So the tedious job of finding my parasitic draw begins. I’ve done this a few times on older cars but this is my first time on a complex vehicle.

I first checked the battery which was good and pulled off the Neg terminal.

Testing with my fluke revealed a draw of 2.8 amp. The problem here is that every time you connect up the leads, everything powers up so I pulled the interior lights, IAM, RSE, FCDIM, Mirror fuses as they (except Mirror) power up until the car goes to sleep. The alarm I couldn’t isolate so left it alone.

After 4 minutes the current draw had dropped to 0.56A and after 20A it was zero so I’m now fitting 1 fuse at a time and waiting 20 minutes to see if it will drop to zero. 2019 5.0 SC SVA (Current)
2012 5.0 SC AB. Sadly written off by a campervan
23 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

I’ll find a thread in disco3 later.

Involves current clamp
And fuse loop wires.

Thanks, it will be a good read.

I think I may have the culprit, the camera module. Every fuse I refitted to this point drew 0A after 19 to 20 minutes. When I fitted the Surround Cam Fuse, the draw dropped from 5.4Amp (which is what it’s been at) to 4.3Amp after 19 1/2 minutes and sat there until 30 minutes when I pulled it and I’m now testing again with all the fuses except this one refitted. 2019 5.0 SC SVA (Current)
2012 5.0 SC AB. Sadly written off by a campervan
23 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

Well, all fuses fitted except the surround cam module and it read 0A after 19 1/2 minutes. Refitted the Cam Fuse and after 19 1/2 minutes it was still at .42A

Next I pulled the connector out of the Cam Module and left it for another 19 1/2 minutes and it read 0A. I’m confident it’s the module now but to be sure I will check the wiring for shorts. 2019 5.0 SC SVA (Current)
2012 5.0 SC AB. Sadly written off by a campervan
23 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

Silly question, are you checking / taking these readings with the car in access mode? When I had of my Sports (a 2008 & 2011) the battery would not keep the charge unless the car was in access mode. Basically sleeping. In Spain - 2018 F Pace - Frightened away from the Sports due to crank failures
Gone - A couple of RRS, A couple of Disco's. However thinking of another Sport.

Do a search on the Disco 3 forum for
Robbie's Guide For Battery & Quiescent Drain Testing

https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/robbies-gui...tery+drain In Spain - 2018 F Pace - Frightened away from the Sports due to crank failures
Gone - A couple of RRS, A couple of Disco's. However thinking of another Sport.

No, i know the BCM uses a small amount of current for the Air Suspension Module as do things like the alarm etc but nothing like 2+ Amps. Now I’ve pulled the camera module Fuse, the draw is so low that it registers 0A on the 10A scale so the draw must be in the milliamp range which is fine. 2019 5.0 SC SVA (Current)
2012 5.0 SC AB. Sadly written off by a campervan
23 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

Hi all ...just for info for anyone else looking for QI drain (parasitic draw ) I had a 1.2AMP drain turns out it was the EPB switch...so just a £25 fix.