Hello to all you learned fellows,
I have only been a RRS owner for a very short while,
and from the below you will see I am no technician, but,

Crankshaft Issues, (Breaking)
Oil Dilution,

I have been looking into both issues as I do like to know what potential problems
I may be heading towards, so with my 2012 SDV6 in the back of my mind I have
found that the oil dilution is a side effect of the direct injection common rail design,
not specific to land rover or specific engines..
A cold engine with un burnt fuel, the fuel can condensate and contaminate the thin layer of oil
on the cylinder wall, over time this continues to dilute the oil and reduce its viscosity,
causing metal to metal contact, with the main component not being protected properly is the
Crankshaft. so if you continue to run your car between services with this going on you
stand the chance of the Crankshaft eventually breaking/snapping..if you add into this
short trips and constant start stop you are basically killing the oil well before the next
service, so the indication that the oil level has gone up is a clear sign that the fuel
amount in the oil has increased to a harmful level.

So to stop this from harming the engine prematurely its advised that the oil is changed regularly
and at much shorter intervals than the suggested service intervals..3-6,000 miles or 3-6 months,
depending on your driving habits..

So how far from what is known am I with my thoughts??

Have I got it right or am I missing something.. ===========================================
2012 Range Rover Sport Autobiography 3.0 SDV6 8 speed Automatic
Indus Silver with Hockenheim premium two-tone leather Ebony/Lunar,

Although the RRS1 3.0L does have the possible issue on some vehicles with breaking/snapping the crankshaft, I didn't think they suffered from the oil dilution issue. However regular oil changes can never be a bad thing.


Cheers
Col

So is it certain models and certain years that suffer,
I thought the SDV6 was made out to be an oil dilution,
Crankshaft breaker, so surely it would be all SDV6's unless they changed something I haven't read about in the later models?? ===========================================
2012 Range Rover Sport Autobiography 3.0 SDV6 8 speed Automatic
Indus Silver with Hockenheim premium two-tone leather Ebony/Lunar,

I think it is just pot luck with the crankshaft breaking, as I believe L/R said the cured the issue with the RRS2 but obviously they haven't or at least not in earlier one's.

Cheers
Col

I have never heard of oil dilution on RRS 1 SDV6 or on Discovery 4s. 2003 BMW M5 - 5 Litres of V8 Optimax Slurping Goodness in Carbon Black

2013 SDV6 HSE Black Edition- Orkney Grey with Ebony & Ivory. LR Facelift RAI, Genuine G4 Expedition Rack, 4x Warn SBD-160 Spotlights, Warn 9.5XPS Winch, Mantec Underbody Protection and Sump Guard, Full Easy Lift Suspension Module, LR Light Guards, Light Force HTX230 Hybrid spotlights, 18” Compomotive PD1881 on 265/65/18 BF Goodrich KO2, ARB fridge, TuffTrek awning 😎

The oil dilution problem isn't to do with cold starting, it's to do with the way the DPF is regenerated. Slightly excess fuel is injected in to the engine to "burn off" the crud in the DPF. This is fine if done now and then when the filter needs it. The problem is that so-called "partial regeneration cycles" occur where the DPF isn't cleared out and the system tries to regenerate it next time the engine is running. So the engine has quite a lot of excess fuel pumped through it over time and this dilutes the oil.


The cause of the early service indicator appears to be a software / calibration issue with particular models. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

On some of the jap pickups they have an X stamped on the dip stick about an inch to 2 inches above the max mark. In the owners man it says to change the oil when this mark is reached
Land Rover`s answer was to remove the dipstick  2008 G4 RRSport TDV8 current
2009 TDCi 90 current
2018 Discovery 5 HSE lux current
1994 Dakar current

I know a few people blame DPF / oil dilution for cranks snapping, but

1) Cranks snapped on these before DPFs were fitted
2) A crank should not snap anyway with poor oil