Hi Guys,

So with the SVR the engine seems to heat up a lot quicker than the diesel RRSes I've had - within a few mins the engine is up to temp on the dash - but I'm guessing you should leave it a bit longer?

I was mindful of the fact that Dave said the engines need to be warmed up before you can give them a go.

Sometimes when I first start the car I need to go up to about 3000rpm from standstill to quickly move in and out of traffic in London, would you say up to about 3000rpm is ok and not hammering it? I normally wait about 10/15mins of engine run time before I think about going a bit faster, would you say thats about right?

Also when I get back in the car after an hour or two or whatever, the car is still showing its at temperature, I'm guessing the 5 litre cars keep heat longer? Not sure, whats your thoughts on getting back in the car after an hour or two and the car still showing its at temperature? Keep the revs low for 10/15mins?

Any thoughts or what you guys do, or the max rpm's you take the car too whilst warming up would be appreciated.

Thanks!
DM Non JLR Vehicle

I learned to give the engine 4-8 min. (related to the ccm 2-5 litres) to warm up the oil and in this time no higher revs than 40% of the maximum revs possible for the engine.

Sounds logic for me and I never had the feeling this was wrong for the engine/drivetrain.

Please mind, our digital gauges are just showing the water and this heats much faster, and the digital gauge is also programmed to show not up differences of 20/30 degrees if those are not important for engine safety. This is to give us silly end users the feel of a straight balanced temperature all the time...  2012 RRS HSE SDV6, BOURNVILLE 12/12-10/14
2015 RRS DYNAMIC HYBRID, CAUSEWAY GREY 1/15-7/18
2018 RRS DYNAMIC P400e, BRITISH RACING GREEN 8/18-8/19
2019 RRS DYNAMIC P525, SILICON SILVER 8/19-8/22
2020 RR VOGUE D300, EIGER GREY 9/22-7/24
2025 RR P550e, CHARENTE GREY 8/24-

Hey Renaco - thanks for that!

So no higher than 2600rpm if the maximum is 6500rpm?

I've been using 3000rpm as my maximum limit until the engine gets warmed up, would you say thats a bit on the high side?

Yeah I noticed the temperature gauge goes straight to the middle after a minute or two - so that's just the water? So how can you tell.

Ok so 10mins then should be enough for everything to be up to temperature even if half of that is sat in traffic?

Whats weird is if I get back into the car after 1-2hrs the temperature gauge goes straight back to the middle so I guess another 10minutes before I start to be more spirited.

Will going up to 3000-3200rpm damage the engine at all do you think? Or not?

Thanks in advance!

DM Non JLR Vehicle

I am sure 3000-4000 rpm doesn’t wear the engine parts negative with our modern oilS today, especially if it’s just to speed up into traffic.

It’s important to understand the whole drivetrain as a structure needing a fair amount of temp to work smooth. With a bit ear and feel for sound and vibrations I am getting once my drivetrain is warm enough and also once it’s getting a bit too hot after long highspeed distances on the autobahn...  2012 RRS HSE SDV6, BOURNVILLE 12/12-10/14
2015 RRS DYNAMIC HYBRID, CAUSEWAY GREY 1/15-7/18
2018 RRS DYNAMIC P400e, BRITISH RACING GREEN 8/18-8/19
2019 RRS DYNAMIC P525, SILICON SILVER 8/19-8/22
2020 RR VOGUE D300, EIGER GREY 9/22-7/24
2025 RR P550e, CHARENTE GREY 8/24-

My SVR temperature gauge shows normal operating temperature within 5 minutes of start. My other vehicles take double that. I typically don’t pull away until the idle normalizes around 750 rpm / 1 minute.

Renaco wrote:

I am sure 3000-4000 rpm doesn’t wear the engine parts negative with our modern oilS today, especially if it’s just to speed up into traffic.

It’s important to understand the whole drivetrain as a structure needing a fair amount of temp to work smooth. With a bit ear and feel for sound and vibrations I am getting once my drivetrain is warm enough and also once it’s getting a bit too hot after long highspeed distances on the autobahn...

Jjvd21 wrote:

My SVR temperature gauge shows normal operating temperature within 5 minutes of start. My other vehicles take double that. I typically don’t pull away until the idle normalizes around 750 rpm / 1 minute.

the ONLY way to know when your engine is at optimal operating temperature is to plug in an IID tool/OBD engine monitor and monitor the oil & coolant temperatures.

I haven't done it with mine, but based on how long it takes my Puma to get there, it can be anything from 6km to 10km of mixed driving.

When I start my car, I wait for the revs to drop before moving off - and in that time, I choose my music, plug in my phone, etc. And then I take it very easy for about 10km (a bit more in winter) and hopefully that's enough.

As for cool down, I basically just drive the last 2km or so very gently, and when I get to my destination, I let it idle for the time that it takes me to gather my wallet, keys, etc. --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport Supercharged V8 HSE Dynamic



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
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I have an Alpine A110 which has a warning lamp that is on until water temperature reaches 70/75C. Additionally it also shows a warning on the rev counter during this period which is 4,500 rpm, the max is 7,000 rpm. Reaching this temperature takes 3 or 4 miles. In the past I had a Golf which took 7 or 8 miles to reaching operating temperature. On this basis I'd say using 3,500 rpm until the gauge is in the normal position will cause no harm. Tim
RRS sold and replaced with a Skoda Kodiaq after appalling RR Dealer experience and LR inability to supply new cars in any sort of reasonable time frame..

Cool thanks for that guys and thats cool about the A110.

That would be a nice idea apparently some US cars do it, they limit the revs and show they are doing that on the dash until the engine is up to temperature, might be a bit restrictive but at least you would know when you could start to drive more spirited.

Ok so 3000-3500rpm for 10mins in normalish temperatures before you start to get a bit more flexible - got it!

Thanks!
DM Non JLR Vehicle

These do warm-up very quickly but the oil needs a little longer so i would never open it up before about 10 mins.

But them i,m sympathetic to my cars.

Thinking about it i dont push it hard that much at all , it too noisy.  SVR 2018 in Santorini Black.

Mine is quite quiet until you really get above 3000-4000rpm with the valves in closed mode.

Did it change that much between MY18 and MY20? Non JLR Vehicle

More wear is done when starting and in the first 30 seconds than at any other time as the oil Is sitting in the sump doing 3000rpm won’t harm it 2 minutes after starting up you now have oil movement 61 AB 5.0 supercharged rocket
07 HSE TDV8 with lots of toys EGR removed BAS remap
56 HSE WAS FULL OF PROBLEMS

You still drive off straight away though right?

Apparently sitting there idling isn't good for the engine either? Non JLR Vehicle

Hi

I'm just a noob when it comes to engines and wearing in and wear issues, but would it not make sense after the oil is circulating it shouldn't make any difference what revs the engines does as all components are only moving the same distance every revolution.

To me if the engine is running at 2000 rpm or 5000 rpm is no different unless there is a component failure but that would be the same at tick over or 2500 rpm for the damage it may cause.

If greater minds could explain (in layman's term if possible) if i am way of the mark with my train of thoughts thanks.