Hello all,

A friend has asked me to service her RR sport (SDV6 HSE 2993cc DIESEL) which has just ticked over 90k as she has bad experiences with garages she has used.

I am more used to German cars so with this in mind I wondered if I can have some tips or tricks?

I was going to do the following:

Change Oil
Change oil filter
Change air filter

Should I bother with:

Pollen filter?
Fuel filter?

Where is the best place to obtain OE parts? Dealer or Euro? GSF?
What oil spec does this engine take?
Is the oil sump easily accessible?

Many thanks for your help.

Hummm. What year is it? The advise below maybe for an older car.


Not an expert on that engine but:

Fuel filter every 2 years I think. So quite likely it needs one.

Oil is 5W30. fully synthetic.
C3 is needed if you have a DPF (or covers all bases)

This engine may have 2 sump plugs. Get a replacement or 2 as they have a rubber washer which wears/leaks easily.


An engine guard requires removal (heavy duty 1/2 drive tools recommended) This will take you longer that the change itself.

Transfer box every 75K miles so see if that's been done. LR fluid only.


Pollen filter is above glovebox and easy to inspect.

Thanks Andy.

It's a 2012 but I am not sure if it has a DPF.

How is the fuel filter to access?

There is a plastic cover under the gearbox which requires removal to get to the fuel filter


http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic156787.html

https://topix.landrover.jlrext.com/topix/c...e-mobile=1 Visitor from fullfatrr.com
* GONE. 2012 RR Sport HSE SDV6 Orkney Grey. Now being piloted by RRSTDV8
* GONE: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Full Fat. Amazing piece of kit.
* Current. 1974 Lightweight 2.25L petrol. Old skool
* GONE. Freelander GS TD4 Manual MY2013. Orkney Grey with privacy, cold and clearview packs, armrests (a must!) and a spoiler.
* GONE. Range Rover Classic '93 200Tdi Factory fit
* 1949 80" in family since 1975

No disrespect to you, but she has a £25k car and she isn't going to get a LR dealer to service it. No stamp in the book when it comes to sell, or maybe you have one. By your questions I'm assuming your not an independent garage or wouldn't need to be asking what type oil, as you'd look it up. Doesn't seem the most sensible choice for her in my opinion. 2012 RRS SDV6
2014 BMW 320d X-Drive Touring
1999 VW Polo stage rally car

Fair point, but if she intends to keep it another couple of years, its a good idea.

justanewbie wrote:

she has bad experiences with garages she has used.

I am more used to German cars

Still got to be sold at some point. If you were buying what is the first thing you'd be looking for. Stamps in the service book, well actually the online equivalent, but surely we're all the same in what we look for. 2012 RRS SDV6
2014 BMW 320d X-Drive Touring
1999 VW Polo stage rally car

RallyXS wrote:

No disrespect to you, but she has a £25k car and she isn't going to get a LR dealer to service it. No stamp in the book when it comes to sell, or maybe you have one. By your questions I'm assuming your not an independent garage or wouldn't need to be asking what type oil, as you'd look it up. Doesn't seem the most sensible choice for her in my opinion.

I have to agree  Visitor from fullfatrr.com
* GONE. 2012 RR Sport HSE SDV6 Orkney Grey. Now being piloted by RRSTDV8
* GONE: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Full Fat. Amazing piece of kit.
* Current. 1974 Lightweight 2.25L petrol. Old skool
* GONE. Freelander GS TD4 Manual MY2013. Orkney Grey with privacy, cold and clearview packs, armrests (a must!) and a spoiler.
* GONE. Range Rover Classic '93 200Tdi Factory fit
* 1949 80" in family since 1975

RallyXS wrote:

Still got to be sold at some point. If you were buying what is the first thing you'd be looking for. Stamps in the service book, well actually the online equivalent, but surely we're all the same in what we look for.

I agree with RallyXS. If you don't know the basics of an RRS, you really shouldn't touch it and point her to a reputable indie. At least she will get a stamp. Gone - 2008 Stornoway Grey RRS 2.7 TDV6
Gone - 2009 Buckingham Blue RRS 2.7 TDV6
Gone - 2010 Alaska White RRS 5.0 V8 Aspirated
Gone - 2017 Chawton White RRS 5.0 V8 Supercharged
Current - 2010 Java Black RRS 5.0 V8 Aspirated
Current- 2024 RRS P400 SE Dynamic

Guys, understand the concerns but I competent enough to do a service, considering I have just re-timed a BMW M62TU engine . In addition, her service book will be stamped (doesn't mean jack really) BUT it will be accompanied by OE parts receipts which will be dated.

If I were buying a RR Sport (or any car for that matter), relevant decent parts receipts are worth more than just a stamp and even better if they correspond to the date of the stamp and mileages fit in with MOT mileages and a clear HPI check.

In addition, by the time she sells it will be at least 6 years old and have 100k on the clock.

I do also have AutoData on another machine but I can't be asked starting it up so thought I'd come onto a forum like this where owners help each other out.

Everyone is trying to help you out but these cars can be funny beasts, hence why a lot of garages won't look at them. There are also a lot of sytems that are unique to this vehicle as well.

A service isn't really likely to cause any problems, but without being rude, your opening statement doesn't inspire confidence. I wouldn't feel the need to approach a forum for tips when servicing a vehicle, the process is the same regardless of make or model, be it a truck or a motorbike. The only difference is oil weight and quantity.

One thing I picked up is that you don't need a jack to change the oil, you put the vehicle into off-road height and this gives you enough room to get underneath with a bucket. But this would only apply if you don't have access to a ramp or pit

One thing no one mentioned is the oil filter. I assume its the same design as the 2.7 ?


1. You need a large socket to undo. ?

2. You need to fit the seal into the groove on the housing.

3. Most important, put filter on the car first, locate the filter nipple back into the hole on the car.
It's very important you do this, otherwise it can wreck the engine.

Put surround back on the tighten up till it stops. No need to tighten further.

Socast wrote:

the process is the same regardless of make or model, be it a truck or a motorbike. The only difference is oil weight and quantity.