Hello
since on Holiday in the South of France i found my auxilairy coolant pump was wired the wrong way round (running backwards). When climbing at 80mph I would get reduced engine power after a while.
So i purchased a new aux coolant pump PN; PEB500010 (£105 Delivered from a dealer)
I located the TSB LTB00041 (i would share but dont know how to insert an adobe file)
Remove the engine cover

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Thanks for the helpful guide, I replaced my pump this week end and found the following may be useful to others.

-Rather than try and disconnect pipes at the pump, which is fiddly, I disconnected pipes at the other ends (radiator and supercharger). Coolant loss was minimal and threading pipes through the maze of other pipes was easy.
-I removed the plastic cover between the oil pan cover and front passenger wheel, used trim clip pliers to pull out the center of the four plastic holders, then easily removed the plastic plugs and the plastic cover.
-I removed the pump from the underside of the engine bay and refitted from the top.

Finally, be very careful with the pipe returning to the supercharger, it runs fairly close to the serpentine belt, if the pump is located too low in the bracket, the belt could easily rub against the pipe and rupture it. 

"Roads ? Where we're going there are no roads." Back to the future.

why a new pump is needed? the only problem I see is the brushes worn wrong way, but they will put soon well seated as the rotor start to turn the right direction.

CUCO wrote:

why a new pump is needed? the only problem I see is the brushes worn wrong way, but they will put soon well seated as the rotor start to turn the right direction.

The TSB suggests replacing the pump iirc. Switching power might have worked, but a new pump isn't super-expensive, so job done right first time  

"Roads ? Where we're going there are no roads." Back to the future.

Hi guys, I'm new to the site and also new to RRS; I'm not new to cars/motorbikes though, so am keen to sort any easier to mid-ranged repair jobs myself. I have a (new to me) 2005 RRS S/C that recently showed the 'REDUCED PERFORMANCE' fault. This was after a short burst of very heavy driving. Power seemed fine initially when the warning appeared, and then actually did reduce. I have checked the internet for the possible cause of this and came across the auxiliary coolant pump issues. Surprise surprise, my car also falls within the published VIN range for the known reversed wiring problem. This would therefore need to be my first line of investigation.
Shepp, thanks very much for taking the time to produce this guide, I have found it very useful. My plan is to try the re-wire first and if the fault comes back I will buy a new auxiliary pump.
My question for anybody who has done the re-wire is this:- Is it not possible to access the offending pump wires a little bit higher up on the loom and just cut/swap them there? (thus negating the removal of the actual pump etc.)
I realise that the small loom/trunking would need to be split, and that the subsequent cropped connections would need to be sound, water-tight and properly insulated, but this would seem to be a quicker and simpler fix for just the re-wiring solution. Unless of course the loom feeding the plug/pump disappears downwards and away underneath the engine etc.
Any thoughts and tips on this would be greatly appreciated...
Regards
Steve J

You don't need to remove the pump to rewire it, you only need to remove the small plastic under tray on the passenger side to access the pump. I put mine in offroad and it took around 15 mins to do (not a lot of wire nor space).
To open the plastic shielding would be a big job, not only that but further down the line, if the pump does fail the chap who comes to replace the pump won't be able to see that the wiring has already been switched and may rewire it again.

Yeah fairplay I suppose regarding the loom attack theory if somebody else is working on it, although I was planning on doing the pump myself if it was shown to be on the blink following the wire job.
If its only dropping the plastic tray underneath, I will probably stick with the plug-mod fix then, and leave the wiring in tact.

Does anyone else have pictures of this job?
I’m getting the restricted performance and then cutting out when it’s really hot and won’t start till it’s cooled 😔.

Gonna have ago at switching the wiring over and do the pump if it’s easy enough.

Cheers

i dont have pics but i did it few months back. really easy job tbh.id remove the headlight then the pump is pretty much directly beneath that. you may need to get under the car to undo the wiring but other than that should be fine.