Just wanted to say a big thank you to all the posts on this very useful thread!

I bought myself a 2008 Range Rover Sport mid-September and was mildly disappointed at not having a split tailgate after using that feature a lot on my BMW 5-Series Tourer. It was only after having the car for a couple of weeks when I had the tailgate open that I noticed that the top glass section actually opened, just like my Beamer. However I was confused when the switch, which I had pressed previously but with no effect still refused to open the upper tailgate.

That was when I found this thread. I followed the valuable advice on offer and managed to get the rubber cover off the switch housing very easily. All the usual white corroded powder stuff fell out along with the switch activation plate. I could then reach into the housing and activate the micro-switch with my finger to open the upper tailgate door, which worked perfectly. I didn't want to damage the switch housing by using a screwdriver to get it out so I undid the 8 screws and took the panel off to get good access to the switch housing from above. I got it out then really easily. I cleaned it all up with a wire brush and sprayed some GT-85 quite liberally. I then noticed that the switch activation plate had corroded away on one of the corners that located into dimples in the housing which kept it in place and allowed it to rotate to press the micro-switch. What to do I thought. A couple of bits of blu-tack in each corner did the trick. On with the rubber cover with a little vaseline to try to keep the water out. I then clipped the switch back in position and put the trim cover back on and secured with the eight screws! Whole job took about 10 minutes and didn't cost a penny.

It works like a dream and I have set the remote to open the upper tailgate now so that I don't have to test my blu-tack repair too much!

Anyway, thanks again for a great thread!

How can you get the switch without getting the panel? 91 BMW 850CSI

Took it apart today.
Someone had all ready done something to it and one pin inside the connector is broken.
What are my options here? 91 BMW 850CSI

Hi,

You need to decide if you can fix the switch or if you need to buy a new one. I don't think they are too expensive, but you can do a bit of searching on-line and find the best price.

Then the challenge is getting it back in. I decided to take the panel off to do this. It is quite difficult without getting direct access behind the panel. The good news is it is very easy to get the panel off and reassemble it. Providing you can open the upper-tailgate that it. If you can't then you may need to wait until the new switch arrives and connect it to open the upper-tailgate.

Hope this helps.

Hi new here and didn't want to start a new thread for a common issue but wanted to see if you think its the switch or the lock from my diagnoses.


My Upper tailgate will not open, stopped working a few weeks ago and we (literally) punched it and it started working again but after a week failed again.

now I don't think its the switch and more the locking mechanism as if I try to unlock the upper tailgate with the third button on the key, the lower tailgate opens and then my alarm goes off on one.

Was hoping to attack this problem this weekend as I'm getting fed up of looking like i'm trying to steal my car when I auto-pilot and use the key button to open the boot.


any help is greatly appreciated.

PS I refuse to take it to the local dealer to be charged £100 to be told its an electrical/body work issue and it's not covered under the extended warranty.

£25 for a genuine LR switch,I replaced mine last week.Easy to test if your switch doesn't fall apart when you take it out unplug the switch and just loop the connection on the car with a bit of wire,if the tailgate opens you then know its the switch.Oh and it's a minute of a job literally.

Hi Guys
Are you aware that there are interlocks on the glass lift and whole tailgate lift ?
If the main tailgate latch is not fully engaged OR the switch in it has failed then it will stop the glass latch releasing.
I know dealers hate being told things by us mere owners but you could ask them to check the latch ajar switches AND the connectors / wiring.
The trim panels come off quickly (plastic snaps) and it's not difficult or time-consuming to repair connector or harness.
Just a thought .... if it helps out ..............
Cheers
Steve

Despite reading and studying this entire thread, the top tailgate release switch will NOT come out no matter how many people say it will just pop out!

Using a small flat screwdriver is just chewing up plastic and I'm worried it'll just make things worse.

Any other tips on removing this? It could not be a more simple process but it is rapidly turning into one of those half hour Saturday jobs that ends up taking all day.

Thanks in advance


G

put the sctewdriver in the gap, and use it to push the switch across, (against a spring if you like) and then help it out.

If that doesn't work, try it the other side

Same problem with my 2008 RRS
Changed switch, new from Jaguar Land Rover, but still not working will check power to loom on my next
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I’ve had the same problem and through this thread was able to fix. Great advice on how to get the switch out. Was able to see the small red button which worked when pressed so knew it was just corrosion on the metal plate etc which I was able to clean up and put back together with some blue tac for good measure which also might help keep the water at bay. Thank you everyone- this thread saved me money and time.