Hey

I need to change the front and rear discs and pads 2008 RRSport TDV8 ( pads not worn ) discs are goosed, the rear piston wont retract, is there a way to get this back in or do I need a wind in tool, car has the EPB

Appreciate any help

Cheers

Gerry

Proper tool makes life a lot easier,, unless you have a large "G" clamp handy. 2010 RRS, TDV8
bali Blue / colour coded
side steps / flappy paddles
black perforated leather
22" overfinch
heated everything, TV,fridge ...... now with gold calipers and mud flaps !( black mud flaps that is) !!
Many years ago,,,,, 1955 series 1 landie , sometimes wish I had kept it

The EPB works on shoes inside the drum part of the brake so no special wind back tool required. I just use a big G clamp. Have you popped the reservoir cap off to make sure you haven’t got to much fluid, especially if you’ve already sorted the fronts. 2019 5.0 SC SVA (Current)
2012 5.0 SC AB. Sadly written off by a campervan
23 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

The year of your car is an important questuon

It’s a 2008 car according to his post. 2019 5.0 SC SVA (Current)
2012 5.0 SC AB. Sadly written off by a campervan
23 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

You shouldn’t need a wind back tool.
It’s a sign the piston is siezed. Which is common.

New caliper time. Not expensive.

Brit Plumber wrote:

The EPB works on shoes inside the drum part of the brake so no special wind back tool required. I just use a big G clamp. Have you popped the reservoir cap off to make sure you haven’t got to much fluid, especially if you’ve already sorted the fronts.

gogsy1956 wrote:

Proper tool makes life a lot easier,, unless you have a large "G" clamp handy.

Andy K wrote:

You shouldn’t need a wind back tool.
It’s a sign the piston is siezed. Which is common.

New caliper time. Not expensive.

When I did mine last month, I popped a piece of wood in the Caliper and pushed the piston out on the foot pedal. Obviously you have to be careful how far you pump it out or else you will pop it out of the caliper and it will need refitting and the system bleeding. Once I had it out as far as I dare, I washed the the rubber boots with mild washing up liquid and covered it in tyre dressing and let that dry in. I then put rubber grease on and removed the remaining residue until it was near dry. I then pulled back the boot out of the piston groove and gave that a clean. There was some corrosion evident in the exposed areas but the booted areas were clean. I did scrape some deposits out of the piston groove and lubed with red rubber grease to help the boot seal and to protect the groove from more corrosion. 2019 5.0 SC SVA (Current)
2012 5.0 SC AB. Sadly written off by a campervan
23 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

Yeah it's not worth rebuilding.
I put a new piston in mine, but it didn't fix it!

Turns out there is a groove that needs cleaning out, which causes it to seize. So if you know what you are doing, clean out the groove behind the seal.

But you may as well fit new ones