Father Jack wrote:

Agree. Being mechanically sympathetic is always a good idea. Get it up to operating temp before booting it, that's under ten mins/5 miles for me in an SDV6, typically 1500 to 2000 rpm (typical shift points for the box anyway on a fairly normal commute), and if people aren't seeing it hit warmed up/gauge in the middle then they are probably not doing enough miles, definitely in a diesel and probably in a petrol too: frequent cold starts and not running at normal operating temp is not good for engines.

Agree also after a good thrash run in last mile or so lower revs eg 1500 to 2000 and/or idle for a minute at stop. Don't just pull up and switch off. Turbos do not like that. And you will not like the bill for replacing them as it is a body off job on certainly the RRS1, think circa 4k if you are lucky and have a good indy, 2 turbos is acparts bill alone of £2.5 to £3k alone.

This has stood me well over years of petrol and diesel cars, including Saabs and RRS.

Us old tech RRS1 drivers don't have that concern

However the SDV6 is the same engine so I would personally disable it if going on a decent journey with high engine loadings. Or slow down the last mile as referenced abovr. Don't just tank it down the motorway or cross country then immediately switch off is the key.

It hardly worked on my 2012 2.2d evoque anyway, is it any better on an RRS2 ?

I personally like the auto start/stop but a number of people on here would disagree. I would like to think that JLR have thought of this when they introduced the function to these engines.

My daily commute is no issue as its normally a fairly slow last couple of miles arriving at work or returning home. Currently driving:
MY 2015 RRS SDV6 Dynamic Fuji White
Mini Cooper S

Gone:
MY13 RR Evoque Dynamic Black
MY12 RRS SDV6 HSE Luxury Baltic Blue
2012 Land Rover Freelander2 2.2 TD4 XS Fuji White
2012 BMW 320d Sport Arctic White
2009 Mazda RX8 R3 Grey
2005 BMW 523i SE Grey

The Turbo having to run down after a fast run applies to first generation cars fitted with a turbo. Turbos spin so fast that the only "bearings" that can keep up are phosphor bronze coated with oil, the turbo effectively floats within its bearing with no metal to metal contact. The oil is fed under pressure to create the oil film. When the engine switches off the oil pressure disappears and the turbo risks high speed metal to metal contact if it has not spun down.

Modern cars (like the RRS) maintain the oil pressure to the turbo for a while after the engine switches off, ensuring the turbo is floating as it spins down, therefore there is no issue. There is a separate pump/pressure system to achieve this. it is one of the noises you can hear from under your bonnet after you have switched off. Therefore Stop/Start operation also has no effect. 2016 RRS 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography Dynamic in Montalcino Red and Stealth Kit

Great response mlines...thanks  Currently driving:
MY 2015 RRS SDV6 Dynamic Fuji White
Mini Cooper S

Gone:
MY13 RR Evoque Dynamic Black
MY12 RRS SDV6 HSE Luxury Baltic Blue
2012 Land Rover Freelander2 2.2 TD4 XS Fuji White
2012 BMW 320d Sport Arctic White
2009 Mazda RX8 R3 Grey
2005 BMW 523i SE Grey

Great answers here and yeah I was gonna ask about the stop/start as well ! So glad that's answered.

So long story short, if I accidently revved/accelerated for 10-15 seconds between 2000-3000rpm after the car had been running for at least 5 mins but probably wasn't up to temp (as indicated by the dash) - there's probably no harm to the engine as long as it isn't a regular occurrence?


Will have to take more care in the future, just if you're not paying attention in the SDV8 and keep gradually accelerating the box seems to settle on upshifting around the 2000-3000rpm range for me!

here are my findings after a quick trip around town:

1. At rest before startup, ambient 13C




2. After 5km around town, ambient 14C




3. After 10km around town, ambient 15C




4. Left the car for 2 hours, then drove 11km back home, ambient 20C





After 5km around town, coolant is up to 86C but oil is still at 36C, and only gets above 80C after another 5km. After another 11km, both the oil and coolant temps are almost the same.

So at around 20C ambient, it takes my car at least 10km to warm up. --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport Supercharged V8 HSE Dynamic



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ

Thats pretty nice to know so the onboard temp gauge is optimistic. Then again in town driving where you're sat around more maybe it heats up quicker? Not sure.

On looking today I revved between 2000-2600rpm after about 5/6mins of the engine running for about 10-12(ish) seconds whilst accelerating.

Do you think that would do any damage if you do it accidentally once every few months lets say?

10k to warm up is about right , that's about 6 or 7 miles/10 mins for me and, coincidentally and for all that people say the temp gauge is rubbish is, err, pretty much bang on when my sdv6 gauge hits the middle.

^ you must be the first ever LR owner who owns a vehicle with an accurate temperature gauge then  --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport Supercharged V8 HSE Dynamic



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ

DangerMouseUK wrote:

Thats pretty nice to know so the onboard temp gauge is optimistic. Then again in town driving where you're sat around more maybe it heats up quicker? Not sure.

On looking today I revved between 2000-2600rpm after about 5/6mins of the engine running for about 10-12(ish) seconds whilst accelerating.

Do you think that would do any damage if you do it accidentally once every few months lets say?

Anyone

^ doubtful, but best not to make a habit of it  --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport Supercharged V8 HSE Dynamic



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ

naks wrote:

^ you must be the first ever LR owner who owns a vehicle with an accurate temperature gauge then

To be fair, best not to make assumptions. I didn't claim it was accurate. Many cars aren't. I simply said that after around the same 10km or 6 miles you mentioned, that was the point at which mine edged to halfway.

Ask yourself if I have any special reason to lie ?

Hope that helps.

Good post by naks above which clearly highlights an engine isn’t properly warmed up when the water temp gauge hits its ‘normal’ position. My previous car was a Touareg which was blessed with an oil temp gauge (as well as the usual water temp gauge) it usually took a good 10-15 minutes after the water temp stopped climbing, for the oil temp to rise to around 70-80C

sorry buddy, I didn't mean to say you were lying, rather that LR's temp gauge is so bad that it's almost never accurate.

my apologies if I came across as such  --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport Supercharged V8 HSE Dynamic



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