Just wondering what sort of mileage people are having to replace rear shocks on their early L320. I have a 2006 that has just cleared 90k and the rear end started to jump about around about the 80/85k mark. Its now at the point whereon occasions it’s scary at speed (certainly possible to lose control). Two new rear units on order for when I get back off this work trip.

My old TDV8 was on its original dampers (not shocks, please!) all round when I sold it at 175k miles.

I'd suspect bushes before dampers. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Had to change mine at 73,000 miles. Had all sorts of problems for ages with irregular front tyre wear and eventually the replacement of the rear shock absorbers has cured it. However your symptoms are not the same as mine as I didn't get any rear end wander. It has always been a pig to keep in a straight line requiring continual correction but there was a significant improvement after the dampers were renewed. Robin
2008 Range Rover Sport TDV8
Gone:
Jaguar S-Type V8 4.2 Sport
MGZTT 190 2.5

Albeit a later 2012 model no issues at 94k. Straight as a die at speed.

My current 2012 has 83k on it and runs true also. It does feel like it needs new lower arm bushes, however, and/or front ARB bushes. Definite knock developing on rough roads. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

I replaced both front lower wishbones myself last autumn and had 4 wheel alignment done, as I had knocking from both sides. When I had the alignment done at the Indy specialist, they checked all the bushes etc prior to carrying out the alignment and said all was good (no point doing the alignment with worn bushes after all). This is leading me to suspect the rear shock absorbers. At the end of the day, their job is to absorb the shocks coming up through the suspension and keep the tyre in contact with the road. That doesn't seem to be happening.

Well, I fitted new rear suspension units a few days ago now, and.................my god what a difference. The ride is back to how it was when I got the car, it remains on the road without hop skipping and jumping about. I always felt like it was the drivers side that was the worst. I did that one first and there was zero resistance in the damper. The passenger side was still fairly good. So, now that's all sorted, it's only a matter of time before the next thing to change/repair will crop up

A good result. It's nice when you finally sort an issue and can notice the result from the driver's seat.  2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

gary3306 wrote:

Well, I fitted new rear suspension units a few days ago now, and.................my god what a difference. The ride is back to how it was when I got the car, it remains on the road without hop skipping and jumping about. I always felt like it was the drivers side that was the worst. I did that one first and there was zero resistance in the damper. The passenger side was still fairly good. So, now that's all sorted, it's only a matter of time before the next thing to change/repair will crop up

 Robin
2008 Range Rover Sport TDV8
Gone:
Jaguar S-Type V8 4.2 Sport
MGZTT 190 2.5

gary3306 wrote:

Well, I fitted new rear suspension units a few days ago now, and.................my god what a difference. The ride is back to how it was when I got the car, it remains on the road without hop skipping and jumping about. I always felt like it was the drivers side that was the worst. I did that one first and there was zero resistance in the damper. The passenger side was still fairly good. So, now that's all sorted, it's only a matter of time before the next thing to change/repair will crop up

Drop the suspension to extended mode and raise the car up so the wheels and suspension hang free. Wheels of, then as you say, there are 3 nuts at the top (15mm). There is also the airline into the airbag to unscrew. You will get very slight air escape, nothing major. That’s a 12mm spanner. Be careful you don’t twist up the neoprene air tube. Then the lower mounting bolt is a 22mm and 24mm (IIRC correctly). Once that big bolt is removed, drop the unit down and tilt it out at the top to remove. Passenger side access at the top is a bit more limited but its still fairly straightforward. Once everything is back in and bolted up, slowly drop the car down until the wheels touch the ground, then start up and let the car lift itself. Once it has done so you can let it all the way down. Raise the vehicle to off road height, switch off and go to each wheel and have a listen for leaks.
Then enjoy the much improved ride and handling

So it is as straightforward as I imagined. Many thanks for that. I appreciate it. Sounds like 30 - 45 minutes per side (rather than the 2 hours per side specialists were quoting).

Does this fault appear on diagnostics? To your knowledge is this the only reason for this kind of bouncy ride?

It certainly isn’t 2 hours per side. Took me around 45 mins per side.

Worn shock absorbers won’t show up on diagnostics, but a bouncy ride will always be worn shocks. Obviously worn bushes will cause wayward handling and knocking/clunking, but a very bouncy ride is always the domain of worn dampers

Yep... makes perfect sense. I agree. When I thought about it a bit more I realise that it could only be the shocks because I'm not losing air; the system rises and falls on the button - and so this wouldn't show up on a diagnostic check.

Great. It was good to talk it though. Many Thanks.