Afternoon all, after a quick search of the forum i cant see that anyone has mentioned about the hand brake being seized in the off position.

i was parking on a slight incline so decided to apply the parking brake and the deadly squeel sounded. but to my amazement the parkging brake was not engauged and i could drive without worry. (thankfully as i was over 300 miles from home on day one of four of site visits around northern Scotland)

i tried the unjam procedure with my Gap IId tool and this failed three times with nothing moving. (except the squeel) has anyone expericend this before and if so what was the cure?

im thankfully back home now with no other issues......

That's a stroke of luck,,,, or not, whichever way you look at it. I think I would be stripping down the rear brakes and make sure nothing has sized,,, if that's fine and it still squeals I would think the module would be the next port of call. 2010 RRS, TDV8
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Many years ago,,,,, 1955 series 1 landie , sometimes wish I had kept it

You said in your post that as you were on a slope you decided to apply the EPB. To me that says that you don’t always use it.
There is a saying that “If you don’t use it you lose it.” I have always believed that and always apply the EPB after stopping and selecting “N.” Releasing the foot brake to allow the car to roll onto the EPB then selecting “P.” That prevents the car holding on the gearbox pawl.

Sorry to hear you problem hope you get it to work.

Hi Phil,

I don't use it when on the flat which is to be honest 90% of the time. although I do ensure it is used at least two to three time a month if I'm not on any of my site visits. (my sites usually need either small amounts of off road driving or farm access tracks to get to them.)

it's defiantly the module, I guess I will need to remove and sort it out.

can they be repaired (if so what's involved) or do I just swap it?

You need to try and unjam the actuator with a diagnostic tool, normally they jam in the on position so could be something like a snapped cable or a problem in the drum. They are a top hat system so you need to remove the discs. 2008 G4 RRSport TDV8 current
2009 TDCi 90 current
2018 Discovery 5 HSE lux current
1994 Dakar current

Probably truth in use it or lose it. I always put it on when parked. Clue is in the name EPB. That's what it is there for.

I’ve started to apply mine every time I park up now even though I have the L494 with the newer system,,it’s surprising how many automatic cars I fail mot time on park brake & the first thing the customers say is,,But I don’t use it I just put it in park. Andy.
21 Ford Ranger
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2015 RRS AB Fuji.
2014 RRS SC Santorini
2016 VW Amarok
2014 RRS AB Fuji
2012 RRS Red Edition Fuji
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2012 RRS SE Santorini
2008 RRS White
2007 RRS Santorino

My L494 applies it automatically every time anyway. RRS MY17 SDV6 AB
Evoque MY17 TD4 AB

Mine doesn’t.I think that is on the later models.Ive had 2x my14’s & the my15 I have now & none come on automatically Andy.
21 Ford Ranger
Gone but not forgotten
Focus RS Red Edition
2015 RRS AB Fuji.
2014 RRS SC Santorini
2016 VW Amarok
2014 RRS AB Fuji
2012 RRS Red Edition Fuji
2015 Nissan Navara
2012 RRS SE Santorini
2008 RRS White
2007 RRS Santorino

Evening all,

now that I have a free weekend I plan on freeing the mechanism but I want to ensure I have all the required tools for a successful attempt.

could someone please confirm the required tools to complete on the drive....

thx

LandPhil wrote:

You said in your post that as you were on a slope you decided to apply the EPB. To me that says that you don’t always use it.
There is a saying that “If you don’t use it you lose it.” I have always believed that and always apply the EPB after stopping and selecting “N.” Releasing the foot brake to allow the car to roll onto the EPB then selecting “P.” That prevents the car holding on the gearbox pawl.

Sorry to hear you problem hope you get it to work.

The EPB needs maintenance. Whether that be by mileage or yearly, it needs doing.
Sadly there seems to be many reports of seized units, which is either by owners not doing any checks, or their chosen garages simply failing in their service promises. Bear in mind that these are internal parts and cannot be visually checked by an owner with no mechanical knowledge. It has become a known breakdown and totally disabling issue, so can cost dearly if left.

The comments of owners not using the system in fear of over using it simply does not stand up to reason. If the units are maintained, then they will be fine. The brake drum and shoes setup has been in use for many many years, and was fine, but a known service point needing correct adjustment. It was the main braking system on many cars (front & rear), and still is on the rear of smaller hatches etc.
Shoes/ rubbing points, springs and adjustment are all crucial. Using a tool to set the electronic unit into service mode is also important.
Applying the brake, then selecting 'P' is good advice. The pawl in the gearbox is not designed to hold the weight of the car. It is merely a 'parked' position for the gearbox. Just a word. 2011 MY D4 HSE
Previously 2001 D2 TD5, 1996 D1 300Tdi, 1985 90 2.2 petrol.
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totaly agree it needs to be correctly maintained.

I had fitted new pads two months earlier and was using the parking brake but it has jammed in the off position.

if someone could please confirm what tools they use to get the cover off and the mechanism released then i would be very greatful as i wont have another free weekend for some weeks.

Thanks

New Pads meaning brake pads... these are shoes (The handbrake shoes), so no telling if the discs were taken off and the Shoes inspected and cleaned, lubed & adjusted correctly? Again, the adjustment has it's foibles that many fall foul of. The shoes are adjusted using an old style wheel, and there is a cam that has to be slackened using an allen key, the drum tapped, and then the allen key locked up. This is often never done.
If that's the case, this is exactly what happens when unsuspecting owners think they have had their brakes done. The breakdown then comes as a shock. There are two braking systems. 2011 MY D4 HSE
Previously 2001 D2 TD5, 1996 D1 300Tdi, 1985 90 2.2 petrol.
Bikes! KTM, BMW, British, Classics and others.

Bardley, sorry for not being specific...

i personally replaced both the brake pads, shoes & bearings. so i accept full responsibility for the impropper adjustment.

All i need to know is what tools (other standard) are required to open up the cover and manually release the jammed mechanisim.

ie long driver / sockets etc (lengths would be good to know)

i have tried the unjam routine in the IID tool which did not work, and i assume this is making the situation worse as the handbrake is in the off position...