This had annoyed me on my 2012 MY for some time but it is relatively easy to fix.

The sub is located in the tailgate. You need to remove the whole plastic trim beneath the window and try not to break any of the clips in doing so.

This gives access to the sub which unscrews easily. Take it out. You can see why the rattle happens as JLR basically didn't bother to fit any dampening, the cheap .

Halfords sell sound deadening rolls for £20. Yellow packet and the material is aluminium faced with thick semi bitminous sticky backing, is quite thick and sticky. I bought two because I wanted to be sure but one would maybe do. I fitted one in the sub cavity and then packed the remaining gap with a bath mat (good fit) before refitting sub and screwing in tight.

Used remaining sound deadening on exposed metalwork and inside of plastic trim before refitting trim (which is a pain and best done with a second pair of hands).

No more nasty rattles. Loud as you like and as much bass as you can handle. Farty rattles banished.

Thanks for the tip, I'll have to give this a try as the rattle just makes what is 'supposed to be' a premium sound system just sound so cheap. I've just turned the bass down.

I don't think I'm understanding what you used the bath mat for, do you mean you stuck the deadening material to the back of the cavity then jammed the mat in behind the subwoofer against the speaker and rear tailgate? Is it what's sorted it or will the deadening do?

Cheers

Dennis 13MY Range Rover Sport Autobiography SDV6 - mine
14MY Range Rover Evoque Dynamic SD4 Black Pack - wife's
99MY Defender 90 TD5, Soft Top Conversion - my toy, and bairns favourite

Yes, exactly that. The mat was large tufted from Matalan for a fiver. Helps to absorb rearward soundwaves. You could also use a bit of loft insulation. It may be fine without. Try without it first and keep trim off, it only takes 5 mins to spin out the sub and drop a mat in and then retighten. When you are happy just pop the trim back on.

I was just being very thorough to ensure no rattles by using deadening and a mat then slapping a pile more deadening on the bare metal visible before more on the back of the trim as the plastic trim itself is quite flexible.

Thanks, I'll give it a go

Dennis 13MY Range Rover Sport Autobiography SDV6 - mine
14MY Range Rover Evoque Dynamic SD4 Black Pack - wife's
99MY Defender 90 TD5, Soft Top Conversion - my toy, and bairns favourite

Nice one, next job for me. Been neglecting the RRS of late due to attention directed towards used motorhome purchase and a few issues it had.
Hopefully not the loss of death, but since the RRS was serviced back in January, nothing has gone wrong... nothing (miracles do happen!) but the sub does buzz a little, so will tackle this next

Father Jack wrote:

This had annoyed me on my 2012 MY for some time but it is relatively easy to fix.

The sub is located in the tailgate. You need to remove the whole plastic trim beneath the window and try not to break any of the clips in doing so.

This gives access to the sub which unscrews easily. Take it out. You can see why the rattle happens as JLR basically didn't bother to fit any dampening, the cheap .

Halfords sell sound deadening rolls for £20. Yellow packet and the material is aluminium faced with thick semi bitminous sticky backing, is quite thick and sticky. I bought two because I wanted to be sure but one would maybe do. I fitted one in the sub cavity and then packed the remaining gap with a bath mat (good fit) before refitting sub and screwing in tight.

Used remaining sound deadening on exposed metalwork and inside of plastic trim before refitting trim (which is a pain and best done with a second pair of hands).

No more nasty rattles. Loud as you like and as much bass as you can handle. Farty rattles banished.

Good stuff. Let me know how you both get on. I probably went a bit ott but a bit of dampening on the back of the plastic trim and bare metal, as well as behind the sub wont hurt. The plastic is quite flexible.

Have you got a pic of the finish on the job?

---------------

Not sure what you mean. The tail gate as finished looks exactly as before. Just take trim off, unscrew sub, apply deadening and matt if you will, screw back sub, use remaining deadening on bare metal and back of plastic, reassemble trim. You won't see any difference. You will hear it though.

Our 2005 RRSS has a subwoofer rattle too. Is it located in the same place? When I say rattle I mean the sound distorts..

It is in the same place as far as I know on all RRS 1 models. If you have the problem of not being able to have any volume or real bass give it a try. There is nothing wrong with the driver/speaker itself just the absence of proper dampening.

my RRS is going in to the audio shop again tomorrow.

First time they filled in the trim with sound deadening material as from outside there was crazy loud rattle but now the edges of the trim still generate a rattle on music with good bass and the rattle can be heard inside but when you press the trim from inside,rattle goes away

So now they are going to put something around the trim edges hopefully this will fix my issue

I've also misplaced the 2 screws for the trim, any ideas where I could get more. Not sure on size myself

also the window controller was replaced few weeks ago and now at times the seat memory buttons rattle aswell does the door card need to come off again? I think something may be in the way

Deadening the trim isn't enough of itself. The problem is exacerbated as there is nothing in the way of deadening or dampening behind the actual sub itself. My solution was dampening behind the driver, then on exposed metalwork that you see with trim removed, and on the back of the actual trim as it is low rent flexing plastic.

Cost me less than 50 quid diy. No rattles at all. Volume right up, bass and sub controls max and no issues. Detail in my earlier posts in this thread.