Hi all this is just a standalone post for the repalcing of the main battery on an L494 Range Rover Sport (so it might be easier to find futher down the line and from google

L494 Main Battery Replacement The process should be the same for the L405 Full Size Range Rover
I started getting some power related issues such as low battery warnings, auto Stop start not working, lecy tailgate occasionally wouldn’t close on its own, soft close doors would suck the door shut! So after digging around I though it might be the secondary aux battery or leisure battery that helps runs other electronics around the car when the engine is running and to help the main battery during starting so it doesn’t interrupt some of the ECUs in the background!
Anyway I replace that little one the other weekend which is in this post but also a separate one, but after doing so the low battery warnings stopped but the ASS (auto start stop) still didn’t work! So I gave the main battery a full charge over night and then went for a run the next day, and yey ASS worked! So I continued about for a bit and after a few days of some short trips (engine did get to temp but just not long trips), ASS stopped working so I decided that whilst it is an annoying feature when its working I d rather have it working and turn it of than not!
So back on the internet to source the new battery so I went back to The Battery Group and bought the following model which is an OEM replacement its slightly better with 5 more amps but otherwise identical.
It’s the L494 Main Battery Exide EK950 (019 or 017 are the battery specs) It’s a 95AH with an 850A CCA (cranking capacity, which means it’s got plenty of starting power)
It’s and AGM style Start Stop battery which is basically Absorbent Glass Matt so the acid is in the fibre glass matting and are sandwiched between the electrodes so there is no liquid as such. These are supposed to be good for start stop function and can be mounted at any angle too.
https://batterygroup.co.uk/batteries-by-ap...ek900?c=35
(I’m not on commission for these guys either (should be though!)
FYI the L494 Aux Battery is Exide EK151 from the same place if you are gonna do one might as well do the other and make a day of it! Id do the baby one first! (Post 2016 Cars don’t have the Aux batt they have a dirt big capacitor instead! So best check first).
https://batterygroup.co.uk/batteries-by-ap...ar-battery
Link to instructions for the Aux Battery here https://www.rrsport.co.uk/forum/topic57326.html

So now you have the new battery handed to you from the delivery guy who will have moaned a bit cos it weighed 26KGS compared to all the other Amazon parcels he normally delivers! (PS the above company use UPS who a pretty good and give you a time slot for delivery)
All you need for this job is a few tools but nothing you won’t have (if you haven’t then why are you even considering this job!)
TOOLS
Rubber gloves (to keep your hands clean but also for static purposes you will see what I mean later)
10mm socket, ratchet to go with that socket! and a small extension bar if you have one (not really needed but makes it a bit easier)
Plastic tray (like an old take way top or lunchbox lid (you won’t need it for long) something small really as you are just going to put it under the negative lead to stop it accidentally slipping back on the body or terminal!
Pry Tool Plastic only (or Wood) Something to help pry off the terminal and to pop out a cable tie retainer.
Cup of Tea or Beer (I like the start with Tea then end on a beer combo!) Maybe a few cups of tea and if you are really lucky some chocolate biscuits! Then move onto the beer and admire your handy work!

Process
So to start off with unlock the car and open the drivers door (you can shut it back up again that’s fine, then move round to the boot/trunk for the chaps over the pond).
Make sure the car is in Access Mode (I always use this to park with as it make it easier to get in and out but I believe the car considers itself to be parked and is recommended by LR) I'm short so for me it’s a given but also it does help reduce wear on the seat bolsters if you don’t have to slide down the car to get out, Also side steps make it easier too especially when in a tight space)
Empty all the crap out so you have a clear workspace, meanwhile the car will be slowly going to sleep in the back ground (you will notice the interior lights will be on whilst you are getting prepped when they go out the car will be asleep.



Lift up the floor and you will be greeted with some acoustic carpet and a spacer thingy in the middle



Grab the spacer and then un screw it as it has a long thread into the wheel well that hold the spare wheel in place (not sure what the car without this look like but my guess it its still there just without the wheel part! (underneath the wheel is the suspension compressor)



Now get ready for the strain as you will need to lift out the spare wheel (if you have one) that isn’t light (still save a trip to the gym today).
Lift out the foam surround the wheel sits on.



You can now see the suspension compressor which does not need to be disconnected just mover out of the way, if you look at the picture the 2 red markers are the securing bolts and the blue square is where the brack slots into the battery box housing (so it after removing the 2 bolts it slides to the left and then just lifts out (not completely) so you can move it out of the way over towards the seats.
Now you will need to get your 10mm socket and loosen the 2 bolts at 6 oclock and 9 oclock



Being careful of the connections (there is plenty of slack) slide the Compressor to the left to move the bracket section at 3 oclock its held in by like a flat t bar that slots into the palstic housing its nice and simple (Ive marked the sections in blue and you can see in the below image the compressor still connected but lifted out of the way




There is a foam piece that sits on the top of the battery so lift that out and you can now see the battery



