They do look nice and understated on the vehicle.

Does the slider stick out past the door moulding? I assume it does but in the piccies it looks close. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

It does stick out, though as you said, tight in places. Pic is from where it's closest and despite image pole was vertical. Gap was 1/2 cm I would say

I can think of a tree-stump on Salisbury Plain that I need those for. It's got me twice!

I'm thinking some of the narrow lanes around Brechfa, in particular so-called Panel Beater

Pufftmw wrote:

It does stick out, though as you said, tight in places. Pic is from where it's closest and despite image pole was vertical. Gap was 1/2 cm I would say

Do the original plastic trims stay in place along the sill? Would like to see some more pics please with doors open please  2003 BMW M5 - 5 Litres of V8 Optimax Slurping Goodness in Carbon Black

2013 SDV6 HSE Black Edition- Orkney Grey with Ebony & Ivory. LR Facelift RAI, Genuine G4 Expedition Rack, 4x Warn SBD-160 Spotlights, Warn 9.5XPS Winch, Mantec Underbody Protection and Sump Guard, Full Easy Lift Suspension Module, LR Light Guards, Light Force HTX230 Hybrid spotlights, 18” Compomotive PD1881 on 265/65/18 BF Goodrich KO2, ARB fridge, TuffTrek awning 😎

Just finished doing the other side, took about an hour all in all but that's because a) I again had problems getting out the rear two Phillips on the plastic valence b) I'm somewhat space limited and c) on my own. To be fair I wasn't in a rush either. I'll do pics another time as its still peeing down here.

Its really just a bolt on experience. I can imagine with two people and a newer less abused/rusty/muddy car it could be done in around 30 mins a side.

Plastic trims... The plastic valence is removed and discarded. The finish makes it look tidy when opening the doors. If you don't have have knackered Philips screws in the rear wheel arch then you'll be able to save/re-use. You probably don't have to but I did, remove the yellow pop-lock halves that hold the valence on but I imagine they might get crushed when tightening up.

OTH the front (rear) outer plastic wheel arch protector (again 2 Phillips but they worked!) needs to have a little bit of a chunk cut out of it (about 4" x 4.5" ) in order to clear the slider. Not a problem for me but I've suggested to AJS that they provide a pre-cut one in the kit.

Sun came out for a few minutes this morning!

As you can see the finish line mirrors where the plastic valence would have been.



Countersunk washers with Allen bolts



You can see some of the rust on rear quarter - other side is worse

Wish mine had not come with the steps on as i really like the look of these, also Pufftmw if your winch mount is an LR product then it is the G4 winch cradle.

Looking at the various pictures, I'd say these are solely tree sliders intended to stop a tree or rock from hitting the door. They're not rock sliders (they'd have a smooth underside if they were) and they don't look like they would take too much vertical load without risk of deflecting and preventing the door opening. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

You're probably right. I have already given the feedback about dual rock/tree sliders, so they might make a change maybe. They are pretty sturdy though, so I imagine would take quite a bit of vertical punishment before coming out of place. This is the same design they use for other tree sliders, so I guess they know what they're doing.

Besides, they're also helpful to get up into the cabin for a short-arse like me

RRSTDV8 wrote:

Looking at the various pictures, I'd say these are solely tree sliders intended to stop a tree or rock from hitting the door. They're not rock sliders (they'd have a smooth underside if they were) and they don't look like they would take too much vertical load without risk of deflecting and preventing the door opening.

I´m agree , this design is closer to a side step ( very sturdy ) than a tree/rock slider , the load will be transmitted to the sill not to the frame (aka chassis ) and will bend . You should use the underside bolts and the two body to chassis mounts per side  TdV8 mapped and egr deleted , 265/60 r18 on Compomotive rims , Navarricos underbody protection , custom rocksliders , Devon44 hidden winch 9500i , IIDTool

rangemogger wrote:

Another instructive view

Click image to enlarge

And this is why I would like this design, as it covers all bases. The AJS one looks more sidestep design but stronger, so wont be for me  2003 BMW M5 - 5 Litres of V8 Optimax Slurping Goodness in Carbon Black

2013 SDV6 HSE Black Edition- Orkney Grey with Ebony & Ivory. LR Facelift RAI, Genuine G4 Expedition Rack, 4x Warn SBD-160 Spotlights, Warn 9.5XPS Winch, Mantec Underbody Protection and Sump Guard, Full Easy Lift Suspension Module, LR Light Guards, Light Force HTX230 Hybrid spotlights, 18” Compomotive PD1881 on 265/65/18 BF Goodrich KO2, ARB fridge, TuffTrek awning 😎

Happened across this site when looking for sliders, and underbody protection:

https://voyagerracks.com/land-rover-range-rover-sport-accessories 2006 RRS S/C CONSTANTLY under modification...
1994 RRC 4.2l not LSE sadly gone but not forgotten
LR Defender 300Tdi - affectionately know as "The Black Beast"

Come on!! I hope this video will give motivation in the fab process  TdV8 mapped and egr deleted , 265/60 r18 on Compomotive rims , Navarricos underbody protection , custom rocksliders , Devon44 hidden winch 9500i , IIDTool

Voyager sliders on my l320