I wondered if anyone could help me. I've owned my rrs 4.2 SC for about a month. When upon starting and driving all warning lights flash up and says "hdc fault, transmission fault, parking brake fault and lowered suspension". It doesn't do this all the time. When it does happen it is usually within 2 minutes of starting the car and then sometimes once I've switched it off and restarted it it drives fine and no warning lights. Occasionally it takes 2 attempts of switching the car off and starting but it will always then drive with no problem. I do have an suspension airbag light on which is the rear passenger side that needs changing and I do have a parking brake fault which screeches loudly. I have changed the brake switch as everyone seems to recommend but still no joy. My rear driver's light does have a crack and is wet inside but lights work fine. My tailgate upper doesn't open and I have had the switch out and it is heavily corroded. I was hoping someone might be able to point me in the right direction of sorting the faults out in the title. Thanks

Can you read what faults it has as we would be searching in the dark as you say you have a cracked rear light which may let water in to electrics and cause those fault you may have a knackered battery which will also give those faults or you could indeed have a suspension issue we will not know without the codes

Hi. I have had it plugged in and the only code coming up is u0133 which if I remember correctly is which is dynamic control module. The engine light has come in a couple of times for that but never when the car does the faults I have said . I was wondering if I should maybe buy a new light cluster just to eliminate that. The brake bulb was very faint when on but I took the brake bulb out and cleaned it up as it was corroded on the bulb and the car but once cleaned up the bulb was bright again. Thanks

Welcome to the forum Nico
A lot of those errors on the screen can be down to two things - blown tail light lamp (I appreciate that you have found and fixed one but check them all carefully) and a dying battery so before you start forking out for extra diagnostics check that all of your tail lights are all working fine, that your battery is holding charge OK and alternator is working properly.
Uppertailgate release - that is a common failure and IIRC you will find a how to type post for replacing the entire mechanism - on my last RRS (TDv8) it happened within the warranty period so I had it replaced by LR, but it can be done DIY if you are up to it. 2020 Pangea Green 1st Edition D240 New Defender 110 is here and loving it
2018 Melting Silver Mini Countryman PHEV - soon to be replaced
2015MY Corris Grey SDv6 HSE Dynamic, the best car I have ever owned, totally reliable only a cou0le of rattles in 3 years, now no longer in my care
Also in my garage is a 1996 TDi300 Defender 90 County HT made into a fake CSW

Last edited by Tim in Scotland on Sat Jun 10 2017 6:39pm. Edited 1 time in total

Ok brilliant. I'm going to buy a new back light so there's no wetness inside and new wiring. It has got a battery that is a year old on it but I will check both battery and alternator asap. Thanks for your help and as soon as I have done these I will put an update on here which I'm hoping will be good news. Thanks

I just added a bit more for the upper tailgate - if you use the forum search function you will find lots of posts about it. Ahh your one year old battery may be the root of all problems if it is a cheap one - check that it is the right capacity for the car as they are heavy users and put a big load on batteries. 2020 Pangea Green 1st Edition D240 New Defender 110 is here and loving it
2018 Melting Silver Mini Countryman PHEV - soon to be replaced
2015MY Corris Grey SDv6 HSE Dynamic, the best car I have ever owned, totally reliable only a cou0le of rattles in 3 years, now no longer in my care
Also in my garage is a 1996 TDi300 Defender 90 County HT made into a fake CSW

I will definitely check the battery as I used to own Chrysler grand voyager and I literally got through a battery once a year but with it being under warranty I've never had to pay for it. Could you tell me what volts it should be after sitting over night and also then once running as I can check it tomorrow. Really appreciate you help. 1st time I've owned a range rover so any help is appreciated. Thanks

Hi again. I have checked my battery this morning after being stood over night and it read 12.02 volts. Upon starting the car it went up to 14.3 volts. I wondered if you could tell me if that is normal. Thanks

Oh and the battery is a Lucas with 95ah and 800cca.

U codes are normally just lost communication and there fore can be dismissed most of the time but your battery sounds a little small mine is 110ah and over 900 cca

Edit apparently petrol engines dont need as much power

Ok thanks. I've had a look and the Lucas battery is a cheaper choice at £74. I wondered if you no if the volt readings I took were low to what they should be. I have found a 105ah over 900cca for £90 which is a varta with 4 years warranty but would it be worth replacing do you think. Thanks

Have you changed your rear light yet as i would do that first and make sure everything around it is dry and corrosion free

I am picking some lights up tomorrow so will be fixed tomorrow. There is abit of corrosion where the bulb site as I cleaned it up the best I could but still there. I'll make sure I change them and see how that goes. I'm also getting a new upper tailgate switch tomorrow as the one on it is very corroded. Thanks

That switch corrosion is not uncommon. Changed mine a couple of years ago as it was starting to play up. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed