Hi all,

I have decided to buy a RRS later this year; it will be my first. Looking to spend circa £12k. I know there will be differences of opinion but any advice on what to go for would be great.

It will be our only car (unless it gets too painful), I have a leased 48MPG Diesel modern car at the moment. I do have a motorcycle for decent weather commuting (too old to do the winters any more).

The plan is for a £12k spend in April/May. Car to have under 100k miles, as much service history as possible, warranty if possible. As well as the spend I intend to have a penny jar for repairs of a couple of grand and a few £hundred added to the jar each month (insurance, tax and fuel paid for separately). I intend to get it serviced at/soon after purchase with a new battery. I am in Loughborough and there seem to be a couple of reasonable indie servicing places locally.

I travel 10k miles per year and don't expect to get many miles to the gallon. I am looking for reliability/spec mix.

If you would give me some pointers as to what model I should be looking for please, I would be grateful.

Thanks.

TDV8 is maybe your best bet does not snap cranks but has some issues with turbo's split manifolds but maybe less expensive than if the crank goes on a TDV6 or a supercharged which does between 9 and 18 mpg depends on what you want and what you can get at the time you purchase but below 100.000 will be one of the hard part's

There's one on the forum have a look to see looks nice

http://www.rrsport.co.uk/forum/topic49667.html

Thanks for the reply . The one for sale does look great but I am not looking to buy until April due to the balance of my existing car lease meaning that I would have to still pay for the lease car while it sat on my drive.

Thanks for the suggestions. TDV8 does sound good and I could also live with an average 18MPG - not sure about the single figure MPG though!

All thoughts welcome. Cheers.

TDV8 will do more than that but my supercharged wont lucky to get 18 usually closer to 11-12 as the sound and the power are awesome

Quote:

the sound and the power are awesome...

That is just teasing

Hi and welcome

Take your time read up on here and D3 go and see Now, as many as are local to you, you will start to spot Bad ones And maybe spot a good one or two
It's easy to drop £2k on some preventative, catch up, maintenance
Don't think you will get into a Good 3.0tdv6 (2010) so either last of the 2.7tdv6 or an early 2.7tdv6

Buy one with Good Recent history rather than one with good early history and nowt done for last few years, maybe time for spending on it again?

 Porsche Cayenne 2022
gone Porsche Cayenne 2020
gone Corris Grey HSE Dynamic 2016
gone Ipanema HSE lux 2010
gone Rimini HSE 2005
!!

|If you can find a well looked after TDV8 you should go for that i had the TDV6 and even with a remap up to 235 bhp it still felt under powered a bit but at 270 bhp in the TDV8 they are well worth it and they dont snap cranks unlike the TDV6 but have a few problems of there own but all these problems are not happening every day so dont be put off

Try both and see what you think

Cranks on Sdv6 not so much Tdv6 ? Cooked turbos on tdv8 and there not cheap either
does not seem to be a problem on FFRR more so on RRS tighter engine bay?

But they ALL want maintenance and you never know what's on the horizon

Try a few, take a punt and enjoy  Porsche Cayenne 2022
gone Porsche Cayenne 2020
gone Corris Grey HSE Dynamic 2016
gone Ipanema HSE lux 2010
gone Rimini HSE 2005
!!

Don't really think you will get a SDV6 at 10K may need a bit more dosh as i was once told the V6 is just a V8 with 2 cylinders cut off as the owners did not want to pay the bill for designing a new engine and hence some of the problems but may have been told porkies

Tdv8 is fantastic,I test drove a tdv6 and was very underwhelmed - turns out the 0-60 is about 12s! The tdv8 feels like the right motor for the car (unless you can afford 12mpg). I get between 21 and 31mpg from my tdv8 depending on the sort of driving, running around its usually about 22/23 and on a run its 26/27, 31 is the best I've had, lots of motorway at 50mph.

Reliability is all about maintenance and how it's used. I'd rather take a 120k car that has sat on the motorway than a 50k car that's done 4 miles to and from school, twice a day.

riverblanche wrote:

Cooked turbos on tdv8 and there not cheap either
does not seem to be a problem on FFRR more so on RRS tighter engine bay?

Indeed so. The V8 is a 90 degree block (60deg for the V6) so the turbos are mounted lower than would be ideal because of a lack of space. LR use a pump to pump oil away from the turbos. Seems that if the turbos aren't allowed to cool with the engine idling for a minute or two, the oil burns and eventually blocks the pipework. This causes the oil seal in the turbo to fail. Regular oil changes using good oil and allowing the turbos to cool and spin down seems to be key to long turbo life.  2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Thanks everyone for replying. As much as the Tinterweb can be dodgy, there are some fantastic uses for it and being able to pick peoples brains and listen to their experience are just a couple of those fantastic uses. Thank you and some comments based on your comments:

riverblanche wrote:

Hi and welcome
..It's easy to drop £2k on some preventative, catch up, maintenance
Don't think you will get into a Good 3.0tdv6 (2010) so either last of the 2.7tdv6 or an early 2.7tdv6
Buy one with Good Recent history rather than one with good early history and nowt done for last few years, maybe time for spending on it again?

Thanks for this. The plan was to get a decent one and spend a few quid on a good service and battery. I get the comment about the recent service and intend to check the MOT history online.

geoffsnook wrote:

|If you can find a well looked after TDV8 you should go for that i had the TDV6 and even with a remap up to 235 bhp it still felt under powered a bit but at 270 bhp in the TDV8 they are well worth it and they dont snap cranks unlike the TDV6 but have a few problems of there own but all these problems are not happening every day so dont be put off

A V8 sounds good, the last V8 I had was a SD1

riverblanche wrote:

……..Cranks on Sdv6 not so much Tdv6 ? Cooked turbos on tdv8 and there not cheap either does not seem to be a problem on FFRR more so on RRS tighter engine bay?
But they ALL want maintenance and you never know what's on the horizon……..

Note to self – check the difference between a SDV and TDV. I don’t really want a FF so that option is out.
As for never knowing what is on the horizon, I have a Grand C4 lease car. It has been in the dealers about a dozen times. The only difference is I didn’t have to pay the bills I do own a Ducati so I am regularly worried

geoffsnook wrote:

Don't really think you will get a SDV6 at 10K may need a bit more dosh as i was once told the V6 is just a V8 with 2 cylinders cut off as the owners did not want to pay the bill for designing a new engine and hence some of the problems but may have been told porkies

d-9 wrote:

Tdv8 is fantastic,I test drove a tdv6 and was very underwhelmed - turns out the 0-60 is about 12s! The tdv8 feels like the right motor for the car (unless you can afford 12mpg). I get between 21 and 31mpg from my tdv8 depending on the sort of driving, running around its usually about 22/23 and on a run its 26/27, 31 is the best I've had, lots of motorway at 50mph.

Reliability is all about maintenance and how it's used. I'd rather take a 120k car that has sat on the motorway than a 50k car that's done 4 miles to and from school, twice a day.

RRSTDV8 wrote:

riverblanche wrote:

Cooked turbos on tdv8 and there not cheap either
does not seem to be a problem on FFRR more so on RRS tighter engine bay?

Indeed so. The V8 is a 90 degree block (60deg for the V6) so the turbos are mounted lower than would be ideal because of a lack of space. LR use a pump to pump oil away from the turbos. Seems that if the turbos aren't allowed to cool with the engine idling for a minute or two, the oil burns and eventually blocks the pipework. This causes the oil seal in the turbo to fail. Regular oil changes using good oil and allowing the turbos to cool and spin down seems to be key to long turbo life.