There is a red tab over the positive terminal that can be lifted out of the way (its attached to the terminal lead by 2 arms just pinch them together and it lifts).
On the top right disconnect the vent tube
Now here is where the plastic tray come in handy and the gloves!
Loosen the bolt on the negative terminal use prying tool to help lift it off as its quiet snug (USE SOMETHING PLASTIC OR WOOD) then take the plastic tray and place it over the negative terminal so should the negative lead slide back it wont touch the terminal. (Consider the negative lead as if it was the car, so you are disconnecting the car from the battery first)



Then loosen the positive terminal, this is where the glove will come in, its help down by a little cable tie which I couldn’t loosen without lifting the terminal lead so I place the rubber glove over the end of the lead so it didn’t keep touching the battery use a plastic pry tool to lever out the cable tie which is secured by a plug type thing into a hole (it will just pop out)



The battery is now ready to lift out (its not secured it just sits there) )oh there is a piece of foam on the right hand side I guess to stop it moving)
The carpet kinda makes it a bit awkward (could use some duct tape to hold it out of the way I guess)



I used the terminal covers on the new battery to put on the old whilst lifting it out just in case I knocked a lead or something.
So put the terminal covers back on the new battery and lift it back in, there is plenty of room to the right hand side of the battery so I lifted it in on the back edge first and slid it left side first in, it’s a bit tricky but nothing bad.



Then slide the battery to the left as that is where is sits and the connect it all back up in reverse
Take the gloves of one at a time to avoid any accidents
Put the vent hose on first
Positive Terminal first
Then negative terminal (When the negative (the car) is connected the lights and locks might flicker and the car will wake up as if you have just unlocked and opened the door. Just let it do its thing while you put everything back.
The only thing that might not work straight away will be the electric tailgate as power was disconnected from it whilst it was open, just manually close it and then use the unlock function on the keyfob and then it will open again as normal.
That’s pretty much it after you put it all back together (I kept the old battery charged in the garage just in case as its handy as a jumper as it’s not totally dead)

If you have the GAP IID tool then you can perform a battery reset if you are still getting errors or had errors prior to the swap (I have not done this and have no issues)
To do that go fire up the tool and go to the service menu where you will see 2 options one for main battery and one for aux battery. Just follow the on screen guides (I don’t know if it will but you might lose some stored settings but I think this is unlikely as most of it is stored in memory.



Next time you go for a drive and the engine is up to temp the ASS should now function. Only time will tell if the short trips will create the same problem resulting in needing the occasional overnight charge!

Hope this might help someone! If a jobs worth doing, get a someone who knows what they are doing to do it!

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Thanks for clear explanations and pictures. To avoid any electronics risk while disconnecting and reconnecting the battery, you could the 12v terminals which are under the hood of the engine bay and connect another battery (or car) with cables. Doing this will maintain all your car live.
What year is your RRS L494 ? Mine is MY17 and available Gap IID tool doesn't work except for adjusting air suspension up and down.
Thanks Nik
RRSport L494 SD4 MY'17
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Hi Mate I think as yours is 2017 the backend software system changed so it might be that the GAP tool only has limited functions on I think it went up to 2016 which might explain there isnt much you can see on the menu.

The main menu should have a list of things like diagnostics, ecu info, Car Config (CCF list), Faults, Service/test, etc...

Have a word with Pat at Gap and ask him, Im guessing you wre looking to do a battery reset? your car will only have th emanin battery as it will have a large capacitor in the back section.

As I said I didnt need to do the battery reset and still havent done it and have had no problems so far. (aprt form the sunroof being slow but I dont think its related)

From the GAP site
****Functionality coverage for 2017 and up L405, L494 and L462 platforms is limited. Car Configuration File editing and ECU Flash are not supported at the current time.

Might be worth asking if they have got anywhere with it, I think there is a manula way to reset the car after a battery change which involves disconnecting the batteries (and capacitor) and then using the negative lead on the car and bridging it to the positive (no batteries connected mind) I might have that wrong but the L320 had something similar it should reset the ecu's I think wihc would have the same effect. Someone else might know more about that on here! If a jobs worth doing, get a someone who knows what they are doing to do it!

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Hi, PJ another good post cheers. I’ve got the capacitor in my car as I only just discovered yesterday. I’ve just ordered the same big battery as you’ve got. Is that still correct do you know? Just had a thought there so thought I’d ask 2016 Yulong White L494 AB/DYN 3.0SDV6

HI Mate yep it should be the main battery doesnt seem to have changed much since the RRS2 appeared, and when you look about at the normal places to buy them the same ones appear regardless of age so I think you are pretty safe.

For a laugh go and see how much euro car parts want! (great business if you can get it, Im just tight!) that said even they are great value compared to taking it to a dealer!

Its an easy fit and the price makes it a worth while swap for anyone experiencing power or system faults, Ive wasted soooooo much time on my RRS1 and Merc's hunting for sensor gremlins and systems offline and panicking only to find that its was the batteries on their way down causing the issues, modern cars have so many ecu's and circuits to keep all the gadgets and alarms and trackers etc... going even though the batteries last for 5 yrs and most do I think its the one time you flatten it by lack of use or a mistake and that then sets the performance into a decline, others use the Ctek battery charger/conditioners and swear buy them so maybe I might treat myself to one, but to be fair at £130 for the battery its not a big issue in the grand scheme.

