could anyone tell me if the rear timing belt on a 2012 3.0 rrs as to be timed up, I know on the 2.7 it's not

Thanks

Do a search on here and Disco3.co.uk but from memory, yes the 3.0 does have to be timed. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Yes it is timed and a pain the arse as a vacuum pipe now further restricts access due to it being routed directly infront of the cover.

It is timed, but no more difficult than a 2.7 belt

There is a locking tool to time the pump correctly

Thanks, if I remove the old one and replace it with the now one with out turning the engine over, would that be ok, as that's what I did when I replace the one on my 2.7 engine and it was ok.

As long as the marks line up

Sorry to tag on someone else's post not managed to start my own. Hi all a have a question I'm doing the rear belt on a rrs 3.0 having done the front. The crank/camshafts/fuel pump are all locked. Can I just fit the replacement belt ? Why would I need to line up the white lines on the belt with the line on the camshaft sprocket. I don't see any mark on the fuel pump drive.

what white lines are you talking about on the belt ? if its all locked in position just fit the new belt, if your useing the old belt it dosen't matter about any marks you put on it

Iggy wrote:

Sorry to tag on someone else's post not managed to start my own. Hi all a have a question I'm doing the rear belt on a rrs 3.0 having done the front. The crank/camshafts/fuel pump are all locked. Can I just fit the replacement belt ? Why would I need to line up the white lines on the belt with the line on the camshaft sprocket. I don't see any mark on the fuel pump drive.

In theory, it will be fine as long as everything is timed up.

The marks on the belt are there for correct alignment, to ensure the cam + pump are aligned

In practice, it takes no extra effort to align the marks, so may as well

Hi all I have the rear belt on ignoring the white lines on it. I am struggling to get my arm down the back to fit the tensioner before l lock the fuel pump getting the pin in that will be a mission in itself. I have disconnected the vacuum pipe at both ends at the back to make more room. I think I'm afraid of dropping it an it getting lodged down the back. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I have checked the wife's arms an there bigger than mine which is worrying.

Regarding the timing belt white lines I could line up with the camshaft sprocket. However I cannot for the life of me see any line or indent on the fuel pump drive. Am I missing something?

Have you removed the grill?
Also try sitting on the air box. They can take a lot of weight

Try not to cross thread it

And make sure the tag goes into the cut out

I put a string around the belt to keep tension

The job goes on an on. The rear belt is on as is the tensioner before pulling the pin. I fitted the fuel pump locking tool to the drive sprocket which was easy. But the pin will not locate in the hole in the engine I can turn the sprocket maybe 5mm each way before the tool touches the casing and I have tapered the end of the pin and it fits fine without the tool attached.
Any ideas would be appreciated.