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Home > General > Which Diesel RRS To Buy - TDV8, TDV6 OR SDV6 |
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Col Member Since: 02 Sep 2012 Location: Hawkes Bay NZ Posts: 4968 |
I would go for the MEEEEE option personally.
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Sun Oct 14 2018 11:53pm |
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B9BS X Member Since: 19 Nov 2014 Location: Birmingham Posts: 420 |
That would be the best option
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Sun Oct 14 2018 11:59pm |
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Ady 555 Site Moderator Member Since: 12 Dec 2010 Location: Good old yorkshire Posts: 8738 |
Personally i wouldn't buy any of the above unless you have deep pockets for unexpected repairs which may be looming buying cars with no service history. All high milers so bills will be plenty. I'm sure TDV8 (member) will be along soon to give you a long list of repairs his old TDV8 has encounted in the past. |
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Mon Oct 15 2018 8:04am |
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RRSTDV8 Member Since: 12 Aug 2011 Location: Northamptonshire Posts: 8971 |
Out of those three, I'd have the TDV8 if only because it has history and has had the "big ticket" item done recently (the turbos).
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Mon Oct 15 2018 8:29am |
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Andy K Member Since: 18 Sep 2015 Location: GL Posts: 4940 |
there is no such thing as a bargin diesel RRS |
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Mon Oct 15 2018 11:02am |
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Father Jack Member Since: 16 Oct 2016 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 480 |
The SDV6 lag issue is noticeable albeit I wouldn't say criminal, and sortable via a remap. Otherwise generally agree. |
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Mon Oct 15 2018 7:46pm |
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B9BS X Member Since: 19 Nov 2014 Location: Birmingham Posts: 420 |
What kind of bhp would be achievable on the TDV8 with a remap from a reputable company and also is there anything else to look out for if going down the TDV8 option? RRS SUPERCHARGED, 22 INCH ALLOYS, JAVA BLACK, FULLY COLOUR CODED
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Mon Oct 15 2018 11:50pm |
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garrycol Member Since: 30 Nov 2010 Location: Canberra Posts: 1067 |
"What kind of bhp would be achievable on the TDV8 with a remap from a reputable company"
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Tue Oct 16 2018 2:59am |
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RRSTDV8 Member Since: 12 Aug 2011 Location: Northamptonshire Posts: 8971 |
They must vary then because mine is down right dangerous at times. One learns to drive around the problem, of course, but shouldn't have to. I've taken to driving in town using the paddles on approach to roundabouts etc. so that I know it's in the correct gear. I've noticed that the gearbox is very slow to change down at times - I guess that's a function of the engine torque map - resulting in small judders like the onset of a stall as it tries to lug at 1000rpm, three gears too high for the road speed. A bit more throttle and suddenly it changes down and leaps forward. I wonder if this is one of the reasons the engine suffers from crankshaft failures - it's often lugging at low rpm which won't be good for it. My guess is that's all in the cause of emissions testing. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders 2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed |
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Tue Oct 16 2018 11:29am |
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RRSTDV8 Member Since: 12 Aug 2011 Location: Northamptonshire Posts: 8971 |
Standard is 268bhp (from memory) and you should be able to get another 25bhp on top of that quite easily. I've seen people quoting over 300bhp. The gearbox has slightly different internals to handle the TDV8's extra grunt (the SC does too), and the TDV8 also runs stronger rear half shafts than standard. The rear shafts are the same as those fitted to vehicles with the locking rear diff, by the way. The driveline should be shunt free. If the vehicle has done lots of towing then you might notice some shunting. This could be a sign that the drive splines between gearbox and transfer box are worn. Make sure the transfer box shifts between high and low ranges. With the door open, listen as you select low range. You hear a slight click or two as it shifts. Drive it back and fore and then select high. Again, it should be quick and quiet in the change. You might not use low range but the same motor that drives the range change drives the centre diff locking mechanism - that might be useful in winter, for example, so it'd e nice to know it all works. Things to look for are the same as other RRSs generally - suspension bushes being the most noticeable. Check the hydraulic anti roll bars for leaks, the rear being more prone to leaking than the front one (presumably because it's exposed and also the rear has to deal with slightly more suspension articulation). The turbos have a reputation for failing but I think some of that is down to the driver not being sympathetic and letting it idle briefly before shutting down. Otherwise, check everything works. Then check it all again. Make sure the EPB works - it makes a sighing noise as it operates. Any screeching is a bad sign and needs to be sorted straight away to avoid failure. Probably needs an adjustment, otherwise the EPB shoes are probably shot and ready for changing. Then check everything works again. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders 2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed |
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Tue Oct 16 2018 11:51am |
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Tim in Scotland Member Since: 30 May 2005 Location: Driving along in my automobile Posts: 17476 |
There are plenty out there so go for one that is as close to the spec it left the factory with - especially be aware of non standard design/ size wheels and new unheard of Chinese brand tyres- check for the cast in LR oval on wheels and walk away from anything riding on wheels bigger than 20” as the car was never designed to run on bigger - plenty of people do fit bigger wheels but you don’t want to be buying another potential problem of worn out steering as well as suspension components from running wheels the car wasn’t Intended to have by LR. Check for damp front foot wells - can be sunroof drains if one is fitted or poor seals if a replacement windscreen has been fitted, also could be loose A pillar trim. One other thing I have seen some people caught out with - engine management lights covered with electricians tape or painted over to hide an illuminated light and also SRS airbag lights on. Cars of the age you are looking at will be coming round to time to replace airbag and seat belt pretensioning triggers. 2020 Pangea Green 1st Edition D240 New Defender 110 is here and loving it
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Tue Oct 16 2018 12:42pm |
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B9BS X Member Since: 19 Nov 2014 Location: Birmingham Posts: 420 |
Thanks for all the advice guys RRS SUPERCHARGED, 22 INCH ALLOYS, JAVA BLACK, FULLY COLOUR CODED
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Tue Oct 16 2018 11:29pm |
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Col Member Since: 02 Sep 2012 Location: Hawkes Bay NZ Posts: 4968 |
Not sure it's legal requirement to replace airbags after 10 years or so in any shape or form, this was just another money making exercise by the manufactures, which I don't think any one fell for, don't think they even recommend it now, they should last the life of the vehicle this day and age, if not I'm sure there are a awful lot of vehicles out there that require them changing, unless of course they were made by Takata. which fortunately I believe L/R's are not. Cheers Col |
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Wed Oct 17 2018 3:50am |
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Tyrefitter Member Since: 19 Jul 2015 Location: Bridlington East Yorkshire Posts: 3677 |
Another one is check ALL the light s come on as well as going off,plenty of folk remove the bulbs & it is now a mot failure as the lights have to come on then go off when started.I get guys coming into my place with engine management lights ect on & when I fail them on mot they say,,ow ok ill go take the bulb out then,but I do advise them that it will then fail again as the light has to come on then go back off again. Andy Andy. 21 Ford Ranger Gone but not forgotten Focus RS Red Edition 2015 RRS AB Fuji. 2014 RRS SC Santorini 2016 VW Amarok 2014 RRS AB Fuji 2012 RRS Red Edition Fuji 2015 Nissan Navara 2012 RRS SE Santorini 2008 RRS White 2007 RRS Santorino |
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Wed Oct 17 2018 7:05am |
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