Hi everyone, I am looking to get back into a LR and the RRS is looking very attractive.
The question is whether to go for a 2009/2010 3lrt tdv6 HSE, or save a few grand and buy a 2009 2.7 tdv6. I really like the interior/engine improvements of the 3.ltr, but the money saved by buying the 2.7 could be put away for the inevitable repairs.
Both should have had the belts done by now, and I am aware that how it's been looked after will largely dictate how reliable it is likely to be.
Having run a D3 for 6 years, I am reasonably familiar with the 2.7 engine, but the 3.0 is a bit of an unknown to me. I have seen that the secondary turbo oil pipe needs to be done to prevent smoking, and the rear belt is timed, but is there anything else I need to be aware of?
I'm not a big fan of DPF's, when were they introduced on this engine, and how can you tell if one is fitted.
The plan is to buy one under 80,000 miles so would it be recommended to have a gearbox oil change done?
Having had a D2 with ACE, I am a bit wary of Dynamic Response, which I understand is similar, and has issues with expensive leaks. Was this a standard fitment on the HSE's? My understanding is that you can tell if it's DR equipped by a yellow topped reservoir at the F/N/S of the engine bay, is this correct?
I have read various posts on here about buying one of these cars, but all advise is welcome.
It's going to a trader purchase as I have a P/X, plus Consumer Rights Act.
Thanks,
Chris.

No body gone from a 2.7 to a 3.0ltr?

3.0ltr is a more reliable engine, faster accelerating and more economical than the TDv6. When I upgraded from a TDv6 I went to a TDv8 as there was no 3.0ltr in 2007. My current RRS has the 306BHP 3.0lit and that motor is a cracker, doesn't have the throatiness of the V8 but is just as smooth and a lot more economical, but that version only came with 2015MY. 2020 Pangea Green 1st Edition D240 New Defender 110 is here and loving it
2018 Melting Silver Mini Countryman PHEV - soon to be replaced
2015MY Corris Grey SDv6 HSE Dynamic, the best car I have ever owned, totally reliable only a cou0le of rattles in 3 years, now no longer in my care
Also in my garage is a 1996 TDi300 Defender 90 County HT made into a fake CSW

I've just purchased our first RRS 2.7, again no 3.0 available but my car was too good to miss. I do 64 miles per day and I'm getting 29/30 mpg going no faster than 70 on the A303. I'm thinking of a remap but for the benefits of further decreased fuel consumption but the extra torque I'm sure would be nice. We're off to France next week in it so will get a long run so expect better fuel mileage. I showed it to a guy in work who is a L/R nut and ex-mechanic, he said I've done very well and the 2.7 has good power although can be a bit thirsty.

Steve.

Thanks guys, I have a fairly long check list and want the best possible example. Although I like the face-lift, I need to keep my mind open to a nice 2.7.

Hi Chris
I had your choice a couple of years ago and went for the 3.0 lump in an October 2009 car (MY2010) with 79k on the clock from Landrover Nottingham and haven't regretted it at all. I nearly went for a Supercharged V8 First edition but head said go diesel and as new as possible.
Only warranty claim in the first two years of ownership was the oil pipe you already mentioned and I have just taken out an extra LR Warranty for another year at £750 (that's transferable if I sold) and the cars now sitting on 93k. Belts were all done last October at 7 years old that is important to have done and I also had all the brakes & discs replaced to.
I'd go 3.0l if you can and the newer the better - good luck in the search.
Pete (Ipswich)

Hi Pete, thanks for that. Yes I would expect to have to replace brakes etc, and I have been looking into a warranty to take over from what the dealer supplies as well.
BTW has yours got a DPF, if so, how can you tell?

having had both, the 3 litre is miles ahead in terms of performance, easier and safer to overtake
on normal roads, accelerates without having to hoof the pedal to the metal.. i would go for the
3 litre over the 2.7, also take into account a far better interior / finish on the facelift Another Pommie Bar Steward down under

MY20 Defender 110 SE P400 Eiger/Ebony
MY10 3.0 RRS TDv6 Fuji/Ebony/Anigre

Is it the 3 litre that is snapping cranks ? I know the 2.7 had issues with a a bad batch of oil pumps but at least that can be negated by changing the oil pump ? Nanocom Evo

Well, went and looked at a few today. The face-lift interior is miles ahead and it drives really nicely.
I think the cranks, certainly on the 2.7 were due to bearing shells rotating and obstructing the oilways, the oil pump casing failure was a specific VIN range issue AFAIK.

It is the 3.0ltr that suffered the bearing shell issue IIRC 2020 Pangea Green 1st Edition D240 New Defender 110 is here and loving it
2018 Melting Silver Mini Countryman PHEV - soon to be replaced
2015MY Corris Grey SDv6 HSE Dynamic, the best car I have ever owned, totally reliable only a cou0le of rattles in 3 years, now no longer in my care
Also in my garage is a 1996 TDi300 Defender 90 County HT made into a fake CSW

I think that the 2.7's did as well,certainly in the D3.
Just seen something about cracked inlet manifolds, is this just a MY11 issue, or are all 3.0ltr units at risk?
I really shouldn't have joined here

all of the V6 diesels are snapping cranks  --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport Supercharged V8 HSE Dynamic



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ

Oldandconfused wrote:

No body gone from a 2.7 to a 3.0ltr?