Hi everyone,

So I bought my first RRS 2008 Overfinch three weeks ago. Drove it back from Milton Keynes and all fine, and for a few days afterwards, so had probably clocked around 250 miles. At the weekend it then went into limp mode - all the usual flashing lights, bells and whistles... power steering gone, suspension lowered, revving slower than a chav on a motorbike drinking White Lightning at a parade of shops.

Did a bit of investigative work and have read up on a number of potential causes. A day before I was going to book it in I had to limp it on a 30-mile drive and as I was going along everything reset - steering back, no lights flashing, everything back to normal.

Drove it around for a while, all fine, and then for the next four days - perfect.

Then last weekend, same problem again. A few short journeys haven't cleared it and it's now stuck in limp mode.

Had the diagnostics done today and has come back with:

- Lost communication to dynamic control module
- Fuel rail pressure too low
- Air suspension pump pressure when filling reservoir too slow
- ACE reservoir fluid was low, suspect ACE leak

All pretty depressing stuff; dealership I bought it from are receptive to helping.

HOWEVER, I'm wondering why it jumped back into life when I did that long...ish drive and stayed fine for the days that followed. Is it too simplistic to think this could be a low battery problem and the long drive got the generator powering it up, which then depleted itself again and hasn't had the chance to replenish with a few short journeys? Would a low battery have shown up on a diagnostic test? Am I clutching at a whole load of straws?

Anyone had anything similar? Thanks.

I believe low battery could cause it, but i would also get the alternator checked. do you have a multimeter or GAP diagnostic tool so you can check yourself?

Thanks for the reply.

I don't have either but will gladly pick one up if it helps. Problem is the car cleaned me out so I'm trying to diagnose as cost-effectively as possible. I've never had to delve under a bonnet before but am happy to - what can I find out from either of those that will serve me well?

I've ordered a new brake switch and can easily change that, it seems.

It's the not knowing that is the worst thing.

ok, get yourself a cheep multimeter for now and measure the battery voltage with both the engine running (alternator) and stopped (battery)

with the engine running you are looking for circa 14v the below link has a chart showing the state of the battery when the engine is stopped.

http://www.rrsport.co.uk/forum/topic50657....p;start=15

That's superb, thanks. Much appreciated - I'll get to it tomorrow.

Along with a possible battery charging issue, from experience I’d go along with the two faults pointing towards a suspension compressor problem and ACE fluid leak.
Get your possible battery and/or alternator problem checked first then have the fault codes cleared. Check the ACE fluid level which is the reservoir on the left as you’re looking into the engine bay (off side of the car) Top that up with the correct LR fluid if necessary and then check under the car for leaks around the front and rear sway bars.
Once your happy the faults are cleared, the battery is good and charging ok and the ACE system is secure, take it for a drive then check for new fault codes. Operate the suspension up and down to check no ‘normal height only’ alarms occur. If you get an alarm for the suspension, chances are the compressor is worn or has a cracked cap where the airlines connect.

Any problems should be dealt with by your selling dealer under the Consumer Rights Act. Info regarding your rights here...

https://www.which.co.uk/consumer-rights/re...rights-act

and here

https://www.which.co.uk/consumer-rights/ad...-my-rights

Thank you.

ACE fluid was topped up today and problem still persists.

I can't operate the suspension as it's stuck in limp mode and doesn't move up or down. I'd love some of the fault codes to clear but it's just displaying everything, but perhaps progress can be made with the battery.

It just baffles me that it corrected itself and was fine for a few days before resuming 'hopeless' mode?

Suggest buying an iid tool

Bit of an update here. I put the key in this morning and at first only two warning lights came up:

- engine emissions warning fault (amber)
- adaptive front lighting system (amber)

These remained until a few seconds after I pulled away when all the others came on, power steering went, full limp mode etc. This reminded me, when I went on the long...ish drive which took it out of limp mode completely, these two were the last two to clear.

Does this make any difference to a potential diagnosis?

Thanks,

Frustrated, of Hove.