Hi there guys so having a bit of a night mare and need some guidance.
Had my range Rover coming up to a year now and havent really had any majour problems until now.
So the past 3 months I have had an oil leak coming from the rear diff, I took it back to the garage I had purchased it from as I had 12month warranty. They had a look and changed some seals for me and said it was good to go. I picked it up took it home after a week or so I noticed it was leaking agian. Took it back to the garage they took it apart cleaned it out and sealed it back up and I once again took it home. 2 weeks had passed I noticed my drive had black spots all over it. Had a look underneath and the rear diff looked moist, wiped it down and took it for a drive came home checked it and it was leaking once again. So I took it back to the garage, they have told me warranty company won't pay for a replacement diff as it has corroded so they do not cover that and if I'm not happy to get in touch with the warranty company myself. the plug where the leak is coming from can not be bought on its own so I have been told. So there idea is to Weld the plug up and weld a nut to that so it can still be removed later on down the line for maintenance, this doesn't sit right with me but they have said they won't pay for a new diff. I will attach some photographs. If people could give me any advice/opinions what not be very much appreciated.
1. Can people tell me what the part is and does.
2. Where can I get a replacement?img]http://www.rrsport.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/25339/normal_IMG_20180913_161855.jpg[/img]











These three photos above are the most recent before I took it to the garage.
This photo below is when I first noticed the diff.

The photos aren't too clear where that leak is from. Are you saying it's from the drain Plug?
Try Advanced Factors for a replacement. If threads are worn, then there are other options for you. 2011 MY D4 HSE
Previously 2001 D2 TD5, 1996 D1 300Tdi, 1985 90 2.2 petrol.
Bikes! KTM, BMW, British, Classics and others.

From inside this hole, if it was a drain plug why would it be on top?

The orientation of the photos isn't clear.
Suggest you undo and take out the plug, then find a suitable replacement. It doesn't have to come from LR parts.. get the thread size and post back. 2011 MY D4 HSE
Previously 2001 D2 TD5, 1996 D1 300Tdi, 1985 90 2.2 petrol.
Bikes! KTM, BMW, British, Classics and others.

If it's a drain/fill plug, you need to check if the thread has been cross-threaded. If it is, can you not get a helicoil insert (screw threaded insert) put in as a permanent repair? Assuming people still do them. I would suggest that the supplying garage should be able to do for not a lot of cost to them.

Why does it look like that boss has had a repair around the outside of it? 2019 5.0 SC SVA (Current)
2012 5.0 SC AB. Sadly written off by a campervan
23 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

Yep.. see that now.
Looks like metal epoxy to me.
I've a thought that you have a botched thread under there, so suggest care if you try and take it out at home without helicoil skills. 2011 MY D4 HSE
Previously 2001 D2 TD5, 1996 D1 300Tdi, 1985 90 2.2 petrol.
Bikes! KTM, BMW, British, Classics and others.

What year RR Sport do you have? Looking for drain plugs... 2011 MY D4 HSE
Previously 2001 D2 TD5, 1996 D1 300Tdi, 1985 90 2.2 petrol.
Bikes! KTM, BMW, British, Classics and others.

JordLMW wrote:

From inside this hole, if it was a drain plug why would it be on top?

Scrap that, if that's on the side next to the rear prop shaft and you have the locking rear diff (you have a HST I see), then that is the location that should have had a damper mass attached to it. The damper mass is hexagonally shaped and I bet someone has tried to "open it", and sheared it off.

You can see the damper mass here as the big lump of hex facing forwards:



Short of a new diff I think you're just looking at a bdoge to fill the hole to stop the leak. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Thanks for the replies guys, yes it's a TDV8 HST 2008 model. I'm not happy at all to be honest. I believe it has just been bodged by the garage and that they are responsible for it but I'm not sure what to do. I think I'm going to take it to a landrover specialist and see if they can have a quick look and give an opinion. What's worrying is that this has all been diagnosed and repaired by a land Rover "Technician" from the stealership I bought it from.

I picked it up tonight from them after they have told me they have fixed it by welding the hole closed and attached a hex socket on top.

Any advice or opinions welcome, I feel like I did push them to be doing a proper job but all in vain.

Oh and to add I got told it holds a pin with a spring of some sort for the locking diff? Is this correct or am I being spun some more tripe.

Total tripe. The locking diff uses the motor on the top of the diff to make it lock. Short description: a motor rotates a pair of discs that have balls sat in ramps. The ramps cause the plates either side (that have the balls sandwiched between them) to move sideways. The sideways movement creates a force that pushes the locking plates in the diff together. The exact same system is used in the centre diff. The bit that would have fitted in the hole you have there is a tuned mass damper. It's entirely passive and has nothing to do to with the operation of the diff.

If they have welded the hole closed then they will have prevented further leaks. Other than that...

Whoever these guys are, they have no clue at all about the workings of the RRS.

Next time you visit them, take some carrots for their horses.... 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

It's not leaking from the ARC bar onto the diff casing, is it?