012 RRS S/C the larger under shield further towards the middle of the car, there are ten bolts to remove and they need to be tightened back up to 62 Nm (46 lb.ft)

And the smaller under shield at the front has just 4x bolts and they need to be torqued up to 10 Nm when put back on. (I'm hoping i only need to remove this one under shield).

Can anyone please clarify if this is correct?

Just a quick explanation about why i want to remove them, i recently had an oil leak on the car. So while it was in a indy specialist for its service i got them to check the leak, they said it was the cam seal. And so replaced it. But they didn't rub away the old oil on the front of the engine there's a lot of oil sitting on the ledge just below the larger cam pulley. And the pipes and hoses below are also caked in thick black oil. I keep checking under the bonnet after every drive. And oil on the ledge just below the large cam pulley doesn't seem to be drying off, i'm not sure if every time the engine gets hot it makes the old oil sat there appear wet and new again. I know if i take it back to the garage (as they were 100% confident they repaired it) they will charge me to steam clean it and drive it for a few days to check on it. So i thought if i could remove these under shields myself, i could degrease all the pipes and hoses sat on the under shields and try and reach my hand up to rub away the oil collected on the face of the engine just under the cam pulley, that way i'll be able to tell it the leak has been fixed. The issue is though i'll have to buy axle stands and a torque wrench to do this. But i want to be able to work on the car, so i look at this as an investment in tools. I know i could poss take the car to a coin jet wash and try and get the hose down to these area, but there's no way i could be able to get degreaser to these areas from the top of the engine, and i'm also worried the jet hose might cause some damage to the hoses or belts etc. If anyone has any advice it would hugely appreciated.

Thanks 2012 RRS HSE 5.0 SUPERCHARGED Santorini Black

Hi Drexal, sounds like you have a good plan - with the shop manual and a torque wrench, jackstands, safety glasses, and the desire to get on the ground and do some wrenching, you should be golden.

If the skid plates have been removed previously that will be beneficial for you as sometimes those nuts can be quite corroded, and if they have not been removed previously you may shoot them with penetrating oil and let sit overnight.

Good luck and keep us posted Vincit qui se vincit

There is no need to buy a torque wrench for these bolts. Save your money.

They just need to be done up normally.


Yes it’s a good plan to remove the 4 bolts and small tray at the
Front.

Petrol or brake cleaner in an aerosol are things to clean oil

Thanks GT RRS & Andy for advice 🙌🏼 Great to know I don’t need an torque wrench for this job as someone in previous thread said you should buy the most heavy duty axle stands you can to work on the RRS they were using 6 ton max load per stand (because they said you hardly need to extend them to get a working height) do you guys use that heavier duty of stands? There quite pricey! & will order from aerosol brake cleaner & penetrating oil to.
Thanks again for replying advice from you guys always make jobs seem less daunting. 2012 RRS HSE 5.0 SUPERCHARGED Santorini Black

When refitting the under tray I would put a bit of copper slip on the bolts as well help prevent them seizing in the future. As far as torque wrenches are concerned it depends how much of your own maintenance you are going to do, unfortunately you would need several as some bolts/nuts are only 5 Nm whereas front caliper bolts on a S/C if changing discs are 275 Nm if I remember correctly the lower front suspension arm bolts if changing arms are a similar figure. I would certainly invest in one that covered the wheel nut torque at some point at least.

Cheers
Col

I think my axel stands are only 3’tonne

Probably worth the extra $35 for some peace of mind, not sure what costs are in UK...

 Vincit qui se vincit