Hi Folks

I'm currently on holiday with the caravan, just before leaving I noticed the caravan battery wasn't charging but didn't have time to look further, then while driving near 300 miles the fridge wasn't cooling.

Now on site I've checked the 12S socket and I'm not getting volts on pin 4, which should the permanent +ve. I do get 12V (13.9 while engine running) on the fridge pin 6 - maybe the fridge has gone faulty which I'm not bothered about at this time as I'd like to get the RRS sorted.

Anyway what I'm posting for is I've found using my phone a topix fusebox diagram with fuses 48 and 54 being trailer related and I found fuse 48 blown (permanent +ve). But the topix diagram says it is a 30A fuse, the glovebox handbook says 15A and what's fitted and wrote on the back of the glovebox is 15A. No wonder it blew as the caravan is fused at 20A and with a slight wiring alteration I charge via a Ctek D250 dc/dc charger up to 20A (as I also have a solar panel fitted). I'm not particularly bothered about the charging, but as I'm limited with my internet searching can anybody confirm fuse 48 goes to pin 4 and 54 to pin 6? Also as 15A on fuse 48/pin 4 is way underrated for any caravan charging, was there a historical problem that they'd change to 15A from 30A? I'm tempted to just fit a 20A fuse but I probably should know better...... 13MY Range Rover Sport Autobiography SDV6 - mine
14MY Range Rover Evoque Dynamic SD4 Black Pack - wife's
99MY Defender 90 TD5, Soft Top Conversion - my toy, and bairns favourite

My handbook says Fuse 48 15 Amp but as you say wiring diagram says 30 Amp.

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20A should be fine for permeant.

Leave the fridge one if not blown.

Check pin 7 middle is ground.

I’d check you have power between 6 and 7 with ignition on or engine run

Modern caravans expect this.

Thanks for your replies.

Col, that is a different diagram but again it's strange how it shows the 30A fuse when 15A is fitted. I think I might try looking for that wire to see how meaty it is, if it looks good I'll be happier putting in the bigger fuse, although in the first instance I'll give the 15A another go (reasoning as below). Will that wire be in behind the left rear lights?
Edit: Just noticed in the diagram that fuse 48 is pin 4 and fuse 54 is pin 6, thanks for that.

Andy K, I get good continuity between both earths on pins 7 & 3, and 13.9V between pins 6 and 7 with the engine idling so the fridge supply should be good at the RRS. I did manage to check inside the caravan for the fridge continuity at 1.8 Ohm at the front fuse panel (RRS not connected, just put fluke leads in the plug wire to caravan wire connectors/fuse) so any issue must be towards the plug. I've checked the caravan wiring diagram and there's nothing else in circuit which would stop the fridge working as it's a direct feed via the fuse (habitation and charge relay in parallel).

I went a run to find a Halfords and have now got a selection of fuses, but have not yet had a chance to fit/test again, it's a nuisance how the rest of the family seem to think we should be doing holiday type stuff instead
When thinking about it and may be relevant, towards the end of season last year I was on a site in a particularly tight space where I had to do a fair amount of manouvering with the electic mover, it's a twin axle caravan so always tests the movers and that would have pulled the battery down a bit so this may have been when the charge current went over the 15A. It had been fine previously, we do a bit of non-hookup caravanning but the solar panel always handles the power requirements, except for that time with the heavy mover use.

I'll try and sneak in some more checks tomorrow. And to think my wife wanted me to leave my tools and multimeter at home....I've never yet had a caravan holiday where I've not had to have my tools out for some job. 13MY Range Rover Sport Autobiography SDV6 - mine
14MY Range Rover Evoque Dynamic SD4 Black Pack - wife's
99MY Defender 90 TD5, Soft Top Conversion - my toy, and bairns favourite

Dennis, fitting instructions show the factory harness plugs behind the bumper on a MY13, so would have to remove bumper to access those connectors I'm afraid. Don't recall removing rear light or trim panel in boot when I fitted mine although it was the 13 pin shouldn't make any difference. Not to sure you will be very popular if you start stripping car down on holiday.

Cheers
Col

Col

I think I'll be leaving the bumper on while here, that might just test the wife's patience not to mention the site management. For now I'll see how the 15A fuse lasts as I'll be leaving with a fully charged battery as minimum mover power needed to hitch up. 13MY Range Rover Sport Autobiography SDV6 - mine
14MY Range Rover Evoque Dynamic SD4 Black Pack - wife's
99MY Defender 90 TD5, Soft Top Conversion - my toy, and bairns favourite

Just a follow up to the above.

With the 15A fuse replaced everything worked again but this was with a fully charged caravan battery via the solar, so no or little current draw.

I checked the fridge by measuring volts at the incoming fuse by noticing volts drop/rise when turning on/off the fridge at engine idle, but unfortunatley even though I asked my wife to switch to fridge mode while I was hooking up she didn't so we still had a warm fridge at the end of the day when travelling home, but I'm confident it is working. What I need to look closer at is how the blown 15A fuse on the permanent +ve wire could affect the fridge as the caravan diagram shows it as a direct plug/fuse/fridge switch feed, with a parallel feed to the habitation relay.

Thanks folks for your earlier help

Dennis 13MY Range Rover Sport Autobiography SDV6 - mine
14MY Range Rover Evoque Dynamic SD4 Black Pack - wife's
99MY Defender 90 TD5, Soft Top Conversion - my toy, and bairns favourite

On early cars, the fuse behind the glovebox (30A) would supply both pearmeant and fridge supply.

There would then be two 15A fuses in the rear to split this into 2.

I wonder if the wiring diagrams shown really apply to your car?
or whether your car is more like I described above

Those wiring diagrams were downloaded from Topix for my own MY13 car way back, there are no fuses in the rear of the car for the MY13 they are all in the fuse box behind the glovebox numbers 48 & 54 both listed as 15amp. I believe pre-facelift is Fuse 8 30amp.

Click image to enlarge