Good luck with the fit. I even better you can reward your self after with a beer and the other half cant complain cos it was practical work!  If a jobs worth doing, get a someone who knows what they are doing to do it!

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Thanks for your help PJ 2016 Yulong White L494 AB/DYN 3.0SDV6

So battery changed tonight, no issues at all just had to reset the date and time. Took the car out for a drive for around 15 mins. Still no start/stop function. Well I don’t think so any way. However everything else is running smoothly and no struggle at all to start, no flickering lights....nothing. Thanks PJ great post 2016 Yulong White L494 AB/DYN 3.0SDV6

ASS only works when it thinks it can adn the engine is warm enough, so if in 15mins the car might not have got warm enough for it to kick in, if you had heated seats and AC on full and maybe heated steering, lights then it doesnt always come on as all those features take their toll on the battery so ASS doesnt kick in. Also if it hovering around 0 that can also stop it from working.

Also it might be that the battery is new but it might not have been fully charged I guess, I stuck mine on charger to top it up before I put it in just incase.

Out of interest does the ASS button light up and if it does when it becomes available there should be a green light on the left dial.

If you get the car so the water temp is in the middle of the guage (it will be up to temp) and then turn the ac down to low, then it probably should kick in. Mine doesnt work straigh away, non of them do as the feature has to be warmed up and meet certain criteria before it acitvates which on a diesel can take a while, I have an aux heater in mne so in the winter that helps get the inside of the car up to temp a bit quicker but it can take a while for the engine itself to get the water and oil in it up to operating temp.

You are quite a way up the country so not sure waht the weather was like up there but it might just be that it was cold enough that the 15min drive wsnt quite enoough to get up to temp, also if it was town driving the engine doesnt really get laboured much so will take longer to get warmed up as its not under much load.

if you went out last night I think the temp where you are was about 3 - 4 degrees so it might just have been circumstantial it didnt come one.

when you get a chance fire her up and go for a decent blast (might need a good exxuse though liek when you are going shopping as you dont wanna break the Covid lockdown rules) and then let the car get fully warmed up, i reckon the ASS will kick in when you get into a town driving situation as the battery will have had some charge put back in it and the car will be nice and warmed up.

Once its warmed up, it takes a while to drop so after few hours when I restart my ASS kicks back in quite quickly, its a pain when reversing though so just hti the button (you think they would disable it whilst in reverse!)

If you have other things like phone chargers or Road Angel or dash cam type gadgets these can also effect when it kicks in as they are also pulling power so it might just need a bit more time to cehck the battery level before it will kick in. if the battery level get lower the ASS will just start the engine to start chargeing it again, lots of short trips can drop the charge in the battery quite quickly (also nto that great for the DPF but that another story)

Shold be ok, (also did you use the GAP tool to perform a battery reset function? ( I still havent on mine and all seems to be ok). If a jobs worth doing, get a someone who knows what they are doing to do it!

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Thanks for the info...I will keep an eye on it. I’ve gone this long without it ever kicking in so I’m not to worried. Would be nice to know the function does work though. 2016 Yulong White L494 AB/DYN 3.0SDV6

It's possible to avoid having to reset anything if you leave the engine running whilst you change the battery. An auto-electrician I know gave me that hint before I swapped mine over two years ago. Worked a treat, but I was very careful to insulate both battery leads after disconnection and minimise the time between getting the old one disconnected and the new one connected. 2013 L494 5.0 SC in Chile Red

Soooo the ASS kicked in today for the first time since owning the car haha. Must of needed a new battery for nearly 2 years, I’ve also noticed that the dials on the dash show them selves a lot quicker and my memory seats do a full cycle when changing between drivers. I’ve often had to press the number two or three times. 2016 Yulong White L494 AB/DYN 3.0SDV6

Possibly the reset when the battery was changed, rebooted the system and fixed those issues.
Regards
Barry 2017 Range Rover Sport TDV6 L494 SE Fuji White
2011 Range Rover Sport SDV6 L320 SE Fuji White Loved but GONE
2010 TRAKKA Motorhome Fiat Ducato GONE (What a dud, don't buy one)
2006 Discovery 3 SE TDV6 Automatic Chawton White/Ebony. Loved but GONE
2006 BMW X5 diesel White/Charcoal, Bought new, Gone after 12 years! Was Excellent.
Ex Member Range Rover Club NSW

I think your probably right as all the electrical functions seem a lot more responsive. 2016 Yulong White L494 AB/DYN 3.0SDV6

Will this battery work aswell mate? The EK900 one was out of stock for a while but now the think you provided takes you to a EK950

Yep mine is the EK950 I would guess that its the replacement for the EK900 that isnt being made anymore.

Its an easy swap If a jobs worth doing, get a someone who knows what they are doing to do it!

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