Have you disconnected, cleaned and reconnected all the connections between the battery and ground and battery and starter?

Do the same with as many earth connections are you can find; some near the battery and some under the front nearside wheelarch liner.

Check the transfer box and engine ECUs connector plugs for corrosion. This is a known problem area because it is poorly protected from water ingress. They are on top of each bother mounted on the bulkhead behind the battery. Have to remove the battery to get at them.

Some owners have actually opened up the ECU cases and dried and cleaned the PCBs with success at solving odd electrical gremlins. 2008 MY Java Black TDV8 HSE

done a few of your list except inner wheel arch cover, and battery to starter, will crack on with that sunday afternoon, behind battery ecu and plugs checked by last garage two weeks ago but will open up ecu and recheck I did all those about four weeks ago and everything was dry and clean. Thanks for your help again Paddi, mate with the( cheeky picture).

Hi, are you still having these problems

hi,yes I am still having all the problems, gonna have a go at things paddi said to do in a short while, thanks for asking,if you can help in any way,i would appreciate it.

Ok mate, I'm gonna see if I can copy and paste my fix from another site, it's pretty unreal but could help, can I ask if your car gets worse as the day/weather gets warmer/hotter

hi ,cant really say yet, and never thought it could be affected by weather,absolutely beautifull ride, especially with a knackered back but these problems boy it tries my patience.

This is my problem

Hope it helps picture in my gallery

Here is your image

Ok guys n gals, an update on my electrical issues for those
that know
Got in car this morning 4:3Oam~ car drove perfect~ no issues
whatsoever, got back in car at 12 midday to go to gym~ car
didn't crank first turn of key, cranked and started second
turn, set off for gym, car started its electrical meltdown
within 1 minute of starting, doors locking, hazards flashing,
car lean when cornering fault, no stereo, nav~ heaters~
heated seats, time(temp on dash etc, this happened the
whole way to the gym, about 6 miles, came out of gym 2
hours later, car would not crank at all~ tried for half hour~
disconnected battery for 15 mins, nothing, every fault up on
dash, adaptive lights, handbrake , hdc etc had to abandon it
and get picked up, but had a bit of a lightbulb moment, the
only thing that changed through the day was the heat, cold
at 4:3Oam, hot at midday but dash not in direct sunlight,
2:30 ish dash in direct sunlight and coooking, so went back
at 6:3Opm reconnected battery as couldn't stop hazards
flashing earlier even with keys out and car locked, car still
hot and throwing all the faults and not starting, took out
instruments cluster, took back off, electrics still really hot
inside , plugged back in with back off, still the same, stuck
an ice pack directly on the circuit board in the cluster, gave it
10 seconds and car started straight up, no faults whatsoever,
wedged cluster upside down in dash hole with back still off
and ice pack still in the circuit board, drove 8 miles home
with stereo, and heated seat on, didn't miss a beat, so new
instruments cluster needed 2023 P440e SE Dynamic on order -cancelled

2022 HSE Dynamic P400e

2017 Discovery 3.0 HSE Silicon Silver Nimbus interior and a few extra toys SOLD

2013 HSE Black, Orkney Grey, Ebony Seats and Ivory Interior SOLD

2006 HSE

Plus a few other cars inbetween!

Last edited by jimbg on Sun Apr 22 2018 5:03pm. Edited 1 time in total

when it first started with warning messages and everything lighting up like a Christmas tree,my backside went.then aa said don't be anxious to get it to the first indy specialist ,think and spend a few days finding websites and then make a decision of which way to g.,worked on my own cars all my life, had discoveries for years always done me own fixing but these ,man everything has a sensor, or module, " " but one thing I know it wont beat me",bit by bit,the last indy specialist couldent diagnose the fault said it was the plug under the back bumper, then head unit seven hour labour ,not a cat in hell all I wanted was a diagnostic report, I could have done the labour myself ,took jeep back and settled for hour labour ,maybe we can help each other out .when you said unreal I felt summat in tode water. I thank God for people on this forum else I would have a bill for at least a grand.

Thanks jimbg 👍👍
Well I put up with my car getting worse over about a month to the point it wouldn't start, I have checked every wire and connector there is to check, every where that these get water ingress has been checked, I've done brake bulbs, brake switch, battery and alternator checks, etc etc, and nothing was wrong until I clicked that my car had been getting worse as the weather warmed up and that particular day it did not start really sealed it for me that it was down to heat, as that was the hottest day in years or something of the like, so as things stand I need to get a new cluster fitted and programmed to my car, at this moment in time I have my cluster loose in the dash so I can take it out and put it in the fridge when at home or work, then I just plug it into the car, stick an ice pack on the circuit board and away I go, I spoke to a guy at autotronics and he thinks the pcb? Is knackered and as such isnt really reparable, so I am trying to find someone to codecs used cluster into my car

now then that's interesting,indy garage took instrument cluster out and tested it said it was fine i don't think when it was there they got it started ,so they wouldent have known about over heating did you replace the cluster yourself?,

I've not replaced it at all yet mate I'm still driving it with ice packs on the cluster lol, I've got a whole bag of ice packs I take with me

My local guy salmon will only fit and code a new cluster in, I want to find someone to code a used one in as I don't want to pay £550 for a cluster and £120+vat per hour if I can help it

now then, that's the reason I asked reprogramming a used cluster has to be done cos of mileage difference,have a look on e bay optical loop for range rover sport, which to me and my thinking because pcb is overheating which is sending false signals through your can link,as far as I know you can repair pcb boards but basically its just flat foil pressed on a board with diodes and resistors chips and other stuff but I don't think its the board it seems to me a diode or a resistor is heating and failing on the board anyway you could plug a optical loop in the can link and do away with ice pack fit your cluster back and wait till you can find someone to programme.loops are only a tenner.