Hi, I’ve recentlg bought a pack of 10 1W T10 LED lightbulbs from Amazon, the brand is LncBoc. I’ve installed 8 of the 10 into my 2011 Range Rover Sport, starting with the rear boot light, working my way forward... they work, however, I’ve encountered a funny problem with the front left and right doors (driver and passenger).

If I open the door, the original OEM light comes on, I take it out, and put a new LED bulb in.... nothing happens..... I take it out, rotate it 180 degrees... and nothing..... I take it out, put the original in.... and..... nothing. I keep the original in, close the door, reopen the door, and the original yellow T10 bulb works. I try a similar process of closing the door with a LED bulb in, and reopen, and it doesn’t work, all of the other LED bulbs work fine throughout the process, and inserting the original bulb each time works after closing/reopening the door.

There’s no warnings on the dashboard, and I’ve tried unlocking/locking, and I’ve tried different LED bulbs to rule out the possibility of a bad bulb. The footwell LED bulbs are working fine, including the other doors and overhead courtesy light.

Any ideas?

Have you tested them on the rear doors and they work?

Try this and report back.

Fit the known good LEDs. Close all doors, lock and walk away. After 20 minutes, get in car, shut all doors and start the engine. Turn off the engine and open door. Report if the light comes on.

If it doesn’t, there’s probably a tolerance issue between the LED and the CJB/fuse box (a built in safety ((is it the FET?)) shuts the system down if it detects a short etc) so another type of LED is required. 2019 5.0 SC SVA (Current)
2012 5.0 SC AB. Sadly written off by a campervan
23 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

I’ll try this later. I’m 99% sure that the 2 LEDs left are working, however, does it need to be a full 20 minutes of waiting? Because if I happen to put it in the wrong way round, I’ll have to try again and wait about 20 mins? Waiting a total of 30 mins?

The 20 minutes gives the BCM chance to go to sleep. It’s pretty much to the second as I was testing my car for a Quiescent current drain a few weeks back and witnessed every time. 2019 5.0 SC SVA (Current)
2012 5.0 SC AB. Sadly written off by a campervan
23 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

Reporting back with an update here... I followed your guidance, and they now work. I’ve vetoed the LEDs are working, however, they seem to be inconsistent now, sometimes they’ll come on, sometimes they won’t, if I unlock the car with keyless entry they seem to work consistently, but if I unlock the whole car with the key, they don’t come on, the other LEDs work fine, and there’s no warnings, but locking, unlocking and doing the whole engine start fixes it temporarily though, just seems odd unlocking the car would mean they don’t work as opposed to using keyless entry

Do you have wing mirror puddle lamps and/or lamps in the wing mirrors?

What should happen is,

When you unlock the car, the lamps in the mirrors come on, they are I think called ‘approach lamps’ and you can then see puddles on the ground so you can avoid them before getting in the car. The puddle lamps in the bottom of the front doors shouldn’t come on. When the car has run and you switch the engine off, the BCM knows you have arrived (I know it’s not that clever) so when you open the door, it switches on the door puddle lamps but shouldn’t turn on the approach lamps (they’re of no use when you exit the vehicle). Does that make sense?

I’ve just tested my car and I only get the approach lights on the mirrors on both unlocking the car with the key fob and using the keyless entry. I can only get the door lights to come on by starting the car and turning off. 2019 5.0 SC SVA (Current)
2012 5.0 SC AB. Sadly written off by a campervan
23 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

I do not have the puddle lights on the wing mirrors. However, prior to installing the LED T10 bulbs into the doors, the front passenger and drivers puddle light under the door would illuminate regardless of how I lock/unlock the car, and regardless of whether I'm in the car, or not.

After changing them to LEDs, the rear doors both illuminate when the door is opened, regardless of whether the car has been on, or not.

However, the front ones appear to behave differently. the ones under the door, they will seem to sometimes illuminate if I use keyless entry, but if I keep the door open, and then open the other doors, the LED light on the drivers door will go out, but it wouldn't with the OEM incandescent bulb.

I think you may need to try another brand of LED, the BCM is maybe detecting them as either high resistance or open circuit. Can you access the DTC as I bet some will be logged. 2019 5.0 SC SVA (Current)
2012 5.0 SC AB. Sadly written off by a campervan
23 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

I gave up on LED's in the bottom the doors, I could never get them to work. There must be something in the door control module that doesn't mix with LED's. Otherwise the fine in the rest of the car, including the reg plate. 2018 Telsa MS
2012 Range Rover Sport HSE+
1990 Porsche 944
1985 LR 90 Soft top V8

I’ve got projectors in the bottom of my front doors. I bought 2 identical sets and both right sides blew in about 2 months. I then bought another set that were slightly different so changed the slide from the blown ones into the new ones and they’ve been fitted since Aug 2018 now. It’s like they’ve settled down now. 2019 5.0 SC SVA (Current)
2012 5.0 SC AB. Sadly written off by a campervan
23 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

I changed all my bulbs to LED, 2010 RRS, everything worked apart from the puddle lights in the bottom of both doors, rear door puddle lights worked, front didn’t. Gave up in the end and went back to original bulbs.

Hi I have changed all interiors to led and they were fine to start , every now and again they have started flickering ? Also changed the brake light bulbs to led and can’t remember if it was after or before I swapped them that I now get gearbox error on the dash ? Anyone had similar problems cheers

Hi I have changed all interiors to led and they were fine to start , every now and again they have started flickering ? Also changed the brake light bulbs to led and can’t remember if it was after or before I swapped them that I now get gearbox error on the dash ? Anyone had similar problems cheers

Hi Sinook,

A faulty brake pedel switch can throw up various random faults so swapping the bulb could also have the same effect.

Regular pulsing of the LED indicates a comparability issue, irregular flashing would suggest the LEDs are cheap. I fitted mine about 2 1/2 years ago and they are still going strong, they weren’t cheap but they’ve lasted.

Have you changed the brake lights back to bulbs to see if the fault disappears. 2019 5.0 SC SVA (Current)
2012 5.0 SC AB. Sadly written off by a campervan
23 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph